Engine and parts help... mild road engine project

[Nico86]

Thanks Zach  So I'll check that when it will be time to set the deck height.

I should elaborate... Measure your cylinders from case seating surface to head seating surface. Two of mine were .002" shorter than the other two. In this case, I made sure that the 2 like pistons and cylinders stayed on the same side so the heads sealed correctly.

Ok I see now 

[Rick Meredith]

For the case it's satin paint : http://www.vhtpaint.com/blackoxidecasepaint.html (doesn't need to go in the oven).

I used the VHT wrinkle only on the oil sump and breathing box cap (and maybe I'll paint the manifolds with it).

Thanks... I want to use the case paint on my motor too.

[Nico86]

For the case it's satin paint : http://www.vhtpaint.com/blackoxidecasepaint.html (doesn't need to go in the oven).

I used the VHT wrinkle only on the oil sump and breathing box cap (and maybe I'll paint the manifolds with it).

Thanks... I want to use the case paint on my motor too.

If you are going to use it I suggest you to buy 2 cans. One can is very short. I bought only one and after finishing the 3 layers on the case it was empty. With 2 cans you can paint the case and also the generator stand, oil filler and all the other small parts you always forget to paint.

[Diederick/DVK]

i painted 2 cases (with gen stand) with one can. easy does it nico 

[Nico86]

i painted 2 cases (with gen stand) with one can. easy does it nico 

  I'm not good at painting 

[Nico86]

Received my 010 from Glenn today  

[Nico86]

Bringing this up, what do you guys think about these sealing products for the case?






I'm a bit lost between the Dirko HT, Curil K2, Black Loctite, there's some in sprays, aerosols or paste... 

[Nico86]

Little update : after a busy summer I'm starting working on the engine again, next week I'll pay a visit to my local machine shop to ask about the proper balancing of the crank and flywheel.

And I decided to please myself, so I got a pair of Flat4 Knecht-style air filters with K&N elements    This makes me go for the final look of the engine : all black (flat and wrinkle) and satin grey. The only chromed metal will be find on bolts and studs.

[GreenTom]

Bringing this up, what do you guys think about these sealing products for the case?






I'm a bit lost between the Dirko HT, Curil K2, Black Loctite, there's some in sprays, aerosols or paste... 

Gasgacinch and Murrays… those two always on my shelve  . Grate oldschool sealant for almost every where use. I use it for cases, oil pumps, alternetor stands works grate (also for v belts).
get yourselve Loctite 5900 for sumps (also oil pumps, alt stands, barrel to case).
loctite 518 (sometimes called 5188). grate for cases.

[Nico86]

Thanks Tom 

[Nico86]

Guys I need some quick help. On Friday I will bring my crankshaft and accessories to balancing, so tomorrow I'll prepare and check all the parts.

I want to have one thing clarified, do I have to put the 2 non-split bearings on the pulley side of the crank for the balancing? Or I only mount the gears and spacers, then when the balancing is done remove it and put the bearings?

I stole the pic from dsimas thread  



Thanks!

[Rick Meredith]

Guys I need some quick help. On Friday I will bring my crankshaft and accessories to balancing, so tomorrow I'll prepare and check all the parts.

I want to have one thing clarified, do I have to put the 2 non-split bearings on the pulley side of the crank for the balancing? Or I only mount the gears and spacers, then when the balancing is done remove it and put the bearings?

I stole the pic from dsimas thread  



Thanks!

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but since the bearings are not spinning (well we hope they aren't   ) you shouldn't need to balance them.

Also, I wouldn't have the pulley balanced with the crank. If for some reason you need to change the pulley, you'll be stuck. Have it balanced separately.

[bugnut68]

Guys I need some quick help. On Friday I will bring my crankshaft and accessories to balancing, so tomorrow I'll prepare and check all the parts.

I want to have one thing clarified, do I have to put the 2 non-split bearings on the pulley side of the crank for the balancing? Or I only mount the gears and spacers, then when the balancing is done remove it and put the bearings?

I stole the pic from dsimas thread  



Thanks!

is that a CB pulley?  I had a hell of a time with mine not fitting my DPR crank very well, so I sent it back to them and they had the ID of the snout of the pulley turned down a bit.

[Nico86]

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but since the bearings are not spinning (well we hope they aren't   ) you shouldn't need to balance them.

Also, I wouldn't have the pulley balanced with the crank. If for some reason you need to change the pulley, you'll be stuck. Have it balanced separately.

