The Cal-look Lounge

Keep it as light as possible!

And it's almost free also  ;D

Cool idea Richie! Lots of cred to you if you go all the way to the goal with this tread :)

This is my estimate, based on the Norwegian marked:

A solid 1302 71/72, stripped as much as possible, 30000,-NOK / 4000EUR
Good Used bus trans 002/091 5000,- NOK / 666EUR
Engine
Big bore oxy boxer, FK89, used Superflow heads, high comp (>13:1), E85, IDA 48, 50 000,- NOK / 6666 EUR
Wheels 10 000,- NOK /1333EUR
Div stuff 15 000,- NOK/2000EUR

Sum estimate 110 000,- NOK / 14665EUR

Of course, with this setup, you get only one race, as there is no safety added, and you will get disqualified after the first run ;)
So maybe add safety for 10000,- NOK /1333EUR

Keep us updated :)

Berger

I think when you borrow Jo's red car and sneak in that blue bottle you're there ;D ;D

Michael

Just wondering if it would be possible WITHOUT the blue bottle  ??? ie just Carbs or EFI  :-\

Just wondering if it would be possible WITHOUT the blue bottle  ??? ie just Carbs or EFI  :-\

Just wondering if it would be possible WITHOUT the blue bottle  ??? ie just Carbs or EFI  :-\

What kind of engine size is needed do you think? Small with a lot of nitrous or big with less.

Michael

give russ a ring and buy his car, job done

Great idea Mr Webb. I can donate a tig welded bolt-in style cage believed to be from Lummus. It's the same type as in Ivan McCutcheon's '67. Better than nothing, but probably not Msa spec. Yours if you need it ;)

It is, just look at Jussis old split, 10,4 with a type 4 and ida's :) no nos there

Dannyboy inst far off it fingers crossed he will get a ten this weekend I may be wrong but I think the is at about 14k build cost

Cheers andy

There you go,not sure the budget will stretch to a split though ;)  I really dont know much about the engine in that car,how streetable was it?

Lee havent you got a split? start gathering those type 4 parts and we will see you with it at scc next year?

cheers richie

Russ who? I dont know anyone called Russ whos car fits the description I gave?

There you go,not sure the budget will stretch to a split though ;)  I really dont know much about the engine in that car,how streetable was it?

Lee havent you got a split? start gathering those type 4 parts and we will see you with it at scc next year?

cheers richie

Fellows

Is it for sale then?

Micheal you puzzle me sometimes,did you actually read what I wrote in the 1st post? the idea is to build a car,not buy one,and to see how cheap it is,i cant see Russ selling his car for a few grand can you? and with a pauter cased,autocraft 910 headed watercooled turbo efi engine with porsche gearbox it hardly "not exotic" is it?  and I wont be doing anything watercooled,thats just not what i am into :)

thanks for your input though :)

cheers richie

now this is intresting  ;D  like the 10 second tought and the blue bottle....this is a thread to follow....

your thread did move the thought nearer the front of my brain,so you are partly responsible for my actions :D ;D no luxury of a 5 speed here though,I will have to out up with the noise of a short 4th gear :'( ;)

cheers richie

sorry about that... ;D ;D  for me it is the once in a lifetime car with as les limits as possible (for me that is)  , you will go to scc ?? then i drop by for a nitro talk, and a CUP OF TEA

On a serious note this sounds cool.

Do you intend to buy a good body, that doesn't need any work, or something that needs welding, paint etc.  I think there might be as much as 5k between the two.

Does trading parts count ??

Currently have a engine that cost me £2800 so far including labour A body and running gear that cost £200 , various parts tha cost.me another £400-500  due to trading pars
The  gearbox with quaffe was the most expensive at £3 k   
Got to add a cage and another £1k and hopefully run an 11

Wanna team up ? And run a ten for under £10 k ??

my engine is very streetable and not very exotic although even though the car is mot ready i wouldnt want to drive it to the pod :D

my engine is very streetable and not very exotic although even though the car is mot ready i wouldnt want to drive it to the pod :D

i might get it moted to drive it from your workshop to the pod as any further and id just call the rac and say its broke then get them to drive me home  ;D

I know with my street motor in John Varela's Super Comp car we had less than $8,000 in it total. The car would just need some interior and lights to be street legal. My boy Jacob's car doesn't have more than that in it either, but it hasn't run a 10 yet.

Just to throw a curve ball as you aren't going to be naturally aspirated anyway... Why not put a huge turbo on a little 1776 and wind the boost up. After all, there's that Swedish car from Turbo Town that ran 10.1 at Scc and that was 1600, stock crank, stock heads etc. The only real expensive stuff is the fuel injection side of things. But these can also be sourced second hand quite cheaply.

I think your biggest single cost on this project will be your gearbox. No real way around this issue, unless you buy a 915 for £1,500 and run it as is. Perfect ratios for turbo already ;) and plenty strong enough. Five speeds also, so good on the motorways...

Hi Richie,

Come over to the dark side, go Type 4 :D,
get some secondhand 100mm Deutz cylinders (hope you can machine them cheap), get some 101.6 JE pistons in it. Stainless steel valves aren t to expensive on aircooled.net.
maybe have a look here at getbackontracks post, http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,14531.90.html
 
I really like your idea, Hope you accomplice this.

Regards Edgar

NOOOOOOoooooo :D   From what little I know of type 4 nothing is cheap,how do you get the heads to seal when you pressurise them beyond N/A[turbo or nitrous] is it still welding blocks on the case and adding studs?

cheers richie

I like the orange car you found

Put this engine in and add youre bottle
http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,17885.msg263527.html#msg263527

Do it this way to keep heads on no welding  ;)

richie
andy joyner has an irs box for sale with super diff im not sure of the internals but it handled 200hp turbo engine he only wants 500 quid for it ;)

Sorry fella but i bought it  ;)

Hey Richie,
              if your going to run efi, are you likely to use the cb style throttle bodies and tap your foggers in the manifolds, or would you use a single throttle body and use a single fogger mixing the fuel and gas?
What would be a better system for the power increase you require?
Are you likely to run your system with a controller?

doing it in a bug is easy.... its been done before not only by you, why not make it interesting and use a Split Bus....... Im thinking Empi Bus which has IRS conversion, Im thinking old No Mercy IRS gear box, Im thinking NOS brm's and i have either the engine that cam from no mercy or the super street engine from ron f, i have 1 full bottle of gas, so all we need is an induction system......... now that would be a target a 10 sec street parts hauler.......... ;D

Awaiting your reply.

