crazy frog full automatic turbo bug

[mr horsepower]

Hi Henri

Stock discs and drums on old cabrio still, stops ok from 158mph[255kmh] 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVtjQQcIoFg

cheers Richie

thanx for your reply
so i am fine now
and i can use the money for fancy shiney  aftermarket brakes
to make the car go faster ....
like that more ..
gr henri

[Frallan]

A good question that is a topic of its own.
I ran discs front and drums in the rear for some time.
I then stepped up to autocross threaded racing tires in the rear.
The increase in traction was really amazing oin the street.
Good braking too. For braking after a 1/8th or even 1/4 run, almost no need for brakes.

BUT on the street and during "illegal" speeds the car picked up another amazing step in braking performance when I added rear discs.
The combination of the tire traction and the ability of the rear discs surprised so many people when I demonstrated this to them.

Remember, most cars have reduction on the barkes in the rear BUT our cars have a lot of the weight there. Much more not only for acceleration traction but also for braking.
The very well know issue of the rear kicking out when it lets go though, is an uncomfortable feeling.

So, my answer is as many times, it depends. I do street, and I do a lot of circle track, I love my rear discs.
The drums also fade quicker than the discs.
For drag racing and most normal street use, drums in the rear are OK.

I am upgrading to 17" Wheels.... more tire traction and more brakes coming.
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[mr horsepower]

ho fredrick .
did you use screw in studs in front?.

gr henri

[Frallan]

Yes I do. Bought them from Demon Tweeks and a bit extra long with lugs that protrudes through.

[Jesse Wens]

Type 3 drums in the rear makes a world of difference as well.
Had this setup with drums in the front on the bad bitch slalomcar. It went heads on with Sanders car at EBI slalomcourse which was equiped with 944 calipers all round.
Of course this still wasnt enduranceracing but dragracing isn´t either.

[Frallan]

14 mm studs with nice lugnuts

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[mr horsepower]

so the engine is out

[mr horsepower]

i had some issues with my diff
it didnt like the burn outs on dragslicks

[mr horsepower]

and now i  can also modifie the converter
the take the stallspeed to boostlevel
So there is a lot to do
but i hope to run it in march this year and see how the proges wil work out
so new ecu higher boost higer stall speed
i did run it soft last season once solve the issues i can turn the power up .
and see what times it wil run.
but i learned that to go faster in a street car there is a lot involved to to it
the goal is to run the pro et series
so it has to run a consistant time in the 12s
first see if it can do that this season
then the next step..

gr henri

[Jesse Wens]

Better to fix this now then in the summer. The first summer in a lot of years you are getting the car out. looking forward to it.

[mr horsepower]

hello i was thinking about the rear suspention
it is stock irs now
but mayby it is better to put a shock with a extra spring on it
so that i can change the pre load on the scale .
what are the options and what to look for?

gr henri

[richie]

hello i was thinking about the rear suspention
it is stock irs now
but mayby it is better to put a shock with a extra spring on it
so that i can change the pre load on the scale .
what are the options and what to look for?

gr henri

Old cab is still IRS torsion bar with shocks, I don't like the thought of adding coil overs to torsion suspension, the shocks that come with them aren't designed to control the spring pressure of combined coil over and torsion bar, they just cant control it, either convert to coil over and use proper coil over designed for it[ like a Strange or QA1 double adjustable] or stay with torsion bar and normal style shock.


cheers Richie

[mr horsepower]

so ok
but the problem is that i need the car get aligned front and rear .
and if you change the camber you also change the hight and then i must adjust  the
torsions again so more  chance to loose the  alignment
 my idea was to put solid bars instead of shocks  all around
then get the car aligned and when thats ok
bolt the like pro flex coil over on it and set it to the hight it was at the alignshop
so then its perfect...i hope
does this make sense?

[richie]

so ok
but the problem is that i need the car get aligned front and rear .
and if you change the camber you also change the hight and then i must adjust  the
torsions again so more  chance to loose the  alignment
 my idea was to put solid bars instead of shocks  all around
then get the car aligned and when thats ok
bolt the like pro flex coil over on it and set it to the hight it was at the alignshop
so then its perfect...i hope
does this make sense?

Maybe I am doing it wrong  but I set torsion bars even both sides were I want them to be for pre load or spring pressure, then align for tow, camber is what it is, as long as its close side to side I leave it alone. Corner weights and tow are much more important to me than camber or ride height.

cheers Richie

[mr horsepower]

but i need rideheight as i drive the street
and we have a lot of speedbumps here in holland..you know that  bin here.
so i need some shock travel..

gr henri

[richie]

but i need rideheight as i drive the street
gr henri

I think this isn't translating properly, to me ride height= height of car [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

I think you mean you want suspension travel? movement up and down?  but it still makes no difference to alignment, I still set car to height I want with torsion bars, then make alignment correct

cheers Richie

[Berger]

With IRS there is very little change in camber during suspension travel, so once set, all is good. I still have torsion bars on my car, and soft coilover springs on my dual adjustable QA1 shocks. Gives me the chance to fine tune the rear end, and works for me....so far..

