-59 sleeper project

[Sepi]

Yes, after all I'm here to show my second VW. After driving 26 good years a vintage 1952 original everything beetle it was time to get something else. I found a good candidate from 1959 some months ago. Previous owner had a plan to build a resto-looker and he did the chassis and bottom ready. Although too low suspension with original brakes, engine, gearbox etc wasn't my plan and I'm going to improve it quite totally.

My aim is to build a perfect sleeper without any signs of speed and power resources, so that one day I could drive it to our local vintage car get together and only the deep stroker sound from CSP python could wake up some ears.

My recipe for a torque engine is simple like this:

- polished Bugpack 84mm crank +8 dowel flywheel and Scat big bolt +Tommis billet pulley and Keimo's bolt + 5,5 Bugpack H-profile rods, new ARP bolts. Porsche journals
- VW block machined and reinforced, ff, 94mm Cima cylinders
- GB pushrods
- Scat pushrod tubes
- Schadek 30mm oil pump
- KS crank bearings
- micro sump
- DRD CNC L7 heads 42x37.5 for 94 mm
- MSD Billet T-1, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 2
- Dellorto 45 DRLA's
etc.... to remember something now.

New Rancho Pro-Street gearbox and CSP dual circuit disc front and rear brakes, Koni shocks, many kind of supports and stabilizers for suspension and chassis to help 5,5" smoothie rims with hubcaps and quality tires (maybe 175 / 195x15) to handle the much improved power and probably speed as well.

The best thing for now is to get a new garage ready within some weeks and being as close as possible to our house :-)

Here are some picks and feel free to advice me as I'm still rookie among these lookers. The engine is BTW going to be built by a pro - a friend of mine


As it was some times back


Body just lying on the chassis


oldies goldies together soon getting in to the new garage...

[Nico86]

Welcome to the Lounge  Keep us updated 

[Sepi]

Some improvement has happened. Updated front axle:

[Sepi]

While waiting Karpiola drive shafts to be ready, some engine building has happened:

Block halves testing...


Oil for cooling...


This recommendation will fit perfectly to my plans to get a real GT power:

Hello,

I would recommend  JPM00806(263deg at 0.05” , 9.64mm cam lift and 106LC) very strong low and midrange with decent top end.

I also recommend 7075 billet dual taper PR, makes the engine less noicy and nicer to the valvetrain.
 

Parts are in stock.

 
Thanks

Johannes

[Sepi]

Some work has been done for the chassis



It's looking so innocent - Later same style 5,5 rims and quality tyres will give better handling on the road - I hope so...



As I'm not willing to make a roll cage to strengthen the chassis and body, what do you think if I install kabrio supports? Any experience?

When the engine is ready, I'll add those bars for the rear support - just having some image for now



My next job is the body with so many rotten corners, although generally its quite straight...

[thehanz DVK]

looks promising....good job so far

[Fiatdude]

Having just gone this route with high horse power and small tires -- the wheel hop is going to be substantial and can end up hurting a lot of parts including your trans --- you are going to need at least a 6 point cage that ties into your trans horns and stops all the flex right where it starts --- I just bought a RLR bolt in roll bar system to fix this problem

[Sepi]

Having just gone this route with high horse power and small tires -- the wheel hop is going to be substantial and can end up hurting a lot of parts including your trans --- you are going to need at least a 6 point cage that ties into your trans horns and stops all the flex right where it starts --- I just bought a RLR bolt in roll bar system to fix this problem

Those rims and tyres are just temporally fitted to move the chassis. I'm going to use these 5,5 " rims and better tyres. The idea is to hide the great potential of my beetle to give a nice surprise for these beemers 

The good and strong cage might be a must. It is just now too visible sign of tuned vehicle and I'm willing to try without it first - although there is a set of Recaros...

[Fritter]

Great concept.  Nice job on the pan, looks like this car will handle great.  The kafer bar will stop most of the wheelhop I'm sure.  This car doesn't look to be a hardcore drag racer anyways.

