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Author Topic: Engine and parts help... mild road engine project  (Read 156529 times)
Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #180 on: January 10, 2011, 19:18:16 pm »

I've planned a W110 with 1.25:1 rockers, with HD single or dual valves springs ?
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Sander/DVK
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« Reply #181 on: January 10, 2011, 20:21:32 pm »

Single springs are fine. I would use the Berg or CB ones.
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #182 on: January 10, 2011, 21:53:52 pm »

With the extra lift of 1.25's I suggest using duals. If your heads aren't ported, you wont be taking advantage of the extra .060" anyway. Just keep it simple, single springs and 1.1 rockers.
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #183 on: January 10, 2011, 22:49:03 pm »

Thanks Sander and Zach.  Wink
Heads will have a little work done but not ported. 1.1 or 1.25 doesn't seem to change things a lot or worth machining the heads for dual springs. Undecided All dual springs need the heads to be machined ?
« Last Edit: January 10, 2011, 22:53:37 pm by Nico86 » Logged

Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #184 on: January 11, 2011, 00:29:15 am »

All dual springs need the heads to be machined ?

Yes. Keep it simple, 110, single HD's, and stock rockers Wink
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #185 on: January 11, 2011, 10:19:35 am »

nico, you might wanna give the porting a go following the bill fisher book or so.
there's a lot to be gained, and a lot to be missed if you don't.
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Diederick
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Jon
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« Reply #186 on: January 11, 2011, 10:49:59 am »

Dual or single springs means nothing, spring pressure does. If you can get the same pressure out of one you are fine. Using lightweight followers and/or push rods will also help the lifter get around that aggressive cam. 
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #187 on: January 11, 2011, 22:46:39 pm »

Thank you guys.  Wink

This cam-rockers-ratio-lift-spring-calculating thing is giving me headache  Tongue Cheesy
« Last Edit: January 11, 2011, 22:48:18 pm by Nico86 » Logged

Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #188 on: January 13, 2011, 19:51:18 pm »

Think I will maybe wait a few more weeks and have the big work on the heads done by someone who knows : porting, chambers and valve seats. But I will stay with stock size valves to keep it the more simple.

Then for the rockers it will be 1.1 with single springs or 1.25 if I can find matching single springs (or I'll have heads machined for duals as they will be worked)  Huh Huh
« Last Edit: January 13, 2011, 19:53:07 pm by Nico86 » Logged

Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #189 on: January 19, 2011, 21:01:36 pm »

I bought this today...  Cheesy




And this...

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Nico86
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #190 on: January 21, 2011, 18:17:21 pm »

A question about the 009 distributor and blue coil.

All the new parts I've found are from Brazil. Is it good to use the brazilian-made we can find new ? Or is it better to choose german parts ? There's also an Empi 009 but I know what to do with this...  Tongue

I was possibly thinking of getting a new brazilian blue coil and ask Glenn Ring for a german 009...
« Last Edit: January 21, 2011, 18:24:01 pm by Nico86 » Logged

Nico86
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #191 on: January 24, 2011, 11:47:26 am »

I'm wondering if I'll order a crank at DPR or not  Huh Huh It seems that having mine 8-dowelled and balanced  in France will cost more than a complete DPR one...
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volkskris
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« Reply #192 on: January 24, 2011, 16:32:30 pm »

your crank will need to get balanced with the flywheel anyway, DPR crank or not. still buying a DPR crank would be the better choice if you'd want to do an update on the engine later.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #193 on: January 24, 2011, 17:20:29 pm »

I think that is a very wise decision.
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fredy66
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« Reply #194 on: January 24, 2011, 21:40:08 pm »

ore just go for a 78 when you are at  it   Grin
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arabia slugs
Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #195 on: January 25, 2011, 02:59:18 am »

Yeah I could but not this time  Grin
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #196 on: January 25, 2011, 03:04:45 am »

78 would be a pain in the ass to build with A pistons. A 74 on the other hand would be quite easy... How does a 1904 sound? Wink
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #197 on: January 27, 2011, 13:37:13 pm »

I bought this today...  Cheesy





I received it today, and what I can say is don't buy this piece of cr** ! It's unstabilized even on a glass table, the tare is not precise and it only reads 0g, no 0,0g or 0,00g... Angry

Someone knows where can I find a good one ?  Huh
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j-f
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« Reply #198 on: January 27, 2011, 21:12:28 pm »

If you plan to use it to weight your pistons and rods, you don't need a more accurate reading than 1g. And to make things more simple, you can order your piston and rods already blue printed.
For your ignition, I think a good used original 009 (Jo Clifford have two for sale in the classifieds right) or a rebuild 019. Put an electronic ignition in it with a matching coil (>3Ohms primary resistance).
For the crank, a DPR is 280€ and a 4340 is 345€ from slideperformance for example. DPR are good stuff as they use a oem cranckshaft.And they are fully controlled..
A 4340 74mm is 349€ thought  Cheesy
Something I would say is to buy your parts locally. If you buy parts from everywhere and then ask a local shop to help you to build your engine, I think they will just told you to ask where you buy your parts .  Huh
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #199 on: January 27, 2011, 21:42:41 pm »

