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Author Topic: Taylors '67  (Read 30951 times)
Taylor
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Posts: 577
« on: September 08, 2011, 00:17:29 am »
So I am in the process of clipping the rear of my '67 and need some help!!  What I have is a '67 clip all the way to the firewall and an NOS apron.  I cut the back of the car off and left about 8" of extra material so I can decide where to finish it off.  

What I need help on is deciding the best solution to mating the two together and maintaining the correct length.  How do I do this?
should I get it to within an inch or so and wrap the new one around and make my line? other than that idea I really don't know.  
Thanks, Taylor
« Last Edit: September 08, 2011, 00:19:16 am by Taylor » Logged
Bruce67
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« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2011, 02:11:59 am »
You have a pm. Cool
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Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #2 on: September 08, 2011, 02:39:26 am »
mail back at ya!
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Neil Davies
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« Reply #3 on: September 08, 2011, 11:29:27 am »
Taylor, I'd fix it on with Dzus fasteners so that you can get to the motor easily. I've got a couple of pics of the rear end of my old race car on my computer at home and they show how much access there is with the rear end removed. With the rear wings on you can only see two little cuts between the wing and the decklid opening. I'll dig out the pics when I go home.
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2007cc, 48IDFs, street car. 14.45@93 on pump fuel, treads, muffler and fanbelt. October 2017!
Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2012, 04:35:15 am »
Well, time for an update.  I ended up dragging my car down to John Palmer in CA and he took care of the clip job for me.  I am really happy with the result and the blend job on the paint.  I am not trying to build a show car here but John went over it very well and almost made me want to have him do up the whole thing.  Anyway, I got the new Rancho trans in to roll it around and drug out all my motor stuff to get it rolling again.  I will be updating this post more now that I got the fire again and am looking to be at classic this year (with car.)  

The motor is looking good now and should be on the dyno in a few weeks.  I am going to rewire the car due to the birds nest under the hood and hopefully be rolling by may.

Here are a few small pictures of the work John(piddler) did for me



EDIT: I attached the same pic twice. Here is the other one.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2012, 05:47:38 am by Taylor » Logged
Fritter
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Posts: 625
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2012, 05:17:01 am »
Wow, that looks fantastic.  John seems to do great work!  I would be severely motivated if that was my car also.  Thumbs up!
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Mike F.
'64 Indigo Blue sunroof Bug
Chris W
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« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2012, 06:13:23 am »
Looks killer!!
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Rick Meredith
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« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2012, 07:06:20 am »
Looks Great
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58vw
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« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2012, 03:30:29 am »
very nice
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Wired1
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« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2012, 05:39:37 am »
Good to see a panel guy who loves old cars, great job.
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gibber!
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« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2012, 05:51:11 am »
....so the rear valance isn't removable?
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« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2012, 08:17:50 am »
Look's Awwwwsome....!!!..Right on....!!
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54Kab
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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2012, 15:25:09 pm »

 - very nice.  Great Year / color combo too . . .    Cool
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cal-look 56
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« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2012, 18:47:29 pm »
Looks killer.  Very nice job
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Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2012, 00:41:40 am »
Update:

I ran into a small problem with the motor last week, it appears that the No.3 cylinder bore, in the case, is machined roughly .020-.025 closer to No.4 than it should be.  This wouldn't even be noticeable except that my pistons are unique in that the pin is only 2" so clearance is tight.  So i had to send the rods back to Pauter to be massaged by .025 on the flywheel side of each rod small end, to make sure they were all the same.  I got them back in record time and they did a great job (as usual) and now we are back on track.  I also sent my cylinders out to be finish honed and I should get those back by Mon.  Cylinder shims were ordered and the manifolds should be back shortly.  I am pushing to get the motor done and running by the end of the month or first week of April.  

Motor Specs:
80mm crank chevy journal
5.4" Pauter rods with Honda wrist pins
94mm CP dished pistons
044s ported by Anthony at Heads up
44x37 manley Ti valves with brass seats and psi springs
Pauter cam with .600 at valve
pauter 1.5 rollers
48 IDAs
« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 00:46:24 am by Taylor » Logged
Cornpanzer
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« Reply #15 on: March 17, 2012, 03:25:34 am »
Wow. Very cool Taylor.
What do those pistons weigh compared to a comparable Cima? What cylinders are you using?
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'67 Turbo Sedan
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Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #16 on: March 17, 2012, 05:54:09 am »
These are 286 grams and the pins are 64 Cheesy grams.  I just weighed a cima and my little crappy scale said 377grams for the piston  and 135grams for the pin. The rods I have are 500grams
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richie
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« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2012, 09:33:56 am »
hi taylor

glad you got someone to do the job well,looks like John did a really nice job there Smiley   look forward to seeing you using it and putting some passes on it with that engine,sounds like it will be quite a beast Shocked Cool

cheers richie
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Taylor
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« Reply #18 on: March 30, 2012, 01:50:40 am »
Working on the engine today!! My favorite part of any car.  But I forgot how much work it is, it seems it's screw together,  find issue,  take apart and repeat ...1,000 times. I swear the bearings are worn out before it ever runs. Anyway,  it's going rather smooth for a "ground up" build and I could/should have it running on the Dyno in 2the weeks.  I had some used C/E timing gears from my old motor but sourced a set of new magnums instead so now I have to reset cam timing.   My biggest dilemma right now is getting these Paired 1.5s under a decent cover. Any suggestions?