Hey Richie
Regarding you engine power, how agressive is the motor likely to be before a shot?
How much of a shot do you think you will use to put you in the 10's?
Will the compression ratio be an important factor in a heavy shot of gas?

Sorry for all the questions but i'm building one of my cars with a similar idear {stock 2.1i wbx}
with a single wet fogger system and a controller.

I will work my way up the jettings to see how far my £300.00 engine can go before it fails.

This is an intresting thread that i will look forward to see the results from.

Paul

 

The type 4 idea isn't a bad one and could even save money in the long run, as you won't have to spend dollars on upgrading brakes. Make a clever engine release system and drop the anchor  ;D

Eddie

thanks thats not something I thought about,but the funky bearing set up on a wbx crank would put me off,also I am not sure how good the flywheel to crank fixing is,its another area that could end up costing money quickly,with the type 1 stuff I at least know what i can get away with before the flywheel falls off :o


So does anyone else apart from Berger want to throw so idea of cost out there? I have a figure in my head now but want to see what other feel its likely to cost? most of you know how much you have in your cars and how fast they are


cheers richie

Hi Richie

am curious is this a theoretical exercise? Or are you actually planning on giving it a go?

Cheers

Alex

Thank you all for the good read! Richie, shouldn't the heading be: How LITTLE money to run 10s in a street car? Anyway, a great thread and the timing is spot on. Some of us is having a rough time financially but still wish to have fun.

My two cents, it is just a matter of using the calculator. Find the weight and you know what it will take to get you into the 10's. A good, solid shortblock in combination with good heads then add nitrous in a controlled way (you will soon blow any budget if not), a solid, true street car with the right tricks and you're there.

-K-

Eddie has anyone put a good nitrous shot through the standard bolts? I rad a topic on here before about upgrading them,and allsorts of different ideas were put out there,when I ran the nitrous motor in the cabrio it was only 8 dowelled with a good gland nut done up properly,nothing fancy or expensive


cheers richie

First you cry about expensive type4 then the work to get a wbx ready bla bla  ;D  :D

Here you go a wbx 2,1L short block with type1 stud pattern and so on 7000dkr

http://vwnettet.dk/topic/181278

Yes please, stick to something that is doable for a good DIYer. For some of you, it just make sense to use a WBX or a type4 because they are stronger. But for most of us, having all the work done on such case is expensive or even find people that are actually able to do it is not that simple. And following this trend, it will just make sense to put a turbo and EFI and all the build will snowball into a high end, high tech build.
Do it the Mark Herbert way, simple, reliable and fun to drive.  ;)

Oyvind,
[hope I spelt that correct?]

Can you give me a rough idea on cost for all the work needed to a wbx case to make it usable inc type1 head stud pattern and what do you do about the lack of oil capacity? dry sump isnt in the budget ? how difficult are main bearings to get? I know of one thats been done to type 4 mains,rear thrust,type 1 lifters,decked,flange crank still 4inch bore and it seems alot of money and seems difficult to get actually done,there are other anomilalies as well like front seal,pulley etc,fitting tin,if I got some of this wrong please let me know,nothing is not being considered at the moment[well except type 4 :D ]

cheers richie

I see John already have a example of what it may cost, so I think I leave that. But it comes down to how much you are able to do yourself in the end. For me I think it would only be machining the barrels and the holes in the case for the barrels I would have to pay for. I would choose to use a set of heads that comes with the wbx stud pattern.
When VW made the wbx engine, they took all their experience from type 1 and type 4 engine and made the best of both worlds. They went back to the type 1 case design, but made it in aluminium for better durability. Added the integrated oil filter, a larger oil sump, stronger crank, better flywheel mount design, better flywheel thrust design, larger clutch disk etc. My point is, you get a lot for free with the wbx case, which you normally have to add to the Typ1 case.
No problem to get the wbx crank bearings, vwpart, cip1 etc...

But I see your point to go with the type 1 case and off the shelf parts, my thought it was just an idea to save money and get durability ;)

This is really interesting. I'm going to follow this very closely - not that I can build it at the moment, but interesting nevertheless. I'm going to have a go at my fantasy street race car! ;)

I've got a lot of bits already but I'll put down the cost as if I'd got to buy them.

My budget to start with would be:
£2000 - basic car with MOT. Maybe spend a little more and recoup some of the cost by selling parts, or a little less and do some work to make it solid and road legal. Probably a late model, tax exempt 1300 or similar.

Yep about there as well,figure a good running car will liberate a sellable engine  £350 maybe?  and gearbox £200 ?  

£700 - rollcage. RLR cage, fit it yourself. Mild steel, not moly.

for me chromoly and get soemone like hausers to bend the main hoop and front bars and halo bar,then do the rest myself,similar budget

£1200 - gearbox. Type 1, ratios I haven't got a clue!
proberly a little more than that,will try to find a used box and have it freshened up


£600 - wheels and tyres. Up to you what you go for, but slicks are a given I would think. Stick them on some cheapy 8 spokes or something to keep the cost down, you may even get lucky and get some on the starting car. I've got a pair of mag Geminis which are nice and light.

thinking around 750 as need 6 wheels
£500 - suspension. Torsion bars, shocks, limit straps etc.
£500 - miscelaneous extras - seat, belts, window net etc.

yes about right

So we're at £5.5k without even thinking about the engine! If I chuck in the 2007cc motor I've got at home then it's cost me £8 grand to run in the mid-12's. :)

Obviously the little motor won't get into the tens unless we "liberate" £500 by selling the 48 Dells and get a turbo (another £2k I reckon with the cam swap figured in), so are we better off getting rid of the motor complete and going for £3500 worth of 2276 and £800 worth of nitrous system? ??? Both seem to be around £9500-£10k! :o

Here is a thread with a very nice oxy boxer http://www.vwnorge.no/index.php/topic,19860.450.html ;)
Now i will not nag about it any more Richie  :-X


Berger :)

 and dont stop,maybe after this I will do a thread on the most expensive way to run 10s :o ;D

cheers richie

Cant any of you post a link I can actually read and understand :D  I did find a way to translate a thread on there before,just got to remember how,any clues?


 and dont stop,maybe after this I will do a thread on the most expensive way to run 10s :o ;D

cheers richie

So I have been rummaging around through old shite in boxes,so far I have found the old header,the intake manifolds[heads are long gone] the cam[was swapped out when I went turbo] and I still have the nitrous set up,but want to do it with whats available now so proberly wont use it

Fonz can I have my gearbox and throttle bodies back?  :D

Frank I need those axles and cvs as well?  ;D

Kev you dont need that crank/flywheel and rods for a while do you?

