Engine and parts help... mild road engine project

[Nico86]

COOL

Can't wait to receive everything and start working 

[Nico86]

 

[dirk.nl]

great stuff dpr cranks are a work of art, i have a 82 dpr in my 2110, verry nice for a decent price.

[Nico86]

Picked-up my parts from Berg today. Now I have everything I need to start working on the block (except the oil pump that was out of stock, but I'll need it later). Maybe first assembly tests and measures during the weekend. I also got some Dirko HT sealant.

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One thing I'm wondering about mounting shuffle-pins, the case need to be machined? I don't plan to use it, just wondering.

[TexasTom]

Picked-up my parts from Berg today. Now I have everything I need to start working on the block (except the oil pump that was out of stock, but I'll need it later). Maybe first assembly tests and measures during the weekend. I also got some Dirko HT sealant.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]



One thing I'm wondering about mounting shuffle-pins, the case need to be machined? I don't plan to use it, just wondering.

Now you're talkin! Munch on some ZOTZ and put that thing together! LOL

[DKK Ted]

Hey Nico, see you got some parts now, cool! So what are the specs on the cam from SLR? FYI, you can have Engle grind cam's at 106 LC, I did. Had Chris at Engle through VDub Parts, grind me a E125 @ 106 LC, brings the power band down. And with a stroker! Look out!! Things are coming along good, can't wait to see this monster go together. Your doing all the right things, and your not rushing, that's good. Take your time, check and double check everything. It'll all be worth it. Keep posting updates. I myself will be done with my 2303cc backup motor with that E125 very soon, going through my own challenges, but will get through it.

Ted

[DKK Ted]

Just thinking, whats the reason for the aluminum push rods, quieter, less weight? I use Manton Chromemoly push rods, strong and a very good push rod. Manton is here in SoCal or JC push rods, (there the same push rods). Manton will cut them and install the ends for the same price, a better deal, and they are fast. You can call them with the length and they'll get it done and shipped right away. Which also brings up about doing the your geometry for your push rods. Motor must be done, setup with an adjustable push rod, once you got it make the call to who ever you decide to do your push rods. The only thing I find with the Manton or any chromoly push rod is adjusting them at 0 to .001 clearance. Thats what I adjust mine at. Good luck!

Ted

[Nico86]

Now you're talkin! Munch on some ZOTZ and put that thing together! LOL

I need to find bags of this in Europe !!   

[Nico86]

Hey Nico, see you got some parts now, cool! So what are the specs on the cam from SLR? FYI, you can have Engle grind cam's at 106 LC, I did. Had Chris at Engle through VDub Parts, grind me a E125 @ 106 LC, brings the power band down. And with a stroker! Look out!! Things are coming along good, can't wait to see this monster go together. Your doing all the right things, and your not rushing, that's good. Take your time, check and double check everything. It'll all be worth it. Keep posting updates. I myself will be done with my 2303cc backup motor with that E125 very soon, going through my own challenges, but will get through it.

Ted

Hey Ted  I got the XV290 cam (108 LC), grinds in-between the E110 and the E120. I also talked with the guys at Vee Dub Parts and they told me about that one for a road/rally engine. First steps will be to clean the case and check the clearance with the crank, compression-ratio etc... Thankfully my Dad knows what to do and will help me for all this, I'll work under good surveillance 
I'm taking my time for this, I learned a lot whille reading, looking for and asking for infos about this engine. If everything goes the way it's supposed to go, we will do all the work at home, except balancing the crank with the clutch assembly.

Just thinking, whats the reason for the aluminum push rods, quieter, less weight? I use Manton Chromemoly push rods, strong and a very good push rod. Manton is here in SoCal or JC push rods, (there the same push rods). Manton will cut them and install the ends for the same price, a better deal, and they are fast. You can call them with the length and they'll get it done and shipped right away. Which also brings up about doing the your geometry for your push rods. Motor must be done, setup with an adjustable push rod, once you got it make the call to who ever you decide to do your push rods. The only thing I find with the Manton or any chromoly push rod is adjusting them at 0 to .001 clearance. Thats what I adjust mine at. Good luck!

Ted

I still didn't bought the pushrods at the moment. I was thinking about the Aircooled.net aluminium pushrods to make things easier for the valve train, I think they are strong enough for my engine?? (I have 1.1 rockers)
Anyways I have the pushrod tool to measure the correct length when the block will be done, and my local machine-shop is able to have them cut to length and assembled correctly.

[Nico86]

Started the "dirty" work on the outside of the case.