The list of things to do on my white boards getting shorter and next will be filing the rings, which I hate, and check piston to valve clearance again. Then its cut cylinder studs and glue it together.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2012, 01:56:22 am by Taylor » Logged
Ben67
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« Reply #19 on: March 30, 2012, 05:49:53 am »
looks good man   I see u got the package i sent ya...
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richie
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« Reply #20 on: March 30, 2012, 08:43:32 am »
nice Smiley   The scat stainless covers seem to offer the most clearance for big rockers

cheers richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #21 on: March 30, 2012, 09:55:59 am »
Ben, sure did!  thanks buddy, I'll be calling you.

Richie,  I have some SCATs but can a steel fitting be welded to stainless?  I'll get it sorted out soon.
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richie
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« Reply #22 on: March 30, 2012, 20:13:31 pm »
Yep no problem doing that,done alot,if you really want to waste money youy could get stainless weld on fittings!!!!!

cheers richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
John Palmer
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« Reply #23 on: April 07, 2012, 05:59:37 am »
Taylor, I just found this thread.

Glad your happy with my rear clip work, it was a fun project.  It was apparent that you looked "long and far" to find some "nice original" 1967 sheet metal.  That NOS apron, really made it a much easier repair, and to get everything to fit correctly.  Nothing like original parts when they are available.

Good luck on the machine work on your motor.  Remember, it's a big difference between a motor that was "just built", and one that "was assembled"! 

See ya at the Bug In, or for sure at The Classic.

John Palmer
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Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #24 on: May 03, 2012, 07:14:47 am »
Small Update,

Well, I got the motor done...
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 and running.... big step!    I drug it down to Head's Up Performance in CA for a dyno session.  I figured that being Bug-In weekend Roger would be busy but when I called he said bring it,  so I got there Thursday and had it on the dyno and running by the evening.  We did about 5, 3-4 min, break-in runs on Thursday night to get everything seated and left it there for the night.  On Friday, we did a few more break-in runs and 2 low load/rpm runs to make sure the rings sealed up.  After all that it was time to make some power pulls!  On the first run we pulled it to 6500 and it made 191hp  not bad I guess but I was a bit put off thinking what a piece!  Turns out I am retarded and had the timing north of 40*.  Rolled the distributor back to 30* and made a blast to 6500 again and it made 211hp (that is better!)  We did a few more and made a few jet changes to try and correct a lean spot in the middle and raised the timing to 32* and it made 213hpat 7000   and 200hp at 5700 which I was happy with.  I wasn't able to make as many changes as I would have liked to (still has 37 chokes in it) but due to my slow work and a small problem with a rocker stud that was all I could get.

P.S.  I like to dyno naked!! haha  without the fan shroud you can check for oil leaks.  Ill post more pictures when the tin is all painted.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2012, 08:18:25 am by Taylor » Logged
Fasterbrit
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« Reply #25 on: May 03, 2012, 07:44:56 am »
213 hp with only a 37mm choke is very impressive. Good work  Cool
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Fritter
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« Reply #26 on: May 03, 2012, 14:46:18 pm »
Seems like a winner, Taylor.  Nice job.  Grin
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Mike F.
'64 Indigo Blue sunroof Bug
Dano382
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« Reply #27 on: May 03, 2012, 17:13:47 pm »
Thats great power with 37mm chokes Shocked Why didn't you dyno and tune with bigger chokes Huh That thing will make 220 with those heads and 42 chokes.  Grin
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Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #28 on: May 03, 2012, 21:08:35 pm »
To Dano,

Since I am going to put this in my street car, I wanted to tune it with 37s.  I brough the 42s with me but ran out of time.  I am confidant that it would make more as the 37s ran out of steam.  I might trying to take it back and find out what it really has.
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Taylor
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Posts: 577
« Reply #29 on: May 05, 2012, 04:47:32 am »
I wanted to see how narrow this motor really is, compared to the car, so I stuck it in today with no tin.  It fits really easy!  but that just means I will have my work cut out trying to get all the tin to fit right.

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One good thing about it is I wont have much trouble adjusting the 48s  Grin

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I took some other shots to get a feel for it and I will have to do some work to make my old mufflers fit my new header...  I like their look though so they will stay!

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