[mr horsepower]

ok i think i got it
wil look at it later when its get aligned.
thanx.

gr henri

[mr horsepower]

today i opened the autobox
and was happy it looks verry good
verry little wear on the clutches
only a few marks on the direct clutch plates
even the little planets look like new
but that came from tuning the valvebody so no problems on that
i also rebuilded the diff as i broke the 18mm drivepin in two
after some to crazy burn outs...
so next put the beefer parts in it
and put it back in the car

gr henri

[Frallan]

I prioritise and usually drop evreything  when I see a fb message from Aaron Roberts in Australia and from you on Cal Look.no.

I am surpised that you could brake that diff. They are pretty tough stuff.

A tip, remember the oil pump drive shaft I sent you? As your performance increases and the strain on the pump drive, this I was told is an Achilles heal.
The guys on the sand with high HP usually build themself a new one, it is the same size but a high quality CRMoly/300M steel shaft.

In fact I will ask Aaron if he can chip in some experience here.

[mr horsepower]

I prioritise and usually drop evreything  when I see a fb message from Aaron Roberts in Australia and from you on Cal Look.no.

I am surpised that you could brake that diff. They are pretty tough stuff.

A tip, remember the oil pump drive shaft I sent you? As your performance increases and the strain on the pump drive, this I was told is an Achilles heal.
The guys on the sand with high HP usually build themself a new one, it is the same size but a high quality CRMoly/300M steel shaft.

In fact I will ask Aaron if he can chip in some experience here.

hello fredrik
i think you mean the input shaft
instead of the oilpump drive
as the oil pressure relief valve operate at 27bar in stock aplication
is enough to make a race trans
as the usa guys wil always put more oilpressure in a trans to  not make it slip
thats why the stock oil shaft bends it wil create a fluid lock
we in europe try to find out how we can make the clutch hold due friction
saw manny trannys that whore wear out due high oil pressuere
i drove my in stock pressurre and no signs of slip
so now just raise the pressure a little bit
so the valves can operate like the designer disigned it
the shaft you mentioned is i think the input shaft
some say it breakes at 400 hp
let me just break a few and then i try to solve it
but i think that when i take a good high stall converter and an 4.10 rear ratio
it wil soften the shockload  on the internals
thats my goal now..

and about the diff
i did some big burn outs on dragslicks
and did not let go al 3 gears
it seized totaly
i know now that a roling burn out is better for now until i made my lsd diff
but i most say it take a lot of torque to break it and i did ....
so now i know the weak link in the trannie for now
up to the next link

gr henri

[Frallan]

OK!

I thought the small center shaft was an oil pump drive. There you go, I know nothing about the internals.
But it is OK I let the specialist like you, help me when so needed. :-)

Again, love your work and the fact that you share so freely. Thanks!

[mr horsepower]

OK!

I thought the small center shaft was an oil pump drive. There you go, I know nothing about the internals.
But it is OK I let the specialist like you, help me when so needed. :-)

Again, love your work and the fact that you share so freely. Thanks!


it is the oil shaft in the middle
but again if you raise oilpres to much
it wil lock and snap off.
like a jammed regulator on a engine
then the filter wil blow up or the pumpshaft snaps
the same idea..

gr henri

[mr horsepower]

hi
i looked to the difference of the parts
in the vw automatic and the audi turbo automatic
and there are some cool upgrades possible
like larger diameter frictions on the direct clutch and more tangs
also larger dia on 2nd drum so more grip
5 instead of 4 frictions in the forward clutch
and a heat treathed driveshell
so lets build the box with  this upgrades now
i am happy with the new ingredients

gr henri

[mr horsepower]

next

[Neil Davies]

A regular box is like black magic to me, automatic boxes fry my brain! I'm finding all this very interesting though!

[modnrod]

If the Audi box came out with a 4-sp auto version, a bit like the Jatco in the Sub, then I think it might be the only gearbox I'd use in ACVWs.

[Frallan]

Not news to all of you but there is a long thread with many pages and videos linked to the topic of T2 and Audi automatics. Enjoy!

http://ultimateaircooled.com/transaxle/15674-t2-audi-3-speed-automatic-our-cars-dragsters.html

[mr horsepower]

hello loungers
i did a lot of work on the car engine and box latly
i got i touch with aaron roberts from australie and this man is a real pro if it comes to
reinventig the 010 autobox
so for me we discused how to make it working for me
so i ended to build a complete new autobox with lots of modifications in it....
also got the converter ready
i wil test it this year
i am happy to get in contact thanx to frallan!!!
i also got a brand new ecu from kms motorsport
they where so kind to send me a new one
as service .. great company
as for the engine
i had some coolant leakage on the cilinder gasrings
did some research and ordered some copper ones at go westy.
and they where not cheap
only when the package was dilivered and i opened it up
i was suprised
that what i got
if i have gave my 12 year old a copper plate and a good cissor
i would have i gues a better quality ..
the verdic is again to do it all by yourself
and i  though it was a company that sell quality
so now waiting for my new gas rings
and build it al together and chase some big v8s in the pro et class

gr henri

[mr horsepower]

got my car running
it sounds crisp now
so i  hope to run it all season and have fun
today i worked on an other animal
and this guy now has no reasons to not drive it this year....
he only need some motivation from over here

gr