My kitchen built 2276 dynoed at 165 PS. Engine tuning experts needed.

[Sander/DVK]

No guesses?:-)

I´m gonna put it into the car on saturday, what can I expect?

 

Well, then I'll give it a shot.

180Hp at the crank.

[Nico86]

Great job ! \o/

[jamiep_jamiep]

Sounds great!

[181]

tomorrow is the day! If everything goes well, I´ll have a chance to drive my first VW with a LOT of HP. 

[181]

[181]

So those are todays pics of my VW Type 181 with a bit of spice..

[Peter]

Cool,
you ll have fun

[181]

some more

[Nico86]

Great 181 !

[Peter]

So,
how does it drive?

[181]

It just GOES!

I feel my carbs are rich with 180 mains, although it doesnt smoke black, I ordered a set of 170 and 160 mains to try, also it would deserve a downgrade to 38mm venturies I think.

It runs cool, but it is noisy I think I¨ll have to revisit the rockers again. I have a short geared gearbox, with 4.37:1 ring and pinion so the acceleration is amazing but it completely lacks ability of speed :-)

Today I solved some small oil leaks from VDO sender and l´ll have to reseal the Scat sump but I don¨t mind few drops of oil in my garage. I checked the oil it seems to be clean, no silverish stuff so I hope internals are doing well.

I resynced the carbs today, DRLAs are very very smooth carbs. After I cleaned and relubed the throttle cable, gas pedal and relubed the CSP linkage it has very sharp throttle response and very sensitive gas pedal. It is so sensitive I consider adding another return spring to regain some resistance.

I do not have any comparison as this is my first big engine and there are no strokers around in my country. My plan is to baby it and begin driving with baby steps and a lot of maintenance...

[volkskris]

congrats! nice thing also, I would just remove the towel-rails on the front bumper
Kristof

[181]

cold air intake, props to my friend David 

[181]

So I have maybe 200 miles on my new engine and it runs great, really great..well until yesterday today. The engine developed an oil leak on flywheel main seal, and the leak is big. It is so big that the oil got onto my clutch disc and the car leave maybe 3-4 inch puddle under engine.

The main seal I used before was German red seal, installed all the way in the case using a tool, inner lip lubed with universal grease. It doesn´t show any signs of wear or damage!

So today I removed the engine, degreased everything, installed another red seal, along with new flywheel o-ring this time flush with the case surface, only to get the very same leak. I also checked the return channel from seal chamber to the engine sump, no blockage.

Crank is 4340 chinese, flywheel is 12,5 lb 4340, endplay is correct (checked today) amd this leak is my only problem. I use 10W30 engine oil, Schadek 26mm pump.

Any ideas what should I do? Today was very frustrating. I built my first engine, it hauls ass, but a flywheel seal got me? Huh..

My crankcase is new mag case and is vented on 3 places (oil tower, fuel pump location and 1-2 valve cover. I think I´ll pull the case again check the torque on the case nuts and luctite the galley plugs into the case.

Weird is that the leak started after 200 miles. No problems during break in and first miles on the street.

Any ideas?

Also, how do you set up valves with FK-8 camshaft? I used a factory procedure to adjust my valves, but was told it is wrong?

[pupjoint]

can u get the black German seals? i forgot what brand, but the red ones never worked for me....

[Addie/DVK]

Did you mount an o-ring in your flywheel? Could be the problem.

[181]

yes, o-ring is brand new...I sourced a black silicone seal from our local manufacturer this time, because single and dual lip german Elring did not worked for me..

[Zach Gomulka]

....luctite the galley plugs into the case.

That would be my guess. Good luck!

[Type1/DVK]

use a black german 1lip seal and maybe your flywheel isn't 100% correct in sealing. bad flywheel?

[Felix/DFL]

use a black german 1lip seal and maybe your flywheel isn't 100% correct in sealing. bad flywheel?

One time I had a problem were the flywheel surface (were the seal matches to) was bad. First I tried out with another seal cause I didn`t see the bad surface=same problem. Flywheel changed= problem solved.
Have a look at that detail...

Maybe a case plug is not sealing correct or a small crack in the case? Hopefully not a crack behind the 3rd cyl.
Good luck!

[181]

use a black german 1lip seal and maybe your flywheel isn't 100% correct in sealing. bad flywheel?

it seems OK, I had a nice uniform polished trace of the seal on the flywheel surface. Fingers crossed for the leaky galley plugs!

Is it possible that a pressure relief valve got stuck and that causes big oil pressure in main bearing near flywheel? That´s my last idea...

[Jeff68]

If you take the engine back out again, or if it's out I would check the runout of the flywheel.  If there is excessive runout of the flywheel this could cause the flywheel end of the crank to bump or rub the seal and finally damage the seal and cause a leak.  I trhink there is a tolerance and a procedure in the Bently manual to check the runout of the flywheel as well as the crank main bearing journals.  You will need a dial indicator and magnetic base dial indicator holder (basically something to hold the indicator).  I hope this isn't what's wrong but it's something to check.

[viNce]

Look @ your cam plug.

I had a big oil leak on my 2074 engine, though it was my main seal, but it was perfect. In fact my cam plug (repro for grooved case) was totally loose in the case.

I replaced the metal plug with a silicon plug for mexican case without groove (without splitting the case) and no leaks since 

http://panelvan.skynetblogs.be/post/7142147/back-in-bzh

[181]

So..today..rushed from my work to friends shop. car on the lift, engine removed, flywheel removed and..main seal dry as a desert. All galley plugs loctited, but the problem was the cam plug! Hopefully I had a spare "new style" rubber coated cam plug that I purchased by a mistake, so I removed the original metal cam plug and installed the rubber cam plug. No oil leaks after 50 miles.

My question is..my Daiken clutch disc got contaminated by oil. I did my best to degrease it, I used heavy duty killer industrial degreaser (tetrachlormethan). The clutch is slipping a little bit under heavy load. Can I hope that the remaining oil will "dry out" from the clutch disc after some time of light use? I only head a stock sprung disc in my parts stash and did not want to use it.. thanks,

[Shubee2 (DSK)]

Hi I have a Question in one of your Pictures it looks that starter is mounted upside down?? or is a Thing  Starter Different? never seen one with the motor on top and Solenoid on the Bottom???

[181]

Hi, this is not a 181 starter. 181 starter is the same as beetle auto-gearbox self supporting starter. But I´m using high torque european Magneton starter in my car. It is much stronger, lighter, also self supporting and is happily turning my engine.  Its shape dictates the position in the car, the flange is in other position than with Bosch starter..

here you can see the difference in size and weight between the two:

[71CALRIPPER]

Where the hell do you get one of those and how much......

[181]

It is a starter from Czech manufacturer Magneton (very old company specialised in auto industry). It is made locally here in Europe. If you want I can find the price, buy it for you and send it out! No China!

It is a sterter with reduction gear so If I undwerstand it draws less current from battery but with huge power.

Jan

[71CALRIPPER]

Yes please dude, some other people might want one too

Thank you


PS Top notch work dude, killer trekker !!

[181]

It is pricey..retail cost is 144 USD+ shipping from Europe. Also there is a Chinese copy, knockoff of this for 83 but I do not recommend this.
In case of interest I can try to arrange ome group buy with manufacturer?