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Author Topic: Break-in period before racing?  (Read 5066 times)
bugnut68
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« on: April 27, 2011, 18:05:20 pm »

Just awaiting my carbs returning home before my 2017 will get installed in my '70 Bug, and I've got a question regarding break-in mileage before flogging it at the local 1/8 mile drag strip.  Is there any recommendation on how many miles to get on an engine that will be occasionally street driven and also bracket raced?  Should I wait until I get past the 500 mile mark before I go out and start railing on it at the track, or does it matter?

Engine isn't a terribly radical combo, but more of a beast than my last 1776 with 7.8:1 comp., Kadrons and Engle 100 cam... not sure if it matters much, but I was wondering what others recommended.  Thanks in advance!
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TexasTom
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12.58@106, 7.89@89 Texas Motorplex 10/18/09


« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2011, 18:17:56 pm »

I'm probably on the outer fringe on this, but once the cam is broken in, tune is set, valves readjusted and valvetrain confirmed, oil changed, etc ... it's ready to GO!
I give it one good test drive and that about it.
 Shocked
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Harry/FDK
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Every Rule Was Made To Break, Even Callook...


« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2011, 18:41:53 pm »

TT is right, but i would go for the 500 miles to have the rings set and maybe go synthetic. Just my 2 cnts.
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bugnut68
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« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2011, 18:59:24 pm »

I've gotten through cam break in, but that's it so far as I had to ship my carbs off to ACE in Utah to have them worked on.
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Bruce
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« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2011, 03:56:54 am »

Go straight to the track when you get the carbs back.
Rings don't seat optimally with light loading.  In other words, don't baby it for the first 500 miles.
You need lots of cylinder pressure to force the rings hard against the cylinders to generate a good seal.  Find a long steep grade on the highway near where you live.  Drive up in high gear with the most load you can give it.  When you get to the top, turn around and coast down.  Repeat.
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BeetleBug
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« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2011, 07:59:32 am »

Go straight to the track when you get the carbs back.
Rings don't seat optimally with light loading.  In other words, don't baby it for the first 500 miles.
You need lots of cylinder pressure to force the rings hard against the cylinders to generate a good seal.  Find a long steep grade on the highway near where you live.  Drive up in high gear with the most load you can give it.  When you get to the top, turn around and coast down.  Repeat.

Or do it the safe way and take you`re car to a rolling road/Dyna Packs. I still can not believe that so many use so much money on their engines but still do not consider taking them to a dyno shop to get the engine tuned correctly and the rings seated.
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
Jon
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12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008


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« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2011, 08:52:00 am »

Safe for who, the engine or the man?
It's about load, not speed
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BeetleBug
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Snabba grabben...


« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2011, 09:10:13 am »

Safe for who, the engine or the man?
It's about load, not speed

The man and others on the road.

If you want load you should definitely consider using a rolling road or dyna packs where you can apply as much load as you want. Not for the faint hearted though.

BB
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
Jon
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12,3@174km/t at Gardermoen 2008


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« Reply #8 on: April 28, 2011, 10:11:25 am »

And according to a skåning with Bosch dyno a definite no-no on a aircooled engine... 
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BeetleBug
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Snabba grabben...


« Reply #9 on: April 28, 2011, 10:28:32 am »

And according to a skåning with Bosch dyno a definite no-no on a aircooled engine... 

Well, as I said: not for the faint hearted.
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10.41 - 100ci - 1641ccm - 400hp
bugnut68
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« Reply #10 on: April 28, 2011, 17:01:56 pm »

No dynos nearby where I live... and for that matter, I'm somewhat limited on steep hills, lol.  Steepest grade to me is like 70 miles north of town.  Dyno Don once told me to get on a nice straight stretch of road and pull up from low speed (near lugging) in third gear and wind it out as high as I can get it and then back of the gas and let it coast down under compression.  I used that method on my 1776 to get the rings seated in, seemed to work with the Grant rings I had in there.  The road out to the airport/local drag strip is more than sufficient for this purpose, I think.

I appreciate the info, all, definitely good to know!
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ugly duckling
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« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2011, 07:33:31 am »

TXT NAILED IT . PEDAL TO DA METAL Grin Wink UD. 
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bugnut68
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« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2011, 23:09:27 pm »

TXT NAILED IT . PEDAL TO DA METAL Grin Wink UD. 

I can't even begin to say how greatly I anticipate that opportunity! Grin
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Fiatdude
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« Reply #13 on: May 01, 2011, 16:15:08 pm »

put it on boost and then your good to do Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
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bugnut68
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« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2011, 21:43:57 pm »

put it on boost and then your good to do Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin

It's taken me so long just to build a naturally aspirated stroker, I'll have to settle for now...Grin  Turbo is the next step down the road, as funds allow!  Wink
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