I do actually still know were alot of it is but that would defeat the object of this if I do it.


Had a clear out bud, all gone.. :o
Good thread though!


Mmmm a wet miserable rainy day isnt good for the bank account :o

cheers richie

Cool thread Mr Webb.

Doping 10's on the cheap... And drive home. The triangle of speed sais no. But can it be done? ... I think that depends on what YOU mean by cheap.

Most things in life ends up costing more in the long run when you have the needed money up front.
Maybe supercharged engines dont follow this logic?
But if someone think they might, what base engine would give tens most reliable?

It is indeed a cool idea and one that will interest most everybody because as JHU put it: the triangle says no, however....
what cannot be underestimated here is the VAST knowledge Mr. Webb has with this subject. I think knowing 'exactly' what's neccesary and what not, is key here.
That experience is worth at least 5-10K alone  ;)

I know how much it will cost,as that figure is all I have to spend :) so i may have to do a little wheeling and dealing to get there,and yes cheap is a relative word,I think I could run 12s for less than 5000pounds,but it would be a very light car and not suitable to run 10s, carefull planning should help achieve this but we will see.

My ultimate aim will be to leave the race car at home next august and drive to norway,while I am there on holiday I will see if there is any local racing,if there is they maybe go to the track and see if I can do it there,any ideas? ;D

maybe that is not achivable in the time scale but I will try and then who knows

cheers richie

this will definitely be a thread to follow
a cheap busbox conversion (stock ratios/no nosecone swap) would be very interesting
just for the fun of it, try a couple of runs without the bottle/slicks/stinger (real street trim), should do a 12??? 
i really like wbx conversions and have done a few, but if you dont take advantage of the bigger bore (at least 97), its better to stick to an aluminum type 1 case, heads will be much easier to get

10s debut on SCC2013?  ;D

Testing on the autobarn on the way,sounds like fun :o

Hi Richie
Does it have to be a Bug? A good Bug is expensive. How about a Fiat 126? They are cheap here, about $100 and light, ours weighs 650kg with full cage and IRS box and Ali cased stroker. It could easily go much lighter.

BTW- Richie, do you still have my Berg shifter in your Cabrio? Any chance of getting it back?  :P

Sorry for the misunderstanding, Richie. After I rolled my 1303, Max asked me if ''Richie'' could borrow my shifter and I thought he meant you, but it must have been someone else. Good luck with the project.

What 60ft, 1/8 time and 1/4 mph do you think you need Richie?

 Besides, a nitrous car do have its advantage in the start and will never have the top end speed of a turbo monster.

1.40 - 1.45 should be possible without spending a fortune.

-BB-

So Beetlebug what does it take to get such 60ft times? Apart from being a good driver  ;D

i think this is everybody's new favorite topic.
henk!!!

Hi Richie,

Once you have worked out what it takes, for fecks sake let me know as no matter what I do or how much I spend. I'm still stuck in the 12's darn it !!!!    ::)  ;D

Cheers,

Shane.

thats your own silly fault for listening to Danny  ::) TAKE OFF THE BELT AND ADD LOTS OF NITROUS ;D

Fixed it for you :D


Shane I do plan on sharing my findings,however good or bad they are, and your car is a perfect example of one that could see huge improvements with gas

Now while this isnt totally apples to apples comparission as 3rd and 4th gear ratio were changed between,

but my cabrio ran bext of 13.27 N/A against the 10.88 with nitrous,is that a big enough improvement for you? :o ;D

cheers richie

I'm looking forward to this build,

Wishing my Wiseco's were nitrous versions now :o

Out of interest what were the gear ratios in the cab with the nitrous motor?

Lee

my car ran 11.8 n/a,  30 shot of nitrous 11.45 so it does make massive improvements for a small amount of money cant wait to see what another 30 hp of gas does this weekend :) :)

So what you are saying is that with the 385hp I have now I should do 10s?That is with a proper gearbox of course. ;D

Michael

Unless you're driving with your brakes on AND your car weight the same as a Volvo station wagon you should be deep into the 10's.

Unless you're driving with your brakes on AND your car weight the same as a Volvo station wagon you should be deep into the 10's.

So what you are saying is that with the 385hp I have now I should do 10s?That is with a proper gearbox of course. ;D

Michael

I think I will be very silent now and craw away with tail between legs...(although the Volvo weight does somewhat ring a bell  :D )

Micheal I dont think you car weighed as much as dannys when I did the calcs for that,heres my guesstimate

385hp@1600lbs=9.36@143mph seriously that whats the most accurate 1/4 mile calc I know makes it

The calc for old cab when I ran the 9.23 says i should have run 9.14 and you never have a perfect run so it is pretty close

You might want to think about some race clothing amongst other things :o

cheers richie

11.8@1672lbs = 201hp
11.45@1672lbs=220hp

so 250hp=10.97@122.08mph

Realistically you will proberly need another 15hp to actually see the 10s,but your gearbox changes may make a difference as well

Shane you got weight and hp for your car? I will see what the magic ball says you need to add for 10s ;D

cheers richie

Yeah sorry Richie, I was being a bit lazy and didn't read from the start of the thread ( been away all week and only back online today  :D )

Danny. I know mate , I'm only teasing  ;)

Ok as for my bugs weight,to be honest I have no idea !! What does an all steel and glass 57 oval weigh from the factory ? Then remove stock interior and shove in one of Jim's Cro-moly chassis tied cages 6 pointer with ally panelling and single bucket seat and harness etc.....I'm guessing weight around 800-850 kgs ? I weight 80 kgs.

The motor in street trim made 212 bhp the other week and 177 ft/lbs on rolling road.  Best ET to date is 12.57 but the other week only made 12.72 and has run several 12.6's.

I keep meaning to get over to a public weighbridge but never seem to get time  ???

So what does the magic formula say.......

Cheers, Shane.

11.8@1672lbs = 201hp
11.45@1672lbs=220hp

so 250hp=10.97@122.08mph

Realistically you will proberly need another 15hp to actually see the 10s,but your gearbox changes may make a difference as well

Shane you got weight and hp for your car? I will see what the magic ball says you need to add for 10s ;D

cheers richie

i reckon my engine makes about 200-205 with the belt off n/a so with a 60 shot that should put me in the tens then ?

Apart from luck you need a good strip, two good tires, the correct tire pressure, just enough clutch, a well planed rear suspension and enough hp.

