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Author Topic: JPM head/TF1 case build and car mods for Hot rod drag week 2019 in Old cabrio  (Read 277901 times)
drgouk
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« Reply #360 on: November 08, 2015, 10:25:22 am »

Hi Richie,
             Do you have a pic of the heads installed with the pushrod tubes fitted? I'm using a pauter case with jpm heads and the push rod tube angle seems excessive. I would like to see how yours sit with your custom pushrod tube block. Thanks.

David Gouk 
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richie
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« Reply #361 on: November 08, 2015, 16:14:09 pm »

Hi Richie,
             Do you have a pic of the heads installed with the pushrod tubes fitted? I'm using a pauter case with jpm heads and the push rod tube angle seems excessive. I would like to see how yours sit with your custom pushrod tube block. Thanks.

David Gouk 

Hi David

I will do when I get to it next week, need to shorten the push rod tubes still, from my experience with the pauter cases on my builds they have moved the tube location to work with there heads, we have welded the holes up in other companies heads and re machined them to align better.

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
drgouk
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« Reply #362 on: November 09, 2015, 12:20:53 pm »

Thanks Richie.

Hi Richie,
             Do you have a pic of the heads installed with the pushrod tubes fitted? I'm using a pauter case with jpm heads and the push rod tube angle seems excessive. I would like to see how yours sit with your custom pushrod tube block. Thanks.

David Gouk 

Hi David

I will do when I get to it next week, need to shorten the push rod tubes still, from my experience with the pauter cases on my builds they have moved the tube location to work with there heads, we have welded the holes up in other companies heads and re machined them to align better.

cheers Richie
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Dave Harryman
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« Reply #363 on: November 10, 2015, 04:45:47 am »

Lifters in, covers on, pump on, cylinders needed a little clearance for case through bolt washers

porn  Shocked
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UltraOrange67-2443
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« Reply #364 on: November 10, 2015, 19:14:36 pm »

Hi dude,

What lengths do the Raceware studs come in?

I was looking at ARP ones.

Cheers, Nick

Cool, thanks guys


Hi Nick

as frallan wrote, anything you want, they do off the shelf VW sets or custom to your specs which is what I needed as the normal ones are to long for this, takes a few weeks but worth the wait Smiley

cheers Richie
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1967 1200 2920cc EFI
richie
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« Reply #365 on: November 12, 2015, 02:44:02 am »

Hi Richie,
             Do you have a pic of the heads installed with the pushrod tubes fitted? I'm using a pauter case with jpm heads and the push rod tube angle seems excessive. I would like to see how yours sit with your custom pushrod tube block. Thanks.

David Gouk 

David, with regular 2 piece tubes its just about ok, decided today to open the head tube hole up for pauter tubes and move the hole slightly at same time, going to hve to clearance the head fins underneath to clear the pauter tube as well

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #366 on: November 12, 2015, 03:06:14 am »

So with the heads back I carried on fitting etc, next issue was the cylinders weren't clearing the head studs enough so pushing studs out at top. So did some clearancing on cylinders, got them to fit better and put heads together with mock up springs in and bolted them on.  With rockers on I could do geometry, well with the roller lifter being so long and this not having much stroke the adjustable pushrod was much to long, so cut an old pushrod down, tapped it inside and made a short adjustable pushrod Smiley
I got geometry done fairly easy, then check lift on all valves to know what to shim springs to on each one. I borrowed two  1/2inch Shocked  pushrods the correct length as I figured if they clear then the 7/16 ones I am going to use will easily
The pushrod is so close to head on ex pushrod that I tried a pauter tube to gain some more clearance and everything looks good with that so heads back off to get opened for those tubes then I can assemble them and they can be fitted ready for pushrods to arrive Smiley  
« Last Edit: November 12, 2015, 03:08:07 am by richie » Logged

Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Dave Harryman
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« Reply #367 on: November 12, 2015, 04:45:14 am »

looking good !
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drgouk
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« Reply #368 on: November 12, 2015, 12:17:33 pm »

Thanks Richie, That's exactly how mine look. I have the pauter tubes as well. I will have to machine the seal surface at the correct angle on the heads. Thanks for taking the time to reply. David
Hi Richie,
             Do you have a pic of the heads installed with the pushrod tubes fitted? I'm using a pauter case with jpm heads and the push rod tube angle seems excessive. I would like to see how yours sit with your custom pushrod tube block. Thanks.

