First stroker build

[Zach Gomulka]

clearanced stock VW rods be a solid enough bet?

They will be more than enough for your application.

[Jim Ratto]

Ryan, Dave Mason's 11 sec 78 stroke car runs stock VW rods right up to 9000rpm. I think you'll be ok.
Note: you may have to do some hand clearancing in your case. I run RIMCO Vw rods and had to dress lower webs a little to clear. No big deal, like i said.... even Bates can do it. 

[bugnut68]

Ryan, Dave Mason's 11 sec 78 stroke car runs stock VW rods right up to 9000rpm. I think you'll be ok.
Note: you may have to do some hand clearancing in your case. I run RIMCO Vw rods and had to dress lower webs a little to clear. No big deal, like i said.... even Bates can do it. 

That's enough of an endorsement for me   I'm definitely aware of Mason's car... beautiful ride and fast to boot.  I've been trying to decide whether to have a set of rods I have already done by Rimco or just buy a set already done and use my rods as exchange cores... I think it would be more cost effective to do the latter, judging by the labor involved and what not.

[stealth67vw]

You can buy a set of new set of H Beam CB rods with ARP 2000 bolts for $5 more than rebuilt Rimco Supers and you don't need to deal with the core hassle. I like H-beams because they are lighter, stronger and take less clearancing and they are not 35 year old recycled rods.

http://rimcovw.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=181

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=152

[Donny B.]

I personally don't like the RIMCO Super rods.  I think that large bolt and the enlarged hole to accommodate it make the rod cap weaker.  I once asked Clyde why the Bergs did not do that on their rebuilt rods.  He told me that the bolt isn't what breaks it's the cap.  Go for the H-Beam rods.  That is a nice price for a great rod. 

[Jim Ratto]

Some of the aftermarket rods don't like welded cranks Ryan. Not a fluke either, I've seen it off and on for about 15 years. The side clearances have been inconsistent on a bunch of sets I have "tried" using. From memory, most of these were the Eagle rods. Never tried CB's. About 2 years ago, I went through it myself, Eagle 5.352 on a 78 DPR, the side clearances were far too tight. Tried a different DPR, same thing. tried a forged 78 same thing.  Same crank, but with a Vw rod, fell into place with .012-014". I've run Rimco rods up to 7000+ in more motors than I can remember and as far as I know, zero of the motors I have built (for others) have scattered. I know Bates had some issues with side clearances with his Bugpack 78 and whatever H beams he's running. Back in 1991 I was building my 2276 even the good old Bugpack Race rods I was using had to be sent out and narrowed.
For a hot street motor, for me, because of past frustrations with inconsistent fit, I'll stay with Rimcos VW's.

[bugnut68]

I appreciate the information, the more info I can gather beforehand the better off I am, I reckon!

[stealth67vw]

My issues with the CB H beams and my Bugpack 78 were too wide of a side clearance. I originally bought Berg 191s VW rods but only had .010 side clearance (.895" width) which I think is too tight.

A set of new CB rods popped up cheap so I sold the Berg rods and now my side clearance is .019-.020" (.885 width). I've been told by many pro and experienced builders it is wide but acceptable so I'm gonna run them for now.

[bugnut68]

Next question: for clearancing the case, what is the best method to utilize?  I dont' have any air tools... best I can manage is a Dremel type rotary tool at this point... I realize I'll likely be working mucho time-o in getting things right, but just wondering as to what kind of "attachments" to utilize?  Or would it be better for me to send the case off to have it clearanced by RIMCO or somebody similar?

[Bruce]

.... would clearanced stock VW rods be a solid enough bet? 

That's all you need.  Anything else is a waste of $$$.  Clearanced stock rods fit 78 stroke engines easily.

[181]

Next question: for clearancing the case, what is the best method to utilize?  I dont' have any air tools... best I can manage is a Dremel type rotary tool at this point... I realize I'll likely be working mucho time-o in getting things right, but just wondering as to what kind of "attachments" to utilize?  Or would it be better for me to send the case off to have it clearanced by RIMCO or somebody similar?

Dremel is good for some small clearancing and "adjustments" but if you have a new "basic" crankcase I would send it to Rimco or Brothers.. 

[Zach Gomulka]

I thought RIMCO closed their doors??

[bugnut68]

I thought RIMCO closed their doors??

Under new ownership, I believe, but not closed?  I'm pretty sure that's the situation.  Their web site is still up and running...

[stealth67vw]

Yep, new owner is Dennis Hildebrand, a long time employee. They (Rimco) leased the building from the new building owners as the Riddles sold the building.

[bugnut68]

I just checked out DPR's web site today, and they offer clearance rods as well.. think I may just go ahead and go with them, seeing as how I already got a crank from them.

[bugnut68]

As for other internals, what's the hot ticket for lifters these days?  I'm assuming that I want to keep the valvetrain components as light as possible... I know there were some issues with Scat lifters in previous years.  Just curious as to what would work well in my application.

[bugnut68]

Here are the preliminary stats of what I'm building to date:

2017cc
78.4 DPR crank
90.5 'B' pistons
8.5 or 9:1 compression
40x35.5 or 40x37 heads
dual 45DRLA Dellortos
1-5/8 or 1-3/4 exhaust
lightened flywheel
and other details not necessarily pertinent to the question at hand...

I'm still debating between using a set of existing 1.1 VW rockers with an Engle 125 cam or buying a set of 1.4s to use with an FK-8 cam. I've been told in this thread, I think, that the FK-8 and 1.4's won't be as hard on the lifter bores, which has appeal for longevity sake, but on the other hand, this won't be a daily driver engine by any stretch. Ideal powerband will be from 2 to 6K RPMs.
 
Still wondering about lifters too?

Any suggestions on clutch and pressure plate? Car, a '70 Bug currently with little to no interior, with stock 4.12 IRS tranny, will be driven occasionally on the street, bracket raced on weekends here and there in the local 1/8 mile. I was thinking a 1700 KEP plate, but not sure what the hot ticket is for discs these days...

[Jim Ratto]

Here are the preliminary stats of what I'm building to date:

2017cc
78.4 DPR crank
90.5 'B' pistons
8.5 or 9:1 compression
40x35.5 or 40x37 heads
dual 45DRLA Dellortos
1-5/8 or 1-3/4 exhaust
lightened flywheel
and other details not necessarily pertinent to the question at hand...

I'm still debating between using a set of existing 1.1 VW rockers with an Engle 125 cam or buying a set of 1.4s to use with an FK-8 cam. I've been told in this thread, I think, that the FK-8 and 1.4's won't be as hard on the lifter bores, which has appeal for longevity sake, but on the other hand, this won't be a daily driver engine by any stretch. Ideal powerband will be from 2 to 6K RPMs.
 
Still wondering about lifters too?

Any suggestions on clutch and pressure plate? Car, a '70 Bug currently with little to no interior, with stock 4.12 IRS tranny, will be driven occasionally on the street, bracket raced on weekends here and there in the local 1/8 mile. I was thinking a 1700 KEP plate, but not sure what the hot ticket is for discs these days...

I tend to use the Daikin/Exedy metal woven disc.  I've run two in my '67 since 1990. But I never drive my car...