Engine and parts help... mild road engine project

[Nico86]

Yes I think I will do that and get the bearings later. 

[Nico86]

Wondering about the oil-cooler, maybe I'll put a type4 cooler... that won't be too much compared to the type1 cooler? By too much I mean is there a chance that it doesn't allow the engine to reach a correct temp, or that's just benefit to put it?

[Diederick/DVK]

i don't think there's a need for that nico!
a few of my clubmates run larger engines and have no external cooler and have oil temps of 80 degrees celsius.
but that's just my view on it. i think a type 4 cooler is overkill. you're better off with a nice external cooler.

[Nico86]

No I don't want an external cooler. Swapping the type1 cooler for a type4 is quick and easy, that's all I would do with the oil-cooler... The car would be used from -10°C in winter to +30°C in summer...

[Zach Gomulka]

I wouldn't bother for those temps. Put a small diameter 356/912 gen pulley on there (later, if needed) and cool your heads and oil more. It will also make your heater work better.

[Nico86]

Thanks guys, I'll stick to type1 specs, and if needed later with type4 cooler/smaller pulley if it's not enough.

[Nico86]

I wanted to get Bosch W8AC spark plugs, but I was told that current Bosch's are not as good as they used to be... The equivalent NGK B5HS are better?

[Nico86]

I wanted to get Bosch W8AC spark plugs, but I was told that current Bosch's are not as good as they used to be... The equivalent NGK B5HS are better?

And for the camshaft, the lobe center I need is 108° like Engle's? Because with SLR cams you can choose 106,108 or 110.

And I'm looking where to get HD aluminium pushrods, all I can see at Vee Dub Parts or CSP are standard aluminium, not HD...
I found this Bugpack aluminum HD kit http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12-4054 but it's out of stock.

Edit : I found the aircooled.net 3/8" aluminium HD pushrods : http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECV0010&cartid= what do you think?

[Diederick/DVK]

they're the ones nico!
different lobe center alters the character of the cam as far as I know, maybe something to look into?

[Nico86]

they're the ones nico!

They are more expensives than Bugpack or chromoly, but they seem to be damn strong!

different lobe center alters the character of the cam as far as I know, maybe something to look into?

Most cams are 108 (Engle, Web-Cam, CB, Scat, Berg...). I'll go with this, otherwise I'll start thinking and calculating for days and days again 

[Zach Gomulka]

I'd stick with the 108

[Nico86]

I'd stick with the 108

 


And as you said Ted, bearings for the DPR 74 crank are 0.010 under on mains and std on rods. I'll ask Berg for some main steel backed and Clevite 77 VW rod bearings.


And I'm getting Diederick's Rimco Super Rods (already clearanced and balanced).

[Jim Ratto]

what size venturies do you have for your 40IDF's Nico?

[Nico86]

what size venturies do you have for your 40IDF's Nico?

I'll check that this weekend, they were on a 1776 before I bought them.

[Nico86]

I'll use the aircooled.net alu HD pushrods http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECV0010&cartid=

There are 3 length available : 11.600"
                                           11.350"
                                           11.060" (very close to the stock 1600 engine lenght)

You think I should buy the 11.060" already assembled (stock is 10.935" )? Or get longer rods and cut them to stock length myself?

[fredy66]

I'll use the aircooled.net alu HD pushrods http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECV0010&cartid=

There are 3 length available : 11.600"
                                           11.350"
                                           11.060" (very close to the stock 1600 engine lenght)

You think I should buy the 11.060" already assembled (stock is 10.935" )? Or get longer rods and cut them to stock length myself?

was wondering the same ting may self for my engine

[Nico86]

I'll use the aircooled.net alu HD pushrods http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECV0010&cartid=

There are 3 length available : 11.600"
                                           11.350"
                                           11.060" (very close to the stock 1600 engine lenght)

You think I should buy the 11.060" already assembled (stock is 10.935" )? Or get longer rods and cut them to stock length myself?

was wondering the same ting may self for my engine

On this page they say it's better if they assemble the pushrods, of course you pay $40 more for this...

[Nico86]

I'll use the aircooled.net alu HD pushrods http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECV0010&cartid=

There are 3 length available : 11.600"
                                           11.350"
                                           11.060" (very close to the stock 1600 engine lenght)

You think I should buy the 11.060" already assembled (stock is 10.935" )? Or get longer rods and cut them to stock length myself?

What does they mean by "These pushrods have a counterbore, so get the shortest pushrod that is longer than you need." ??

Means for example as I need stock length pushrods (10.938") I should get the 11.060" already assembled? Or I'd better get the longest ones (11.600"), check the length I need with the pushrods measuring tool and cut it?

[TexasTom]

I'll use the aircooled.net alu HD pushrods http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECV0010&cartid=

There are 3 length available : 11.600"
                                           11.350"
                                           11.060" (very close to the stock 1600 engine lenght)

You think I should buy the 11.060" already assembled (stock is 10.935" )? Or get longer rods and cut them to stock length myself?