BB

Ok as for my bugs weight,to be honest I have no idea !! What does an all steel and glass 57 oval weigh from the factory ? Then remove stock interior and shove in one of Jim's Cro-moly chassis tied cages 6 pointer with ally panelling and single bucket seat and harness etc.....I'm guessing weight around 800-850 kgs ? I weight 83 kgs.

The motor in street trim made 212 bhp the other week and 177 ft/lbs on rolling road.  Best ET to date is 12.57 but the other week only made 12.72 and has run several 12.6's.

I keep meaning to get over to a public weighbridge but never seem to get time 

So what does the magic formula say.......

Cheers, Shane.

I have corner weight scales I can bring to the track next time we are both there Shane and see what it weighs race ready if you want? for now lets say 1900lbs,proberly not that heavy but gives us a starting point
212hp @1900lbs=12.10@110.74mph  how does that mph compare? as that the best indication of hp

cheers richie

That's a good idea about the scales. My terminal is 105 / 106 mph with a 12.57  - 12.61 ET

Could you tell me more about the rear suspension? What mods make it take off and go somewhere? Traction bar, midmount?

I think everyone can agree that the by far most important thing when dragracing is the start. Get it wrong and you might as well cruise to the finish line. This is where a experienced driver like Richie have a BIG advantage, he knows the tricks to get a car to leave the lights in a effective way even though he spent years lifting the front wheels

 There are many roads to a good rear suspension and I believe that there is no definitive answer. What works on one car might not work on your car. Trond D showed us all that a stock oval suspension with adjustable shocks and a solid mounted gearbox managed a 1.47 60ft at last year SCC. This was with a 300+ hp turbo engine, KEP 3 and a black magic. You can see that launch in his avatar picture. Tires was MH DOT's.


[/quote

That there is very impressive,will it do it regularly?who knows,hopefully Trond will and he will get faster :)  His car seems to have a very simple set up,but it works,but it wouldnt work on a N/A car[to much clutch,it would just bog]

My suspension was so simple,its easy to overthink or overspend it ::)  1st gear ratio is also super important,and often overlooked


cheers richie

11.8@1672lbs = 201hp
11.45@1672lbs=220hp

so 250hp=10.97@122.08mph

Realistically you will proberly need another 15hp to actually see the 10s,but your gearbox changes may make a difference as well

Shane you got weight and hp for your car? I will see what the magic ball says you need to add for 10s ;D

cheers richie

Richie, my final drive is 4.12 and my 4th gear is a but of a mystery as Pete couldn't recall what he fitted. I asked for a 1.21 but I'm not sure it's that close. Doesn't feel that close and I have run 1.58 / 1.21 / 4.12 previously.

My tyres are MH DOT's 215 / 60

Cheers

Shane.

I did do a few more good 60fts but people only seem to notice the one that brought me into a high 10 :-) I would need more of them to call it consistent though.
It would be nice to repeat this year @ SCC but going from a thin to a proper cage has added a lot of weight. So we will see what happens.
The reason for the heavy clutch is actually due to not slipping on the dynapack which stage 2 did...
After that I just ran it as it was, but there is no doubt that a heavy black magic and stage3 is far too much clutch...

Wow thats short,if it has that 4th in it then it tops out at 111mph@7000rpm,what rpm do you turn? I would be running a 3.88 with that at least

Looks like you got yourself a lot of work. Curious on how you are going to make it go straight.I reckon you rely on the vw basic set up uprated with some good shocks?

Michael

Pretty sure cross the line around 6500 - will try and observe this weekend up the pod. If your going let me know and bring the scales  ;)

Cheers Shane.

Can rain stop please need to prove calculator wrong lol:-)

Will do,only thing i am not sure of there is the tyre diameter,its listed as 26 tall but I thought it was taller than that,if its 26" then it looks like 1.21 with 4.12 is to short for 11s unless you turn some real high rpm which isnt needed with an engine that size

11.04 so far  ;)

11.04 so far  ;)

Well done Danny. What's the mph?

Lee

11.04 so far  ;)

Nice find Richie. How complete was it? How about splitting the thread now so that you've got a build diary with costings in the In Da Werks section and the discussion here?

Price?

shoulg I bring my welding helmet? ;D ;D

Michael

Nice base car there. Hope you are not going to paint it (saves money and weight!!)

I'm more and more interested in this nitrous stuff every time I view this thread. I'd be interested in a complete break down of everything required to run a bit of gas.

Is it easier with efi over IDA's?

Lee

We were there watching ;),it looked a really good pass,then next we saw it looked like it bogged 11.20 somthing? then 11.09@119 I think,was a bit of headwind by then

Jo got a couple of good pics of you and one of the timing lights with you on the 11.04 pass

Does your kit use individual jets at the nozzles or single jet at the solenoids?

cheers richie

Euro '67 1500!

Nice catch :)

I've got the same, and it looks to be the same colour also!

Are you going with repro wings (lighter) ?

one jet where single lines go into splitters  i was all nervous on the 11.2 as i was worried that the bollinger wouldnt be chilled enough to celebrate my first 10  :D :D

I still reckon the turbo route would be cheaper in the long run. I'd love to see a cheapo turbo engine run the number without breaking the bank. But, there's still kudos in doing it with n2o. I am just a little biased ;)

Richie, are you going to keep a tab on every single purchase?

I will replace the wings,the rears are junk and the front seem to be good genuine vw,if they are then I will sell them as I will lose the indicators from the top,and the horn grill holes so might as well use a repro or fiberglasas wing
They come in this gel coat blue for now

Met up with Rob from East coast manx today and collected the 1st pair of rear wings he has made form his new mold to use on this,he will be doing fronts as well soon,then 68 on as well when he has time

Didnt we pay for them already?  :o

lol yes i picked em up from dragday for you  do you want me to drop em off at matts

Nice car :)
Covert it to IRS or run swingaxle?

IRS,I have seen you other post >:( I am guessing someone crashed

cheers richie

>:( :(  Thats sh3t,hope he is ok?

Richie

Yes, it`s very sad that Leif rolled with his car this weekend :'( . I think we need to highlight the issue..

1200pounds

cheers richie

When my car is ready, I will drive it with the 2.0ltr type 4 I have laying around (+/-120HP N/A)
I want to add a bottle to it, so all the info is welcome. Do I have to run extra fuellines etc.?
I am still in the building face so if I have to change things (run extra lines and so, now is the time to do it.

Cheers Paul.

