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Author Topic: JPM head/TF1 case build and car mods for Hot rod drag week 2019 in Old cabrio  (Read 277634 times)
Bruce
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« Reply #420 on: November 08, 2016, 07:51:04 am »

... Rallycross motors go for the shortest possible primary for maximum energy to the turbine...
Right.  Short primary means maximum heat in the exh gases so there's maximum energy to spin the impeller.  Long tubes means a lot of heat gets radiated out, reducing the energy stored in the gasses.
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richie
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« Reply #421 on: November 16, 2016, 00:41:58 am »

Leave you all to decide who knows best Roll Eyes    I am off to Street car super nationals 12 in Las Vegas with a working driving car  Grin

cheers Richie
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Jeff68
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« Reply #422 on: November 16, 2016, 13:48:30 pm »

Best of Luck Richie!! I hope you do well in Vegas.. Cool
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richie
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« Reply #423 on: November 16, 2016, 16:39:16 pm »

Thanks Jeff Smiley 
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Udo
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« Reply #424 on: November 16, 2016, 20:35:01 pm »

Good luck , keep us updated :-)

Udo
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Chip
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« Reply #425 on: November 17, 2016, 06:15:59 am »

Good luck! Have a great time!
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Berger
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« Reply #426 on: November 21, 2016, 21:28:14 pm »

So, how was it...?  Smiley
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This is my simple religion:
-Be cool
-Don't be an asshole
DRED
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« Reply #427 on: November 24, 2016, 21:22:14 pm »



Hello Richie,

I was reading this topic from the beginning, sorry for the flashback but I'm intrigue by a detail on your first combo...

What kind of bearing do you use on the first main with your all T4 mains crank into a cb perf... would say BMW but on the pics, yours seems to be a OEM rear bearing with "integrated thrust washers"?

Ps:i fail to copy pics, page 2 reply 53
« Last Edit: November 24, 2016, 21:26:40 pm by DRED » Logged
richie
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« Reply #428 on: November 25, 2016, 09:34:58 am »



Hello Richie,

I was reading this topic from the beginning, sorry for the flashback but I'm intrigue by a detail on your first combo...

What kind of bearing do you use on the first main with your all T4 mains crank into a cb perf... would say BMW but on the pics, yours seems to be a OEM rear bearing with "integrated thrust washers"?

Ps:i fail to copy pics, page 2 reply 53

The case was align bored to type 4 size, then I used type 4 bearings, the bearing behind cam gear and the middle bearing do need narrowing to work though

cheers Richie
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
DRED
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« Reply #429 on: November 25, 2016, 13:34:20 pm »

Hello Richie,

Thanks  for details,  so are they  "tri-metal"?
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richie
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« Reply #430 on: November 25, 2016, 14:05:46 pm »

Hello Richie,

Thanks  for details,  so are they  "tri-metal"?

I am not sure what you mean?

cheers Richie
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Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
DRED
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« Reply #431 on: November 25, 2016, 16:20:37 pm »

Hello,

I mean they are made on a iron base and not only aluminium and other wearing materials like "New bearing"
« Last Edit: November 25, 2016, 20:32:33 pm by DRED » Logged
Erlend / bug66
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SCC Event


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« Reply #432 on: November 25, 2016, 23:37:41 pm »

Steel backed?
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The '67:
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DRED
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« Reply #433 on: November 26, 2016, 00:19:35 am »

Steel backed?

Thanks, i mean steel backed.... Forget my english vocabulary when tired..
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richie
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« Reply #434 on: March 09, 2017, 16:03:54 pm »

I have changed the thread title to suit the direction this build has gone now its official  Wink and will continue to post progress and preparation for Drag week in this thread as makes most sense to me to keep it all in one place.
When I ran car last November I had a couple of sensor issues so 1st job as to swap them out, one was map sensor and were it was placed in below on intake was a little close to exhaust so I removed it and welded it all up, then made a new mount and welded that on, fitted the 4 bar map sensor and adapted the wiring and re mapped the ECU to suit. Also made some changes to how the 2nd set of injectors are phased in as it was difficult to tune before.
My plan is to put some street miles on it over next couple of weeks and also run it at Bakersfield in a couple of weeks time to check it all works at higher boost than you can use on the road Grin

cheers Richie 
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #435 on: March 09, 2017, 16:14:11 pm »


... Rallycross motors go for the shortest possible primary for maximum energy to the turbine...

Right.  Short primary means maximum heat in the exh gases so there's maximum energy to spin the impeller.  Long tubes means a lot of heat gets radiated out, reducing the energy stored in the gasses.

And a short wheel base car with no sissy sticks needs all the help it can get for weight distribution Shocked

I thought about this for a long time and tried several different versions before this, with our cars layout it is always a compromise in some way and a half decent ECU can make up for lag etc on the 1/4 mile and this isn't built for low rpm boost on the street, the engine has enough torque off boost to get me from track to track without stressing anything to much I hope Cool

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Airspeed
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« Reply #436 on: March 09, 2017, 17:44:04 pm »

... this isn't built for low rpm boost on the street, the engine has enough torque off boost to get me from track to track without stressing anything to much I hope Cool

cheers Richie

I am sure with 55mph on those highways and the MS230 multi-finned heads, its a walk in the park for the engine to cruise for longer distances  Wink
Be sure to dial in plenty of extra advance and use high AFR's on those highway cruises for cool and clean running (if the engine likes it).
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"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..."  - Keith Seume.
10.58 @ 130 mph (2/9/2022 Santa Pod)
richie
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« Reply #437 on: March 09, 2017, 18:05:18 pm »

My only drawback is with the dry sump set up top pulley speed isn't as good as I would like, thinking about swapping 4th gear for something a little shorter so fan is turning quicker at cruising mph to help.

