Old Skool 1679cc Cal Look Engines - What Spec's???

[Neil Davies]

Don't think it is the same car. The one we talk about is a green 64.

I thought It was Anthracite Grey? But yes, definately a different car to the white '67.

[Rune]

Don't think it is the same car. The one we talk about is a green 64.

I thought It was Anthracite Grey? But yes, definately a different car to the white '67.

Oops, of course it is anthracite grey. My bad..

[Jesse/DVK]

Any progress or good old stories yet?

Found this vid on youtube.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/fXpt1EP9rzI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/fXpt1EP9rzI</a>

It says 123hp, and it sure sounds good!

While this topic is really about old skool and doing it yourself let's talk about the heads, how much can you do yourself as a newbie to tuning heads? Replacing the stock valves with bigger ones? What tools do you need to do this sort of stuff?

[Torben Alstrup]

Hello.
I´ll admit I have not read the entire topic closely. But before building "this" 1600 super street engine, you have to make up your mind if you will stay with the stock crank rods and pistons, or if you will go up a notch to CW crank and forged pistons.

In my experience stock pistons &  rings DO NOT like to come above 6000 rpm., nor does the crank, if you want some decent life out of the engine. That is why my own 100 hp 1600cc type 1, out of basically stock parts,  is designed to peak at 54- 5500 rpm and is limited to 5800 rpm. (Fed with dual 36 Dells or IDF.)

lets make another thing clear. It is NOT nescessary to install larger valves for the first 100 - 110 hp.  In fact you often get better overall power with stock or very close to stock valves. My set up, above, runs 37 X 33 mm valves in stock seats, topped off with small fast ports, to make a super nice torque curve.

If you are ready to drop in a CW crank & forged pistons, the next 20 hp are easy to find. Then it begins to get a little complicated, because we still want it to pull decent at lower rpms. I´d say that Maher´s receipe above is about what can be done if the car has to be usable in daily average traffic.

Last thing. We focus a lot on HP. On street engines I focus a lot on ABP (Average power band) - Something I´ve learned from the V8 guys. The essense is what good is super power at 7 grand, if it falls on it´s nose below 3 000 rpm. IMHO a very good point. And I try to stay close to that rule.
T

[Bewitched666]

Amen Torben

[Jesse/DVK]

This sunday i'm going to pick up an 1300AR engine (AS21 case) with dual port heads. I want to use it as a base for my first engine build. At CB the price of an 69mm and 74mm crank is the same. What are the dis- and advantages of going for the 74x88 combo instead of the 69x88mm engine?

[besserwisser]

Last fall I bought a old Gene Berg motor at Irwindale Drag Days. It was all apart and everything looked real nice. Its 88x69 counterwheight crank with nice ported std heads. A Berg sump and dcnf´s 42 Berg specials. The heads are semi -hemi cut so the compression rate is not that high. It has a Berg 110 cam dual springs and Porsche screws on the rockers. The original flywheel was to light for my taste so Im going with a standard weight flywheel 200mm but 6 volts. The case is a single relief 1500 case that I have linebored and tapped for fullflow. This will be my everyday get around car and I will keep you posted when I start it upp.

[axam48ida]

Getting back to the original post....I got a 1679 in my daily driver.
It's got about 75,000 miles on it. starting to smoke a little....but doesn't leak! anyway
the heads are mildly ported, berg/engle 110 single relief case, stock flywheel, 1 1/2 berg merged
header with heater boxes and a glass pack, 009, and 40idf's. It gets 26.5 and 30mpg depending on how I drive it.
I think I could get more out of it if I play with it more. but I like the power band.....able to cruise at 70-75 and still be have
throttle available to pass some one, enough pick up to get up go from a stop and I use it rain or shine,
and from 25 degrees to 110 degrees....260-275 miles everyday!!!   The one thing I should do when I refresh it is put a dog
house cooler on it. still have the old design shroud and cooler.
great combo!!!!

[fish]

Any of these 1679s actually get built?

[fluidjuice]

Okay ... reviving a very old thread (!) I'm on a 1679 right about now.

As41 (soon to be full-flowed)
69mm CB c'weighted crank
lightened flywheel
straight cuts
Scat H-beams
FK 42
Lube a lobe lifters
Thick walled 88s
Steve (Greg) Tims stage one heads 40x35 Ported with promo retainers & dual Hi Rev springs (approx 9:1 CR)
GBE 1.4:1 rockers
CroMo pushrods
GBE pump, sump, linkage etc
010 and blue coil (original tan base !)
KEP stage 3 clutch (Overkill, I hear you say ?!)
40 IDFS on tall manifolds
1 32/8 GBE header with custom single muffler

It was all balanced and all rods, pistons etc weight matched, so might stay together for a while !

I'm in the throes of swapping out the IDFs and manifolds for the correct carbs (IDAs) choked down to 32mm

should be a barrel of laughs - was ok with the 40s so hoping for more fun with the 48s.

Did any one else get one up and running ?

[Udo]

My first engine was a 1600 with original crank rods and pistons , original valves and made 115 HP rev. up to 7000 rpm in 1984 . we did 3 of them one is still alive . The original cranks are one of the strongest typ1 and 4

Udo