Been talking to a nitrous company about what is best for this as its been 10 years since I last was up to date with the latest and greatest gizmos and things have moved on since then
and no one does a aircooled vw kit that I know of,last time I kind of put it together myself

Would be cool if you, after making this project a success, put together a nitrous kit for the vw engine which is "bolt-on" and made it available to buy :)

I ran a -8 feed and -6 return as needed for the EFI,then a simple T to take off the required fuel for the nitrous system in the engine bay,but as I wrote earlier it was on the limit of fuel supply,but more to do with the pump used than enything else,if building a car from scratch i would always fit 2 fuel lines,you never know when you will want to upgrade later,with a single line carbed ststem I think you want to add another fuel system for the nitrous anyway so yes fit 2 lines at least

cheers richie  

Oyvind,

I am talking to the nitrous kit manufacturer I used before to do exactly that :),we are figuring out any differences for carbs or efi and with or without a fan shroud,anything else you can think of that we should take into account?

cheers richie

Hi Richie,

The future engine will be EFI so I already installed 2 -8 lines (so I"m good for the NOS on the temp. engine). Please keep us updated on the beetle NOS kit.

Cheers Paul.

-8 will supply plenty enough fuel for your requirements :)

Thanks, and thanks for the new wings that Michael will collect next week ;)

Paul.

just finish the car now without changing your mind at all ;)

Not much happened today,I did get some time so made a weld in gearbox intermidiate mount,but thats all,still trying to figure out what wheels and seats to use,I think I have all the important stuff figured out in my head now :)

cheers richie

Race-weight ERCO's? 6"?
As light seats as possible with a lot of support!  ;D

Race-weight ERCO's? 6"?
As light seats as possible with a lot of support!  ;D

A kirkey without padding ;)

Michael

I am also considering the fiberglass low back buckets and then add a headrest/support to cage

That is the scariest thing I see, a head rest integrated to the seat will always follow the seat/your body in an accident. A cage headrest will not... it will stay stationary while you move about.  I know seats aren't supposed to come loose... but safety is about IF.
Just a personal observation.

That is my dilema,as the car is 4 stud and Ercos are not so easily available in 4 stud,particulaly used ;) I need to look for other options,or maybe go to 5x130 instead as there are lots of cheaper wheels available if I ignore the looks,as I will proberly need new discs and drums anyway as they are so corroded buying them in porsche pattern isnt really anymore expensive

cheers richie

Richie, seemed to miss you guys at Dragstalgia ? Anyway catch up again somewhere huh  ;) Hoping to run at Shakey on Sunday with Danny. ClubdayRWYB sessions.
Bythe way I am sure I have seen some 4 stud ercos's for sale recently, maybe on here or Vzi or JG54 forum ? Happy hunting eh  ;D
By the

Richie, seemed to miss you guys at Dragstalgia ? Anyway catch up again somewhere huh  ;) Hoping to run at Shakey on Sunday with Danny. ClubdayRWYB sessions.
Bythe way I am sure I have seen some 4 stud ercos's for sale recently, maybe on here or Vzi or JG54 forum ? Happy hunting eh  ;D
By the

That is a good point Jon,and something I hadnt considered,I had planned a steel backbone to the fiber seat but not considered the "what if"  :o  

Highback it is then :)


Danny I will take a look,not so keen on the plastic seats as I worry they could tear where they are bolted through in an accident

 
cheers richie

I`m using this seat in Rabalder. Not very fancy or cool, but it has a steel frame, FIA approved, ok comfort, good support and cheap 1700,- NOK.

(http://www.pedersens-racing.no/bil/Sabelt/seter/GT090-01.jpg)

Will your car be ready for SCC so I can see how comfortable it will be?  ;D

What does it weigh?

cheers richie

I know earlier you said you would run a 2276cc motor is there a particular reason for not going bigger?


thanks

I think cost & strenght. with the shot of nos richie is planning, there is no need of a bigger engine I think

Thats pretty much it,last time it was a 2332 with a vw rod journal crank,so I wanted to do something different so it will be 82 stroke with chevy journals,strength should be about the same,and a 2276 will give me enough power on the road :) and there should be less case clearancing needed,finally i got a good deal on the 82 stroke crank :D

You could go bigger say to a 2387 but it wont gain much really and the wider motor needs longer pushrods,is more difficult to fit in the engine bay with the efi if the injectors7 fuel rail end up on the outside as they did before,lastly one of the objects of doing this is to show what others can do and I see lots more 2276's than 2387 etc :)


cheers richie

So I have been rummaging around through old shite in boxes,so far I have found the old header,the intake manifolds[heads are long gone] the cam[was swapped out when I went turbo] and I still have the nitrous set up,but want to do it with whats available now so proberly wont use it

Fonz can I have my gearbox and throttle bodies back?  :D

Frank I need those axles and cvs as well?  ;D

Kev you dont need that crank/flywheel and rods for a while do you?

I do actually still know were alot of it is but that would defeat the object of this if I do it.


Mmmm a wet miserable rainy day isnt good for the bank account :o

cheers richie

Have only just seen this thread.

Even before I got down to this post I was going to saydo you want to borrow your old gearbox and Jenveys.  :D

Hell.... why not just take the Ghia and see if you can run 10's!  :D

Nice find on the car btw. What month was it built?

Cause its to low ;D  


Can I just buy the box and throttle bodies off you for a pound each? then sell them back after I have finished with them :o :)

Face it though, the real reason you want the Jenveys back is because they look 10 times better now.  ;) ;D

Cool idea Richie! Lots of cred to you if you go all the way to the goal with this tread :)

This is my estimate, based on the Norwegian marked:

A solid 1302 71/72, stripped as much as possible, 30000,-NOK / 4000EUR
Good Used bus trans 002/091 5000,- NOK / 666EUR
Engine
Big bore oxy boxer, FK89, used Superflow heads, high comp (>13:1), E85, IDA 48, 50 000,- NOK / 6666 EUR
Wheels 10 000,- NOK /1333EUR
Div stuff 15 000,- NOK/2000EUR

Sum estimate 110 000,- NOK / 14665EUR

Of course, with this setup, you get only one race, as there is no safety added, and you will get disqualified after the first run ;)
So maybe add safety for 10000,- NOK /1333EUR

Keep us updated :)

Berger

Frank I need those axles and cvs as well?  ;D

cheers richie

Tough luck ;D

We have a donor :)  it is a little rough in places,needs a heater channel outer on one side at least and a couple of bumper mounts,I will proberly put a whole channel in as i am sure there more rust hidden underneath,the doors have suffered from sitting outside for so long unused but hopefully therer are to many hidden horrors as it hasnt had years of being "fixed' by welding plate over plate.
It is a 6v 1500 so should have some usefull pieces to sell off as well,and came with a new pair of disc drop spindles soem something else i dont need to buy

Nice Lotus white 67, finally you got a car in the right colour (again)....and when you had enough of it I'll have it off you ;)

Cool, you got them then! ;) They do look good detailed in black like a Cosmic, but I also like them as they are - should look good with the white paint on the car.