That's what I think too, and it will also make the balancing wrong I guess . But as I'm having a doubt about it since this afternoon   Also I'm looking to an article in the french VW magazine, they are having their crank balanced without the gears and spacers, that's not good  

And yes I've explained this to the machine shop. He'll first check if everything separately is ok, then balance the crank with gears/washers/spacers, then put the flywheel, then the pressure plate, then the pulley at the end (like this : http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,16508.msg240145.html#msg240145)

[Nico86]

is that a CB pulley?  I had a hell of a time with mine not fitting my DPR crank very well, so I sent it back to them and they had the ID of the snout of the pulley turned down a bit.

dsimas is using a CB crank with this : http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,16934.0.html but I don't know if it's a CB pulley.

Look what he wrote about it : "Don't wait until the motor is together to see if the pulley fits.  You may need to hone the pulley or polish the snout of the crank.  Ray had to heat the pulley to get it to fit, which is nice and tight and will not need any work to get it on later."

[Rick Meredith]

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but since the bearings are not spinning (well we hope they aren't   ) you shouldn't need to balance them.

Also, I wouldn't have the pulley balanced with the crank. If for some reason you need to change the pulley, you'll be stuck. Have it balanced separately.

That's what I think too, and it will also make the balancing wrong I guess . But as I'm having a doubt about it since this afternoon   Also I'm looking to an article in the french VW magazine, they are having their crank balanced without the gears and spacers, that's not good  

And yes I've explained this to the machine shop. He'll first check if everything separately is ok, then balance the crank with gears/washers/spacers, then put the flywheel, then the pressure plate, then the pulley at the end (like this : http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,16508.msg240145.html#msg240145)

John is right. If you need to replace a part of the rotating assembly you don't want it to mess up the balance of your motor.

[Zach Gomulka]

I asked Steve Hollingsworth about this when I was building my engine, he said it isn't nessasary to have the gears/spacer installed on the crank for balancing. He found that it made little to no difference, and it was more of a chore since you would have to install the gears, balance, remove the gears, install the main bearing, reinstall the gears...

It's not worth it

[Nico86]

Thanks guys, I'll try to stay with the guy at the machine shop and we'll see.

[Nico86]

Crankshaft and accessories are now at the machine shop. I'll go there next week to see how it's going on. I harrassed the poor man, explaining him how I want it to be done and how to mount parts    

[Nico86]

I've spoke with the guy and decided to put the gears and spacers for the balancing. We'll remove it when I'll come to pick-up the finished parts.

[Nico86]

Not much work have been done since 2 months, I've had to go away from my cars during a moment for some reasons  but now I really need to get back to work on the engine and clear my mind 

Crank and accessories are back from balancing. I got a good deal on the price since the guy at the machine shop managed to loose the Belleville washers of the pulley bolt  but now everything is here.

Quick fitting tests everything seems ok.

[Nico86]

Now I only need some small parts and I'll be able to start assembling and setting the long block.
And this is done too :

[Wout]

Hey Nico

Is your engine ready?

gr
Wout

[Nico86]

Hey Nico

Is your engine ready?

gr
Wout

Hi Wout, sorry for the late reply. I haven't logged-in during 2 months.

I have done absolutely nothing to the engine or the car since last winter  
Truth is, for some personal reasons my soul and mind are completely far away from anything car-related since last winter. I have only done the basic things to maintain the car clean and in working conditions. I barely drove it. To be honest I almost sold the car, including all the engine parts for this project, a month ago. Then my daily driver broke down and I had to use the Beetle on a daily basis during one week, convincing me to keep it. So I still have everything at home.
The good news is that, having only being able to work and nothing else since a few months, I may have enough money to have the gearbox/rear-end done how-I'd-like-it-to-be to fit this engine. If I decided to buid this damn engine once and for all   I'll keep the car for sure, but don't know what to do with the engine parts now.

[Nico86]

I've been thinking about it today, I'm still unsure about what cam/valve springs/pushrods to use.
I need to read again the lot of answers I got from my questions and all the informations I've collected last year. Either use the SLR XV290 cam + single or dual springs? + steel or aluminium HD pushrods? or go to a classic Engle W110 with single srpings and aluminium HD pushrods  ?? At the point of lateness I am I can take the time to have the heads cut for dual springs anyway.

[nicolas]

i used a w110 with single springs and had no issues. so that can work. i can't recall the exact brand, but i do know they were the 'stronger then stock' kind... that is what i had for years without problems.

[Nico86]

i used a w110 with single springs and had no issues. so that can work. i can't recall the exact brand, but i do know they were the 'stronger then stock' kind... that is what i had for years without problems.

Thanks Nicolas I really need to read all the notes I wrote and informations I got last year about it. Then I'll see what I do. Still not sure about whether selling all the parts or buiding the engine.  

[nicolas]

building it is more fun... driving it is even better.

[andy198712]

all the time and thought and money and effort you've out into this, you wont get any of that back, so may aswel carry on and enjoy all your hard work

[Nico86]

building it is more fun... driving it is even better.

all the time and thought and money and effort you've out into this, you wont get any of that back, so may aswel carry on and enjoy all your hard work

True, true.