Interesting concept on the Kabrio supports.  Are you saying you will install the heater channel supports, the front footwell pieces and also the rear seat bottom pieces?  I haven't seen that done before and it's a great idea for a stealthy and tighter car.   

[Fiatdude]

Where are you getting those 5.5 rims at??? Thanks

[Sepi]

Where are you getting those 5.5 rims at??? Thanks

I got one set last year from VW Heritage http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_NCA-Wheel-Solid-5-5x15-5-205_act_shop.product_pID_149834_lang_EN_country_GB.htm
It seems to be out of stock at a moment. These rims are actually with clips, so even hubcaps are possible to use. And these are also with a groove for tubeless tyres. With an original theme of paint these will match to my plans. I cannot say how those will go to front axle as it is not narrowed and CSP brakes add about half inch per side

[Sepi]

Great concept.  Nice job on the pan, looks like this car will handle great.  The kafer bar will stop most of the wheelhop I'm sure.  This car doesn't look to be a hardcore drag racer anyways.

Interesting concept on the Kabrio supports.  Are you saying you will install the heater channel supports, the front footwell pieces and also the rear seat bottom pieces?  I haven't seen that done before and it's a great idea for a stealthy and tighter car.   

These heater channel supports are easy to get but haven't seen the others for sale. Maybe the rear seat support could be easy to fabricate by myself, but the meaning is not so important with a hardtop. And for sure, I don't have experience if there is really any meaning with these 

[Sepi]

WHAT, a rear A-C engine Golf



Some interesting letters and numbers



Now it is the boring bodywork waiting...

[Fiatdude]

Mine needs body work too LOL -- But I've pulled the engine and I am now selling the car

[JS]

While waiting Karpiola drive shafts to be ready, some engine building has happened:

Block halves testing...


Oil for cooling...


This recommendation will fit perfectly to my plans to get a real GT power:

Hello,

I would recommend  JPM00806(263deg at 0.05” , 9.64mm cam lift and 106LC) very strong low and midrange with decent top end.

I also recommend 7075 billet dual taper PR, makes the engine less noicy and nicer to the valvetrain.
 

Parts are in stock.

 
Thanks

Johannes

Extra piston cooling is very interesting - are you running high compression on this engine to take advantage of the added cooling?

[Sepi]

While waiting Karpiola drive shafts to be ready, some engine building has happened:

Block halves testing...


Oil for cooling...


This recommendation will fit perfectly to my plans to get a real GT power:

Hello,

I would recommend  JPM00806(263deg at 0.05” , 9.64mm cam lift and 106LC) very strong low and midrange with decent top end.

I also recommend 7075 billet dual taper PR, makes the engine less noicy and nicer to the valvetrain.
 

Parts are in stock.

 
Thanks

Johannes

Extra piston cooling is very interesting - are you running high compression on this engine to take advantage of the added cooling?

CR is 11,05 - quite high but we have 98 oct. petrol. I wanted an engine with plenty of everyday torque

[Sepi]

I have to update the ready engine combo...

- polished Bugpack 84mm crank +8 dowel lightened flywheel and Chromoly bolt
- Kennedy stage II + 200mm, Kush-Lok
- 5,5 Bugpack H-profile rods, new ARP bolts. Porsche journals
- VW block machined and reinforced, ff,
- 94mm AA cylinder/pistons
- Schadek 30mm oil pump
- Porsche 911 oil squirters
- KS crank bearings
- Raptor PM00806 (263deg at 0.05” , 9.64mm cam lift and 106LC)
- JPM 7075 billet dual taper pushrods
- Scat steel straight cut cam gears
- JayCee no leak tubes
- 1,4 SCAT Pro-Comp 4340 Chromoly rockers
- DRD CNC L7 heads 42x37.5
- MSD Billet T-1, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 2
- Dellorto 45 DRLA's with 36 mm venturies
- S-S Sidewinder
- CR 11.05
- wide oil sump, filters, coolers etc.

[andy198712]

very nice!
how did you make the oil squirters?

[Sepi]

very nice!
how did you make the oil squirters?