Hey Richie,
I don't know if you're interested,
but i have a complete Kdata EFI for sale, wasted spark ignition included...
A lot cheaper than DTA ;)

I just found this thread. This is a great topic / thread.  Many want to run fast on the street and strip, be reliable but on somewhat of a budget.  I really appreciate Richie starting this and doin the work! Also thanks to all those with experience in this for posting on it honsestly.  I will definitely watch this thread! 
Should rename the thread - 10 seconds for 10K  or 10K for 10 Seconds   ;D  Thanks again!

Hi all I am new to the lounge but have been following this thread for a little while now with quite a bit of interest.


in my old car we ran an 11.5 with a little gas very reliably and consistently. we bracket raced at York and Santa pod. The best money ever spent was an Innovate LM1. a very basic data logger and A/F monitor.

We would log A/F and engine rpm and use the data to back the fuel pressure on the nitrous side down. this gained us agree tenths over what had been advised as a perfect set up of jet sizes and fuel pressure.

We only ever ran a small shot as with the gas on the car was flat out at 112mph on limited at 8200rpm at 1000 feet. same speed as without gas at quarter mile. used to shut the gas off as the shift light came on.

This was only on a 2165 with home ported 42x37.5 heads and ida's. bottle pressure is the key to safe consistent running.

I am very keen to see what is achieved with a controller.

The car was a little lighter than a stock street car but not by a lot I don't think.

It was sold on to fund a V8 funnycar which has just been shelved due to finances so my 67 street car is being re built and restored to become a street strip machine.

Engine parts have been accumulated for a while and its a 2276 on ida's. no cam yet. I have some 043 headss that may get used after a trip to the welders.also with some wiseco's in there so it will take a bit of gas.

Have a cog box built box with close ratio gears and I think a 4.125 r&p. still on a super beetle main shaft.

This thread now has me pondering the potential. any thoughts?

Cheers

David

It sounds like you have got some good knowledge there already from running the other car,and some good parts to use on the next one,the 4.12 R&P is proberly going to be a little short for a nitrous car depending on what 4th gear you have and what tyres you will use?

cheers richie

I have seen a few cars that can run low 11's with mild combos..Two i can think of off the bat.. one a light bracket car that ran mid 12's at around 104-105 with a 2054 a 60 hp shot with very little tuning ran 11.17 at 117.. .. the other a 12.80 1915 IDA motor street sedan that ran 11.17 at 119 with a good sized shot. That 2 or three tenths is no problem those small motors made about 145-150 HP off the jug... All you need is a 2165-2276 built  about 9.0- 9.5 CB perf Pro Gas motor... Put it in a light car with decent gearing.... then slap a shot on it.. work the jetting until the number is reached..   Doubt it will take more thana 60-75 hit and  6000-7000 total.. 

convert it to IRS,

Going to do a how to?

so is it done now? 


 ;D

best wishes already and i'll be watching this tread for some info on an IRS conversion.  ;)

Hi Ant

do you think its needed? there are some out there already and what I do is not much different? I wasnt planning on it as when I start I just tend to keep going until its done,I dont remember to take photos along the way ;)

cheers richie

No i use the swingaxle torsion housing,I just cut the frame forks to allow the irs brackets to fit in,I have a jig to hold them in the correct place,then weld them in and swap the spring plates to irs version,also you need to clearance the factory cast body support bracket to clear the irs arm to allow more travel and depending on what year the car is and what cvs you are going to use,sometimes I have to clearance the frame fork for the inner cv


cheers richie

Sounds pretty straight forward, cheers.

The rain held off long enough to get it on the scales today,this is what a near stock RHD 67 weighs,it was missing the rear bumper,1 headlight and the wiper motor, 

Interesting stuff. So thats around 785kgs in total if I've read the scales right?

I'm having my '72 corner weighted soon so wondering what it will weigh. This gives me a good idea - no bumpers on mine, day mouldings wings and glass engine lid, but a little bit of extra interior with modern seats and full rear seat... Maybe 750-800?

Yes,that 785kg is about right,I noticed later on it didn't have a battery in it either so that would need to be added.

It will suprise you how much weight is added by the whole big engine thing,and as they went on through the years beetles got heavier

cheers richie

I'd guess that most fibreglass panels are as heavy, if not heavier than steel items. I'm going for a set of repro steel wings - they're noticeably lighter than original steels.

Haha you should really get a set of day moulding raceweight wings. They are LIGHT!!! ;D ;D

Michael

Haha you should really get a set of day moulding raceweight wings. They are LIGHT!!! ;D ;D

Michael

Shhhh!!!! we dont want the wait for them to get longer ;)

Neil there is proberly something in the weight saving thread that gives the weight for them all? if not I will weigh some I have and see what the difference is

cheers richie

my mahles have been coping with over 100 pases this season on the gas and 16 of those was a 100hp shot so id be suprised is wisecos would go tits on a measly 50 shot :D
do it efi and nitrous is a much better setup than a set of those silly door stops  :o :D

richie
i get my jets from exup racing in bolton, from dyno power runs last week i found 96fwhp jets gave me 92fwhp on the dyno with 120 octane race fuel  and 6 degrees retard not sure what calculator he uses but seems pretty close ?i always get a fuel jet either side and run the mix a bit rich so im sure if i leaned it out a bit on the jets it would make the extra hp but tend to keep it rich and lose a few hp :-[

Danny/Ritchie, just a quick question please?
I tried the single jet at the solenoid a few times, the only time it really worked well for me was with short feed lines to the nozzles and a NO2 jet over 0.025", under that it seemed to stutter and be inconsistent (on a bike). It is quite likely it was me that screwed it up, I was using 5mm Mikuni jets into the inlet of a splitter to jet. Fuel always seemed OK though.
What single jet set up did you guys run?
Without mentioning brand names as such, I had intended to get solenoids/nozzles from a UK company, but it's a long way to go from Oz just to get another system that may not work due to my ineptitude!
Any advice welcomed.