David Gouk 

David, with regular 2 piece tubes its just about ok, decided today to open the head tube hole up for pauter tubes and move the hole slightly at same time, going to hve to clearance the head fins underneath to clear the pauter tube as well

cheers Richie
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richie
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« Reply #369 on: November 12, 2015, 16:48:52 pm »

Thanks Richie, That's exactly how mine look. I have the pauter tubes as well. I will have to machine the seal surface at the correct angle on the heads. Thanks for taking the time to reply. David
Hi Richie,
             Do you have a pic of the heads installed with the pushrod tubes fitted? I'm using a pauter case with jpm heads and the push rod tube angle seems excessive. I would like to see how yours sit with your custom pushrod tube block. Thanks.

David Gouk 


No problem Smiley  You definitely don't just put one of these combos together, lots of thought and time goes into it to make the most of the potential Wink

cheers Richie
David, with regular 2 piece tubes its just about ok, decided today to open the head tube hole up for pauter tubes and move the hole slightly at same time, going to hve to clearance the head fins underneath to clear the pauter tube as well

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #370 on: November 14, 2015, 04:01:37 am »

Thanks to excellent service from Geers engineering I dropped heads off in morning and had them back in afternoon, clearanced for pauter tubes and good to go Cool

So I started with pulling all the head studs out, then cleaning the threads and re fitting with a little locktite to seal them up, re fitted pistons into freshly cleaned cylinders and started building it up
« Last Edit: November 14, 2015, 04:05:02 am by richie » Logged

Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #371 on: November 14, 2015, 04:11:03 am »

With the heads on and torqued down to racewares specs I test fitted the pushrod tubes to determine length and that they cleared everything, I then set them up and fitted them, I also got a couple of deliveries to day so could start on the plumbing
« Last Edit: November 14, 2015, 04:15:13 am by richie » Logged

Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #372 on: November 14, 2015, 04:20:52 am »

Having decided to use an autocraft pick up to scavenge oil from sump I then had to clearance the case to fit it how I wanted it, so lots of tape and plastic to seal everything up and I carefully ground away at the case to allow it to fit.
Even though I didn't have pushrods yet something made me decide to refit the rockers to check clearance, and I found the rocker shaft mounting blocks just about touching the springs, to close to ignore so rockers apart and ground each block until I had plenty of clearance then all back together.
I put the J tubes off the other engine so I have more idea of what room I have to plumb the pump and scavenge system  
« Last Edit: November 14, 2015, 04:22:50 am by richie » Logged

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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Dave Harryman
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« Reply #373 on: November 14, 2015, 05:15:34 am »

nice work Richie ! that is turning out nice  Shocked
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drgouk
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« Reply #374 on: November 14, 2015, 12:58:40 pm »

Richie, What valve springs are you running? over the nose pressure? Thanks David
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andy198712
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« Reply #375 on: November 14, 2015, 16:36:01 pm »

What does 20ft/lbs equate to on the nut for the head torque? looking nice! that pump is a serious unit too!
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Bruce
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« Reply #376 on: November 14, 2015, 22:42:56 pm »

He's got the extension almost perpendicular to the head of the torque wrench, so it's effect is near zero.

Richie, I noticed you have forgotten to install the stud for the thermostat bracket.
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andy198712
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« Reply #377 on: November 14, 2015, 23:04:26 pm »

He's got the extension almost perpendicular to the head of the torque wrench, so it's effect is near zero.

Richie, I noticed you have forgotten to install the stud for the thermostat bracket.