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
hotstreetvw
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« Reply #438 on: March 09, 2017, 18:23:34 pm »

Awesome project Richie.  I can't wait to see the results.  I bet it will be one hell of a week!
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Jeff68
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« Reply #439 on: March 09, 2017, 18:47:18 pm »

Well if any hotrod VW guys ever wondered if a turbocharged, fuel injected, 4 inch bore, stroker engine can / would live on the street and be able to be raced, what happens here will tell. Thanks Richie for posting this information and keeping us informed! With your history and experience Richie, if anyone is capable of doing this you surely are. I think and hope that HotRod magazine wil take note and give you some attention.

Best of Luck!
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spanners
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« Reply #440 on: March 09, 2017, 20:22:21 pm »

maybe keep the fan speed low with the DS pulley for burst safety and a small power gain to boot, the DS system will run very cool oil temps for sure, we run piston oil jets for turbo but i disabled them now im atmo' as it had too cold oil temps, also keep plenty of oil in the tank for that launch g, tank surge can still happen with too low oil level. ..
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Best regards, spanners.
Airspeed
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« Reply #441 on: March 09, 2017, 20:48:07 pm »

My only drawback is with the dry sump set up top pulley speed isn't as good as I would like, thinking about swapping 4th gear for something a little shorter so fan is turning quicker at cruising mph to help.

cheers Richie

Do you already have a 356 (= smaller size) top pulley?
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"...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..."  - Keith Seume.
10.58 @ 130 mph (2/9/2022 Santa Pod)
richie
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« Reply #442 on: March 09, 2017, 21:39:51 pm »

Do you already have a 356 (= smaller size) top pulley?

Even smaller than that, its 88mm outer diameter and I have shimmed it as far apart in middle as I can to get belt in deeper so tricking it to think its even smaller Grin
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
richie
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« Reply #443 on: March 09, 2017, 21:44:30 pm »

Awesome project Richie.  I can't wait to see the results.  I bet it will be one hell of a week!

Well if any hotrod VW guys ever wondered if a turbocharged, fuel injected, 4 inch bore, stroker engine can / would live on the street and be able to be raced, what happens here will tell. Thanks Richie for posting this information and keeping us informed! With your history and experience Richie, if anyone is capable of doing this you surely are. I think and hope that HotRod magazine wil take note and give you some attention.

Best of Luck!

Thanks guys, been a long road already just getting to this point, with the car being 8000 miles away from me most of the year and only getting a few weeks on it each year it has been hard work but if it was easy everyone would do it Wink Grin
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
hotstreetvw
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« Reply #444 on: March 09, 2017, 21:49:28 pm »

You could maybe build a cog belt setup.  Much smaller pulley diameter without slipping.

or

Since you have space, put a vacuum pump to the left, run a belt from the crankshaft to the VP and then from the VP over to the fan.  Size the pulleys as required.
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Zach Gomulka
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Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.


« Reply #445 on: March 09, 2017, 22:21:45 pm »

Do you already have a 356 (= smaller size) top pulley?

Even smaller than that, its 88mm outer diameter and I have shimmed it as far apart in middle as I can to get belt in deeper so tricking it to think its even smaller Grin

I was just going to ask about a custom gen pulley Smiley What is the pulley ratio? Have you done all the normal tricks, FI venturi ring, etc? I would hate to see you make a compromise on gearing if it isn't absolutely necessary.

What will you be using for fuel?
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Born in the '80s, stuck in the '70s.
richie
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« Reply #446 on: March 09, 2017, 22:39:53 pm »


I was just going to ask about a custom gen pulley Smiley What is the pulley ratio? Have you done all the normal tricks, FI venturi ring, etc? I would hate to see you make a compromise on gearing if it isn't absolutely necessary.

What will you be using for fuel?

I think bottom pulley is 112mm, no nothing like venture ring yet, with turbo and header sitting forward of inlet into shroud I need to look a ducting air in 1st and see how it cools. The gearing is to tall anyway as its geared for the other set up to go 160mph plus and I wont need that in this, bigger problem is getting it swapped in time scale while I am here

Fuel, 93 octane or E85 I think as they both a readily available around area we have to drive, if it has any cooling deficiency then E85 to help keep it under control
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
modnrod
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Old School Volksies


« Reply #447 on: March 11, 2017, 01:41:55 am »

I run 185/80R15 normally around the highways, 26.6" diameter. It's going on my Super (if I ever finish the thing......  Roll Eyes too.
Until I hitch up the trailer with the dragbike, or the camping stuff, or something that weighs 1/2 ton, then I change rear tyres to 195/70R14 for a diameter of 24.7".
Our speed limits are 10% lower here while towing, so it raises the engine revs, and therefore fan speed, up 7% to help keep it cool.
Tall tyres for speed at the 1/4, short tyres for fan speed at low road revs.
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richie
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« Reply #448 on: March 11, 2017, 04:42:49 am »

Did cross my mind but I am hoping to do the whole event on the same wheels and tyres so will use a DOT drag radial treaded tyre so that rules out different tyre heights for road and track

cheers Richie
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Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
Eddie DVK
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« Reply #449 on: March 11, 2017, 08:36:57 am »

That is to cool Mr Webb.
Hats off.

Venturi ring helps my engine about 5 degrees celcius on hours of highway cruising, for your info.
It is a ten minute pop rivet or spotweld job.

Have fun.
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Regards Edgar

" Type 4, it is a completely different engine. You have to drive one to understand! "
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