What does they mean by "These pushrods have a counterbore, so get the shortest pushrod that is longer than you need." ??

Means for example as I need stock length pushrods (10.938") I should get the 11.060" already assembled? Or I'd better get the longest ones (11.600"), check the length I need with the pushrods measuring tool and cut it?

Nico,
It means the ends of the pushrods have a larger bore to accommodate the steel tips than the center section bore (think more strength).
You really need to measure before purchasing.
Once the long-block is finished and complete, only then is it possible to find the true pushrod length needed. Buy or make an adjustable unit (can be made from an old pushrod).
Since you're going with a 74mm crank, things will be different from stock; Not to mention whether you'll be using any shims for deck height adjustment/compression ratio, stock or swivel-feet adjusters(?), etc.
It is likely you'll need something longer than stock length ...
Measure twice, cut once

[Nico86]

Ok I see now  Then I'll buy it later when the long-block will be ready, since I will have to check the compression ratio and set the valve train with Scat rockers and swivel feet adjusters etc...
Thanks Tom!

[Nico86]

Crank and flywheel are coming from Jose at DPR, and parts for the long-block from Berg and Vee Dub Parts.

[Nico86]

Thanks Died 

[Nico86]

While the parts are coming, I've been thinking about the work to do on the parts for the long-block. Everything that can be balanced will be done, of course everything will be cleaned/deburred/smooth.


Heads (will not see the big work as they are temporary)
-clean intakes and outtakes
-clean combustion chambers
-set chambers cc, deck height and CR
-valve seats


Case
-check the clearance for the 74 crank
-clean and smooth the inside
-drill for full flow
-modify the oil pick-up tube
-VHT paint

- will you do this kind of work or it's not necessary : http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,8007.msg121690.html#msg121690
                                                                           http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2007-05-01T00%3A00%3A00-07%3A00&updated-max=2007-06-01T00%3A00%3A00-07%3A00&max-results=10


Crank
-balanced with clutch and pulley


Rods and pistons
-balance and clean the rods
-balance pistons/rings/clips
-do you paint the cylinders?


Valve train
-measure pushrod length
-balance the rockers arms
-cut the oil groove on the lifters as SLR lifters are already refinned and treated I can even do this?


Let me know if I (and I must have) forgot something.  

[Nico86]

While the parts are coming, I've been thinking about the work to do on the parts for the long-block. Everything that can be balanced will be done, of course everything will be cleaned/deburred/smooth.


Heads (will not see the big work as they are temporary)
-clean intakes and outtakes
-clean combustion chambers
-set chambers cc, deck height and CR
-valve seats


Case
-check the clearance for the 74 crank
-clean and smooth the inside
-drill for full flow
-modify the oil pick-up tube
-VHT paint

- will you do this kind of work or it's not necessary : http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,8007.msg121690.html#msg121690
                                                                           http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2007-05-01T00%3A00%3A00-07%3A00&updated-max=2007-06-01T00%3A00%3A00-07%3A00&max-results=10


Crank
-balanced with clutch and pulley


Rods and pistons
-balance and clean the rods
-balance pistons/rings/clips
-do you paint the cylinders?


Valve train
-measure pushrod length
-balance the rockers arms
-cut the oil groove on the lifters as SLR lifters are already refinned and treated I can even do this?


Let me know if I (and I must have) forgot something.  

 

[Zach Gomulka]

I did follow the case "porting" thread on my engine. I did not do the Bob Hoover mods, Steve Hollingsworth did my machine work and I trust that if he did not do it, it is not necessary

I will paint the cylinders. If nothing else, it keeps them from rusting and looking like crap.

I did not cut the groove in my lifters, mainly because I didn't have a clean, precise way of doing the modification. And stock works so I went with that.

[Nico86]

Thanks Zach  I've found VHT Paint for motorcycle barrels and case.

I could use a Dremel or something like this for the lifters, but I don't know if I can find a strong enough tool to cut the lifters. And I feel a bit "guilty" to cut some freshly refinished/parko-polished lifters 

[fredy66]

Thanks Zach  I've found VHT Paint for motorcycle barrels and case.

I could use a Dremel or something like this for the lifters, but I don't know if I can find a strong enough tool to cut the lifters. And I feel a bit "guilty" to cut some freshly refinished/parko-polished lifters 

I have refinished german lifters to and i'm not cuting them

[Nico86]

Thanks Zach  I've found VHT Paint for motorcycle barrels and case.

I could use a Dremel or something like this for the lifters, but I don't know if I can find a strong enough tool to cut the lifters. And I feel a bit "guilty" to cut some freshly refinished/parko-polished lifters 

I have refinished german lifters to and i'm not cuting them

Yep, I'm afraid to create sharp edges (even if I polish it again after cutting) and ruin the smoothness and sliding effect of the parts.

[Nico86]

Got the SLR camshaft and Wiesman lifters + a few bits : Mahle cyl. kit, Scat rockers, CB cam gears, clutch kit, etc...

[Zach Gomulka]

COOL