[Diederick/DVK]

wow! so you don't need that paint after all 

[Nico86]

wow! so you don't need that paint after all  

  no I will paint it even though, I'm just having fun with metal brushes 

[Nico86]

Plans for the cleaning of the inside of the case, things that can be done at home :

- deburr and smooth everything
- enlarge the air flow around the main bearings area (under all bearings and top and bottom of the central bearing)
- enlarge oil grooves on the cam bearings locations
- I will also remove and replace the main oil gallery plug in order to clean it (and the plug for the full-flow will be removed anyways)


I have 2 question :
- would you remove ALL the oil galleries plugs to clean them??
- would your weld the back of the 3rd cylinder like this : http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_JU6RC7jJfRc/Rlo38bbTluI/AAAAAAAAARk/1-JNGRZZ_bk/s1600/WELDED%2B%233.JPG ??

[Nico86]

I have 2 question :
- would you remove ALL the oil galleries plugs to clean them??
- would your weld the back of the 3rd cylinder like this : http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_JU6RC7jJfRc/Rlo38bbTluI/AAAAAAAAARk/1-JNGRZZ_bk/s1600/WELDED%2B%233.JPG ??

And I was also wondering what material should I use to replace the filter in my breathing box? Steel wool (like in a stock air filter) would work? I have the grill screen but the filter was missing when I got it.

[danny gabbard]

How about a scotch-brite pad ? nylon scrub pad.

[markvo]

Foam will work, there really shouldn't be any oil up there anyway but if you happen to get some up there you can just ring it out!

[Nico86]

Thanks guys, I think I will use a foam filter element.

I have 2 question :
- would you remove ALL the oil galleries plugs to clean them??
- would your weld the back of the 3rd cylinder like this : http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_JU6RC7jJfRc/Rlo38bbTluI/AAAAAAAAARk/1-JNGRZZ_bk/s1600/WELDED%2B%233.JPG ??

I've decided to take the time to remove all the oil plugs and clean all the oil galleries. Then I will drill and tap, and replace the plugs with BTR bolts and Loctite.





What about welding the back of the case behind 3rd cylinder? Necessary or not?

[Zach Gomulka]

What about welding the back of the case behind 3rd cylinder? Necessary or not?

Not

[Nico86]

What about welding the back of the case behind 3rd cylinder? Necessary or not?

Not

 

[Nico86]

Another thing, I didn't buy the intake valve stem seals. I was told that they usually fall apart quickly, and that they end up in the oil sump (or may get stucked in the oil ways) From what I read, most engine builders don't use it?

[Nico86]

Finished cleaning the outside and the inside of the case. We'll start deburring and grinding the inside this week.

I'm getting this kit to replace the oil plugs and clean the oil galleys http://www.vwparts.net/BP4500-50.html And I found this with foam filter for the breathing boxhttp://www.vwparts.net/BP3043-50.html


Still looking for infos about intake valve stem seals 

[Steve DKK]

Dont use them.   

[Nico86]

Dont use them.   

Thanks Steve 

[Nico86]

One half is almost done, it just needs a bit more cleaning and polishing.

[j-f]

Nice job Nico.

[Nico86]

Thanks J-F 

[didi]

Picked-up my parts from Berg today. Now I have everything I need to start working on the block (except the oil pump that was out of stock, but I'll need it later). Maybe first assembly tests and measures during the weekend. I also got some Dirko HT sealant.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]



One thing I'm wondering about mounting shuffle-pins, the case need to be machined? I don't plan to use it, just wondering.

Picked-up my parts from Berg today. Now I have everything I need to start working on the block (except the oil pump that was out of stock, but I'll need it later). Maybe first assembly tests and measures during the weekend. I also got some Dirko HT sealant.

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]



One thing I'm wondering about mounting shuffle-pins, the case need to be machined? I don't plan to use it, just wondering.

Hi nico

Just noted you want to use the red dirko. i strongly recommend NOT to use it on your wonderful polished mag case. the red one produce chemical deposition. instead, use the black dirko Dirko-S Profi Press HT for alu and mag based alloys, it is designed for this kind of materials.

didi

[Nico86]

Hi nico

Just noted you want to use the red dirko. i strongly recommend NOT to use it on your wonderful polished mag case. the red one produce chemical deposition. instead, use the black dirko Dirko-S Profi Press HT for alu and mag based alloys, it is designed for this kind of materials.

didi

Thanks for tip Didi 

You think I can use that : http://www.vwparts.net/CB3904.html ??

[Type1/DVK]

use the Curil for case halves, and Dirko (grey) for cilinderbase. Winning combo for me.

[Nico86]

I'll look for that, thanks guys