I thought it was .... Torque setting on the wrench = actually torque on the nut X normal length of the wrench / extended length of wrench?

i loathe working it out at work if we have to use a crows foot ect  Roll Eyes
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richie
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« Reply #378 on: November 15, 2015, 16:46:36 pm »

He's got the extension almost perpendicular to the head of the torque wrench, so it's effect is near zero.

Richie, I noticed you have forgotten to install the stud for the thermostat bracket.



 Cheesy    To heavy Wink
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #379 on: November 16, 2015, 02:19:40 am »

Richie, What valve springs are you running? over the nose pressure? Thanks David

They are PSI springs, 675lbs

cheers Richie
« Last Edit: November 17, 2015, 03:46:07 am by richie » Logged

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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #380 on: November 17, 2015, 02:27:22 am »

I have been beating and grinding tin and shroud to try get it to fit tight, its difficult with raised roof on case and wide cylinders but getting close now  Smiley
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
modnrod
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Old School Volksies


« Reply #381 on: November 17, 2015, 13:15:26 pm »

Looks good Ritchie.

Is the engine 1/2" wider than stock? 1" wider?
And finally, is the Scat tin and shroud the best option do you think if you can't find OEM doghouse shrouds?

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richie
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« Reply #382 on: November 17, 2015, 17:28:16 pm »

Looks good Ritchie.

Is the engine 1/2" wider than stock? 1" wider?
And finally, is the Scat tin and shroud the best option do you think if you can't find OEM doghouse shrouds?



Thanks Smiley  Exhaust stud to exhaust stud its pretty close to stock, I actually trimmed a little of each cylinder tin where it touches case as it was to wide, its the other way that cylinders are big, pulley to flywheel way, does that make sense? For this application with no doghouse oil cooler to me yes, 100% its the best to use, I haven't tried all brands and styles of aftermarket with cooler so that's another can of worms Wink

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Dave Harryman
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« Reply #383 on: November 17, 2015, 18:44:38 pm »

that tin fits better than mine
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nicolas
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« Reply #384 on: November 17, 2015, 19:57:41 pm »

if it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer!  Wink
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richie
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« Reply #385 on: November 17, 2015, 23:54:21 pm »

if it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer!  Wink


 Shocked  Shhhhhhhh, you will give away my secrets  Huh Cheesy Grin
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
hotstreetvw
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« Reply #386 on: November 20, 2015, 02:28:51 am »

Looking great.

Do you have a plan for an oil cooler?
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LGK
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WWW
« Reply #387 on: November 20, 2015, 09:07:57 am »

Hi Richie,

Nice project again,thanks for getting us all motivated this way  Wink
I have 3 questions for you;

1) I suppose the copper shims will be your "fuse" in case something may happen?Are they the "regular" ones sold on the market or "one-off 's?"Never thought of using real " fire-rings"  as i think with the surface on the 4" cyl. you could do it?
2) Why the choice of this (brand??)oilpump,and not an autocraft 2 or 3 stage-one for example?
3) Are you running titanuim valves on both in/ex ?

Thanks in advance,keep going mate .

Rgds Steve
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richie
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« Reply #388 on: November 21, 2015, 07:21:36 am »

Hi Richie,

Nice project again,thanks for getting us all motivated this way  Wink
I have 3 questions for you;

1) I suppose the copper shims will be your "fuse" in case something may happen?Are they the "regular" ones sold on the market or "one-off 's?"Never thought of using real " fire-rings"  as i think with the surface on the 4" cyl. you could do it?
2) Why the choice of this (brand??)oilpump,and not an autocraft 2 or 3 stage-one for example?
3) Are you running titanuim valves on both in/ex ?

Thanks in advance,keep going mate .

Rgds Steve

Hi Steve

copper gaskets are more of a protection for the head surface, I have never torched just the gasket, always the head as well so they don't save it from that, I think this is a much higher quality pump, and yes Ti intake and exhaust valves


cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Frallan
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« Reply #389 on: November 21, 2015, 18:47:21 pm »

,

2) Why the choice of this (Pauter)oilpump,and not an autocraft 2 or 3 stage-one for example?


Thanks in advance,keep going mate .

Rgds Steve
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