17000,-e = fresh/strong 2.9 type 4(10), dogring gearbox + raceaxles(4), streetslicks+racewheels(1), any beetle body(2) + plasma for one evening... ;D and low 10s is there... That simple it is.

good info 8) worthy of a post in weight saving thread i reckon :) i will weigh eastcoast gassers rear flared wings for another comparison :)

Good info Rich
I've got some of Robs panels, not got anything that accurate to measure with though, I'll see what I can find!

rear east coast  gasser wings about 2kgs  ;)

I know its veering off into the weight saving thread, but what do you consider the optimal overall weight and front/rear weight balance to be? It would be useful to mix and match parts to get the balance right.

Anything over 35% front is good,over 40% front is real good,but I think it comes down to several factors,what good useable panels etc you already have,budget and what you are trying for, for just a race car I would replace all the bolt on stuff with lighter were I could,then if needed put the weight back in were i wanted/needed it,low down right at the front with some lead bar

cheers Richie

What did you find out?

cheers Richie

I bought some reasonable quality fishing scales 11 years ago to keep check of the nitrous bottle weights and still use them, simple and cheap enough

cheers Richie

Fishermen always lie though! ;)

number plate light unit

cheers Richie

Cast aluminium, not iron ;)

Cast aluminium, not iron ;)

He is probably thinking of all those VWs made in Detroit.

The old 65 and later ones are heavy cast iron, but the Mexican ones are lite fiberglass (original hella).
Didn t way the difference, but I thought it was a huge difference.

Regards Edgar

Hi Richie,

Ron Barrett here from the US.  What a great thread!  I just finished reading the entire thread.  It's now 11:50pm and past my bedtime.  I don't think you'll have any problems getting into the 10's with your setup.  While our Pro Gas car isn't a street car it has run a best of 10.76 @ 123.18mph weighing 1725lbs with Kevin in it.  Even though you wouldn't want to run the 14.9 to 1 that we do, you could still get away with around 10 to 1 (that's as long as you run a cam with a fair amount of overlap to lower the actual cylinder pressure a bit).  That early post had the right idea.  Get Jo's car dialed and then put a 100 shot on it.  Heck, 9's wouldn't be out of the question.  I guess convincing Jo would be the hardest part.  LOL

Hi Ron


thanks,

 it will be in the fall I think, but will let you know nearer the time, the car is all together, would like to get the heads freshened and some new springs but hopefully that's all it needs for now

cheers Richie

That's good to hear about Jo's car but I was talking about your new 10 second street car.  Let me know if you still need any parts for that project.  I'm very interested in this thread.  I haven't used nitrous since early 1973.  I'll tell you that ancient story some time.

Cheers Ron

Ritchie I am doing very similar head wise although starting with bare casting with no seats or guides and doing my own to use old nascar valves etc and keep the ports small enough for the street.

Also so I can pick my valve sizes to suit running a lot of gas.

I had considered the 46x40 heads initially to help get the extra gas out from running on the bottle and still be able to run an off the shelf cam, what's your thoughts on that??

I dropped that idea in favour of doing my own after a conversation where I discovered the comp elims have the same valve seat for both 46 & 48 intakes, apparently the throat and seat are way to big for a 46 valve and the flow figures are terrible. I know your working with off the shelf parts but would the 40 exhaust valve be of more use?

I have also worked a plan out to add some additional cooling into the stock fins which I am keen to try out also to try and keep the temps down on the street I'm just awaiting a little more info on the final width/depth ratio for maximum efficiency from a guy who specialises in heat management for modern electronics and motors. the plan is to machine some smaller narrower and shallower slots into the 4 middle fins leaving the outer fins thick to stop them being damaged to easily. This should add a decent amount of extra surface area if done correctly.

Dave

So now that you are that close to have a complete car, how about setting a time goal for this project? I think the ultimate test would be to drive it to SCC 2014, race it there and drive it back home  ;D

(oh yes, I am trying to trick you to come to SCC next year also ;) )

Hi Richy,

Good to see you re starting this project again.
My floorpan is nearly finished and will be primed soon. When the car is finished I also will be using nitrous. Does the nitrous need any mods to the floorpan that I should do before I am priming it?

Cheers Paul.
[/quote

Hi Paul

so you want to finish the pan and not change you mind and do it again?  :o :D  I don't believe it ??? ;D

Where will you mount the bottle? then were will you run the main nitrous feed line to the solenoid? then if you have the bottle in the car with you it must have a vent tube to outside the cabin

cheers Richie

Hi Paul

so you want to finish the pan and not change you mind and do it again?  :o :D  I don't believe it ??? ;D

Where will you mount the bottle? then were will you run the main nitrous feed line to the solenoid? then if you have the bottle in the car with you it must have a vent tube to outside the cabin

cheers Richie

Well with another winter here and no racing to occupy me I have returned to this car/plans. I have bought some parts over the the last few months for this and am actually quite near have everything to create a running driving car.

I got a good deal on a pair of heads, manifolds[ida pattern] and CB ratio rockers so these are what I will use.

The engine spec is complete[ well in my head anyway ;D ]
2276
Mag case, usual mods
DPR welded crank with matching flywheel
Scat rods
Wiseco pistons
AA cylinders


CB comp eliminator heads & match ported iDA pattern manifolds
CB 1.4 ratio rockers
Engle cam, Scat lifters
Scat sump
Stock VW head studs, 8mm
WBX push rod tubes
Manton push rods[ I would really like to try ally push rods but they are to expensive to fit this criteria]
1 3/4 header

  

Hi Paul

so you want to finish the pan and not change you mind and do it again?  :o :D  I don't believe it ??? ;D

Where will you mount the bottle? then were will you run the main nitrous feed line to the solenoid? then if you have the bottle in the car with you it must have a vent tube to outside the cabin

cheers Richie

woahahahahahaha ;-)

Michael

 
Hey Richie,

Glad to hear your back onto this project and look forward to reading the progress updates and the results of test n tune next year  

Any tech details for us on what valve sizes you went for in the Comp Elims, what Compression Ratio your aiming for ?

How about cam grind and rod length ?

Are you planning to run radials out back or DOT's or Slicks ?

You had a completely valid point up at Shakey last year when you ribbed me over the use of DOT's and I'm now thinking next year of just running radials  

Cheers,

Shane.

Hi Rich,
Be nice :D.
Yes I want to finish it, I already changed my mind so many times I think I am done changing.
The bottle will be in the rear seat area. I am thinking to keep all the solenoids and stuff somewhere in the gearbox area and the vent line can go trough the luggage compartment floor. But this has nothing to do with the chassis. The fuelpump will be mounted up front and I already have two big fuel lines trough the chassis.