Thanks JF I will check that.  Wink I tried it today with some bolts and washers and I find it very unprecise.  Undecided

Something I would say is to buy your parts locally. If you buy parts from everywhere and then ask a local shop to help you to build your engine, I think they will just told you to ask where you buy your parts .  Huh

Well they don't really care were I get the parts from, because they usually work on Renault and Gordini's engine.  Wink
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Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #200 on: January 29, 2011, 19:02:57 pm »

Need help for the crank mounting kit, I know I'll need this : http://www.vwparts.net/111105223.html

But about this ?
http://www.vwparts.net/113105241A.html
http://www.vwparts.net/BP4000-72.html
http://www.vwparts.net/BP4034.html

Would be great to have the list of shims/gasket/gear for mounting the crank  Wink
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #201 on: January 29, 2011, 20:14:43 pm »


You don't need that. It's for a flanged crank/flywheel Wink
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #202 on: January 29, 2011, 21:18:22 pm »


Ok thanks  Wink I looked the technical guide so I need this :

http://www.vwparts.net/111105223.html + http://www.vwparts.net/113105241A.html + http://www.vwparts.net/BP4034.html + the pulley seal (or it's just for sand-seal pulley) ??

« Last Edit: January 29, 2011, 21:24:37 pm by Nico86 » Logged

Nico86
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Turnip engine.


« Reply #203 on: February 04, 2011, 23:57:05 pm »

A few more newbie/stupid questions  Grin

I'm starting ordering parts, here are the last things I need help with :

1. About copperheads gaskets, do I need it ? Are they included in the 1300/1600 engine gasket kit ? I see there are 0.040" and 0.060"...

2. To mount the crank in the case I need : bearings kit of course + brass gear + oil slinger + flywheel seal + this http://www.vwparts.net/BP4034.html  Huh No seal behind the crank pulley right ?

3. About the seals between cylinders and case (don't know the name in english) the one in the 1300/1600 engine gasket kit are ok ? Or I need other seals for the 90,5 cylinders ?

4. The correct Mahle 90,5 kit I need is the A forged piston-cyl. kit : http://www.vwparts.net/BP4576-16X.html ?
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bugnut68
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« Reply #204 on: February 05, 2011, 02:05:48 am »

Here's a little advice from my recent experiences in engine building: they sell two different gasket kits, one of which includes the main flywheel seal.  Get this one, as it will save you the aggravation of realizing you are lacking all the needed seals to seal up your short block.  Some outfits are selling just the gasket kits without the main seal so that you have to spend more money with them... weak, IMO.  Don't forget the cam plug, too! Grin
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qubek
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« Reply #205 on: February 05, 2011, 09:28:55 am »

..
« Last Edit: February 05, 2011, 09:30:44 am by qubek » Logged

I have repro BRMs and I'm proud! :]
Nico86
Hero Member
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #206 on: February 05, 2011, 16:14:21 pm »

Here's a little advice from my recent experiences in engine building: they sell two different gasket kits, one of which includes the main flywheel seal.  Get this one, as it will save you the aggravation of realizing you are lacking all the needed seals to seal up your short block.  Some outfits are selling just the gasket kits without the main seal so that you have to spend more money with them... weak, IMO.  Don't forget the cam plug, too! Grin

That's the kind of thing I don't want to happen : forget a little gasket or part in the middle of the building, then I'll have to order it and wait for days before it arrives.  Sad
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Nico86
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #207 on: February 06, 2011, 20:46:24 pm »



2. To mount the crank in the case I need : bearings kit of course + brass gear + oil slinger + flywheel seal + this http://www.vwparts.net/BP4034.html  Huh No seal behind the crank pulley right ?



Does this kit includes all the hardware I need to mount the crank :  http://shop.hoffmann-speedster.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=395_1732_1746&products_id=1149&language=us  ??


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Nico86
Hero Member
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Posts: 6354


Turnip engine.


« Reply #208 on: February 07, 2011, 18:59:15 pm »

A few more newbie/stupid questions  Grin

I'm starting ordering parts, here are the last things I need help with :

1. About copperheads gaskets, do I need it ? Are they included in the 1300/1600 engine gasket kit ? I see there are 0.040" and 0.060"...

2. To mount the crank in the case I need : bearings kit of course + brass gear + oil slinger + flywheel seal + this http://www.vwparts.net/BP4034.html  Huh No seal behind the crank pulley right ?

3. About the seals between cylinders and case (don't know the name in english) the one in the 1300/1600 engine gasket kit are ok ? Or I need other seals for the 90,5 cylinders ?

4. The correct Mahle 90,5 kit I need is the A forged piston-cyl. kit : http://www.vwparts.net/BP4576-16X.html ?

Up guys these are the last things I need to know, then I can start collecting parts.  Wink
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #209 on: February 07, 2011, 19:57:20 pm »

Yup, that should do it. You'll need a pulley bolt, and flywheel bolt as well, of course Wink
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
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