CSP/JPM Wasp header and Muffler ( Images Wanted)

[JS]

Johnny: Calculations for the exhaust, is that after the collector?

Could you post it, or is it a program that does it?

Erlend, for the calculations best ask Johannes directly.

[Erlend / bug66]

Thanks

Need to fab up a longer stinger I think

[Erlend / bug66]

Thanks

Need to fab up a longer stinger I think

Need to add 43cm / 17inches 

That's based on 7600rpm and matched to the middle of the sweet spot for the intake length / cam duration.

[JS]

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[JS]

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[JS]

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[JS]

So just wanted you to show you how the Wasp muffler turned out. It fits well and is surprisingly quiet for what it is. No issues with fit and tire clearance.
It tucks in under the fender really nice and the bend goes on the outside of the body a lot less than I expected. You will need to drill two 8,5mm holes in the body, at least if you use the supplied bracket and don´t do some very clever self made solution.
The pipe from the collector to the header of course needs a coat of black paint like the Sahara needs rain, but that´s what winters are for.  

[-Alex-]

Ok, looks nice.   Probably looks nice also on latemodel germanlooker with CF bumper

[neil68]

I was thinking about adding the Wasp muffler to my Stage 2 header.  However, I'm concerned that the muffler might not clear my rear disc brakes.  Based on JS's photos above, the muffler looks very close to the brake drum, so disc caliper brackets might interfere.  Can anyone confirm?

Thanks.

[Olaf A./DFL]

My Club buddy Tobi has disc Brakes all around and a Wasp Header + Muffler on his oval- fits perfect -no clearance problems

[neil68]

Thank you!

[Reubs]

On my 1956 beetle it didn't clear the handbrake mechanism...

It's a massive muffler! And you'd think they would have tested / advise of the fact.

I'm guessing it may be the difference between short and long axle rear.

I had to scallop out a section of the muffler to clear it.
When car jacked up all looks good, so be sure to jack the hub up to load it and see where it all sits.

[Olaf A./DFL]

Do you have a picture of the clearance problem?

[neil68]

On my 1956 beetle it didn't clear the handbrake mechanism...

It's a massive muffler! And you'd think they would have tested / advise of the fact.

I'm guessing it may be the difference between short and long axle rear.

I had to scallop out a section of the muffler to clear it.
When car jacked up all looks good, so be sure to jack the hub up to load it and see where it all sits.

I switched my Beetle to short axles, so I'm concerned about clearance as well.

[Olaf A./DFL]

On my 1956 beetle it didn't clear the handbrake mechanism...

It's a massive muffler! And you'd think they would have tested / advise of the fact.

I'm guessing it may be the difference between short and long axle rear.

I had to scallop out a section of the muffler to clear it.
When car jacked up all looks good, so be sure to jack the hub up to load it and see where it all sits.

I switched my Beetle to short axles, so I'm concerned about clearance as well.

Look at Johnnys car above -it has short axles too.
Of course the system was test fitted before it came on the market - I'm wondering what kind of brake Reubs has installed - can't be original drums or CSP Discs.

[neil68]

CIP1 had one Wasp Stage 2 muffler in stock, and they are local to me here in Canada, so I ordered it.  I really need to replace my 10-year-old Magnaflow muffler this winter, and it makes sense to match the Wasp header with the correct pipe and muffler.

I may have to re-bend some brake lines from my rear disc calipers to clear the Wasp, but I'll make the necessary changes and post any pictures.

Thanks.

[Peter]

I am curious if it will make more power with the new muffler!

[-Alex-]

I wonder if the wasp exhaust will fit wide rear tires ( lets say some has 944 turbo early alloy arms, 265/35 tires, 9,5x18 et 60 wheels etc)

[spanners]

Great pics Alex,  kaffer cup cars showing the sort of exhaust work required just to comply with noise and emmisions from back in the day, todays testing is even tougher  re my recent post on this very subject,  we have a mantra,  make it fit and fit for purpose.

[neil68]

Early Christmas present arrived today from CIP1

[Zach Gomulka]

Complete with voodoo chamber

[neil68]

I started mocking up the Wasp muffler on my '68 short axle Beetle.  I checked it first with the M&H 215/65 tire and it looks like it will clear by about 2.5 cm.  Hopefully that will be adequate when the back end squats and the tire bulges, while launching at the drag strip.

As I expected, there are some interference issues with the disc brake calliper and lines.  The muffler is very close to the bleed valve on the calliper (~5 mm), as well as the brake line exit from the calliper.  I may be able to move the muffler over far enough to expose the brake line.  Will loosen the header and see how much movement can happen to get the muffler closer to the valve cover:



The bracket overlaps my Weber windows, although I might be able to just use the single bolt (Ghia bracket) on the lower right bolt hole of the window, or reverse the bracket intended for Beetles:



Here you can see how close the bleed nipple is to the front of the muffler:


Top view shows how close the e-brake spring assembly is:

[nicolas]

wow, that is indeed close. hope you can work out a way around that issue to make it work.

[neil68]

I spent some time mocking up some alternatives.  I see what Reubs was referring to...the e-brake mechanisim is in the way, as is access to the bleed nipple and brake line entrance to the calilper.  One good possibility might be to move the muffler in towards the valve cover, which will allow it to clear the caliper.  This does move the clamp slightly outward, so that would have to be modified...I don't really want to scallop out the muffler, if possible.

I had to reverse the supplied mount bracket:




The muffler is close to the valve cover, and it's at a bit of an angle.  I can probably straighten it up by adjusting the clamp:



The clamp needs straightening for this revised method to work:



The power bottle still clears the header pipe:

[neil68]

To avoid having to use a 2.5" extension/adaptor pipe at the collector, which would disrupt the "tuned" length, I may be able to use a banjo fitting which would just clear the front of the muffler.  Found some similar examples while surfing the net:

[leec]

That's a good solution. Will you dyno to see what the system gains you?
Lee

[Reubs]

Here's a pic of what I did.
Cut a portion of the flange out and welded with stainless wire then cleaned up a bit.
Works, and who sees it anyway.. [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

[neil68]

Thank you for posting that picture!  That actually looks very good, hardly noticeable at all.  I'm going to work on mine this week, and will have to decide what to do.  I've pretty much got it narrowed down to three options:

1.  Move the muffler towards the valve cover to clear the caliper, and then try to straighten out the clamp area of the pipe (risk damaging the clamp portion).
2.  Add a pipe extension to the clamp area (however, this would change the pipe length and possibly affect the tuning).
3.  Notch the muffler like you did (and weld up the gap).  Do you have any photos to share, showing what it looks like after you cut the section out?  Thanks. 

[Reubs]

Hi Neil
Sorry it took me so long.
No pics taken when I trimmed the flange. Sorry.
There was what looked to be stainless wool packing.
Look forward to seeing how yours turns out.
Cheers.

Ps. A couple of pics of my 56 too [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

[neil68]

Very nice!  The tailpipe is nicely tucked under the fender.