Cheers Paul.

im thinking about a how much to run 10s in a street legal vert project  :D

Been there, seen it, done it :P   Hope you actually try though, it would be interesting to see how you get on compared to my efforts back then


Shane

somewhere around 80hp should do it, a lot of it will depend on what the car ends up weighing.

I figure I should be able to put as much in as the engine makes N/A so about 180/190hp more, maybe I can turn it into "how much money to run 9s in a street car" then  :o ;)


cheers Richie

i dont want to put a cage in the car and fuck going fast without one  :o :D

how fast didi you go on gas in th vert? out of intrest?

what size tyres will you fit on the gas burners? and what is the maximum size without too much compromise in safety, handling,… ?

Richie!
Do you need some Raceware cylinder/head studs for the engine? I have new sets in mid january (8 & 10 mm).
Johan

Hi Johan,

they dont sound cheap unless you are giving me some?  :D   I will just use stock vw 8mm studs, they work fine for what I am doing


cheers Richie

The old nitrous engine was just 8 dowelled and it held up ok so no reason it cant work, wedgemating is just extra insurance. A lot depends on how its put together, some people seem to manage to break the flywheel off easy, others don't, I can't explain why that is  ???.


cheers Richie

just use a really big spanner to tighten it up lee  ;)  :D

Serious question on a related note - what gland nut will you use Richie?

HI Richie,

You're mentioning that you wanted to put the ally pushrods but they are "to expensive" to meet the criteria? As i see you bought some genuine Gasburners...even at a very modest pricelevel you said? So then i really doubt that the ally pushrods wouldn't meet the criteria regarding "budget" if you don't mind me asking???
I suppose the gasburners weren't for free neither?
So let's be honest; You're really looking on 200€ for Ally pushrods? Or is it just because you doubt they will hold on with the K-800 springs?
I'm just asking cause i came across your topic which is again a nice challenge,but i would really like to see you use something different instead of the old trusted "engle camshaft" and the manton chromo noise-knockers...anyway you proved more then once you can "bend those manton suckers" as a cigarette with two fingers !! ;D ;D ;D

Hang on Buddy!

All the best Steve.

And finally I intend pushing this engine to the limit and way beyond after I achieve the 10 sec drive to the track and back goals, just to see how quick it will go and I don't want to leave a lot of very expensive parts in the trash can at the track  :o :'( cheap stuff I am fine with :D

cheers Richie

Time to stock up on more nappies?

lee i dont think there is much cost difference in efi over a pair of decent 51 idas and a full msd setup

I did a search on a EFI kit and with just needing a fuel pump and lines you are looking at about £1800-2000 for a complete set up inc fuel pressure reg even & everything else needed.

For 48 ida set up with good used Italian IDAs or New Spanish  and all the MSD stuff needed with a 2 step as well[ EFI has all this included already] so with MSD dizzy, coil, 6Al-2 box & leads and a pair of IDAs with new vents you are looking at around £1550-1700  so their is not a lot of difference and you don't need a big jet box either :o ;D

cheers Richie

 

please tell me more about the oiling system. i am still debating whether to use the original cooler or not and what would be the benefit/drawback of each setup.

Any more progress Richie?

Enough talking has been done so time do actually make this happen. So starting with the engine, I am not going to go into every detail, we all know the basis of what makes them work :)
I am going to use remote oil pressure relief so 1st thing was to block off the bleed hole for the pulley end oil plunger, simple drill out and tap for a plug, at the flywheel end I just use two plungers and shorten one slightly so they are bottomed out tight when the plug is fitted.
Then everything got cleaned and assembled, short motor now together so deck height next

cheers Richie

Is this something that may be worth doing for a milder street engine that is being rebuilt soon?

idiot question prehaps, but how many shims are used in an IRS setup (between the brackets) and are they left and right from the arms?
it's that i have never had a setup that was original or complete to start with.

Hi Nicolas


2 washer/shims per side on everything i have worked on, and they seem to usually seem to be on the same side of the arm, mainly on the inside next to the frame fork but i do set the ones I convert to one on each side

cheers Richie

Now the frame forks have been clearanced.  They seem a lot thinner than stock.  What do you think the chances of bending are?  I know you have seam welded them which will add some strength, but they just look fragile to me.

never see people do that on streetcars??? is that because of space problems.???
It lowers the tires neatly in the wings also.

^^ this and why not just raise the trans like +/- 2cm... never see people do that on streetcars??? is that because of space problems.???
It lowers the tires neatly in the wings also.

Now the frame forks have been clearanced.  They seem a lot thinner than stock.  What do you think the chances of bending are?  I know you have seam welded them which will add some strength, but they just look fragile to me.

Then you have to look closer. Lowering the rear "Pro Stock" style is more or less a standard lowering method in Sweden  :) Not everyone like the style and you do run into some other challenges too.

Best rgs
BB

Do they do raised torsion housing or just raised trans?

cheers Richie

I know the intention of this post was to build a 10 sec street car cheap... but fuck me by the time this is finished we wont be allowed to use pump gas cars on the street (2008-2015) even Wray could beat this....

Now sitting back and waiting for the abuse  ;D

Happy New Year.

They raise the torsion housing. I have plenty of pics if interested.

Best rgs
BB

Raising an IRS trans doesnt do anything to the tyres height, what is does do though is move the engine up the same amount creating several issues, shroud can hit decklid hinges, big carbs or throttle bodies hit decklid, engine tin doesnt seal round edges anymore, standard merged header hits rear apron

 
cheers Richie

Please do, but it wont gain any cv to frame fork clearance will it?

cheers Richie

What paint finish have you got planned? Are you blasting before paint?
Lee

Take it to Aberdeen and we can blast here, also I have a frame head base if required

Cheers


Russell

Where did the CR land? Which cam did you go for? Settle on 5.4" rods?

that shell looks better everytime I look at it.... why not do a full show job on it....

hey that looks familiar  ;D

I did see yours

Twins seperated at birth?  :D

Where can i find more i really like this car and this look , perfect for a future project , any links ?

Hi Richie,
You work far too fast, its depressing me:)
Did you drill the discs yourself? What's with the two sets of holes?
Lee

don't forget the drain holes on the window repairs

Hi Andy

I haven't thought about what filter yet, I will put the part number up for the pump tomorrow, its nothing fancy[read its cheap  :D ]

cheers Richie