To be honest - I don't have any idea... BUT the guy who is actually very famous A/C VW & Posche engineer here in Finland knows how to build reliable engines and used these Porsche 911 101 011 01 squirters.

[andy198712]

very nice!
how did you make the oil squirters?

To be honest - I don't have any idea... BUT the guy who is actually very famous A/C VW & Posche engineer here in Finland knows how to build reliable engines and used these Porsche 911 101 011 01 squirters.

Cheers i may look into that  every little helps and all!

the one on my KTM is like a carb jet screwed in....

loving the thread mate, keep it up 

[Sepi]

Its time to continue and the first modification is a rack&pinion steering. Unfortunately my beetle is with a king link beam, so the German system wasn't just a bolt-on. The left side shock is too close and the R&P system must locate about two inches towards right. I'll get some parts soon to finish this, but testing shows even now, that tie rods length will have about the same two inch difference. First I had a plan to extend the joint in the middle to get equal length rods, but maybe there would not be any meaning of such a minimal difference comparing original tie rods...? I'm going to use a 1203/1303 double joint for the steering column to get it align. Please advice me if I'm going to make something stupid or dangerous :-)

Picture about testing R&P steering...



And this is the situation of the rear end...

[Sepi]

Bodywork is going slowly by slowly. I decided not to be in a hurry and even I'm not going to have a target like the show stopper, It's nice to know that everything is tried to make well - or maybe I have to say as well as possible. I'm learning by doing 

some process...
typical found repair from the history:


step two:


step three:

[Sepi]

Something has been done here. Looks clean!



some small details...



Oil will be cool...



R-P steering ready



Fuel systems ready as well



Body has gone to be sand blasted and probably tomorrow its on the way to painter. I'm preparing wings, doors and lids to be painted as well with the original fjord blue colour.

Quite sure, this summer will be my last with an original split -52 and then it will be for sale. No kicks with it anymore after 28 slow motoring 25 hp years...

[cedric]

Good work! I gonne follow this project!

[busbusbus]

nicework, which car is the rack steering from?

[Sepi]

nicework, which car is the rack steering from?

The R&P steering is from VW Polo. That system to fit it to beetle is a copy with slight modifications from a German set. Originally it was designed for ball joint beam, so I had to change the position of steering rack about two inches to the right. Left tie rod is a shortened VW beetle RH side rod and the right tie rod is from VW Polo.
I added the original steering absorber to make sure there is no daabadaaba when I go to annual inspection. Rules here demand a steering absorber when engine is bigger than original 1,2 -59 model...

[busbusbus]

thanks for the reply. it looks a really good setup.
wasn't possible to lenghten the connection piece between rack and tie rods, more to the center, to have them equal lenght?
i believe that it is always better that the original setup but equal lenght would be perfect, like 1302/1303.

[Sepi]

thanks for the reply. it looks a really good setup.
wasn't possible to lenghten the connection piece between rack and tie rods, more to the center, to have them equal lenght?
i believe that it is always better that the original setup but equal lenght would be perfect, like 1302/1303.

The left shock with this king pin front beam is the reason for the off center rack. I got some good advice to reduce bump steer but it wasn't possible to avoid it completely. From suspension travel bottom to top it is still some millimeters - measured from tyre to tyre. As I'm not going to use low profile tyres and not driving rally or off road there should not be much meaning. I wanted to get more accurate and better feeling or connection for the steering

BTW - There must be something basically mad with this hobby of beetle body repair. Like front wings now. I could get a set of those with some hundreds of euros and maybe after some final touch those would be fine looking. But for some reason I have a set of old wings with rust and dents. Maybe not even OEM quality, just dismantled from this -59 and an other oval era beetle. I have done now about ten hours work to repair and straighten those and still some sand blasting and finish will be needed before sending to paint pro. The only reason must be to see the limit of skills and nerves - and lungs for dust...

[Sepi]

After so many long days waiting the paintshop finishing their previous works, my beetle is now under professional care. Basically sand blasting didn't give any big cases and now the body is getting nice original fjord blue colour. Few places are ready and it is so nice to see those gloss results. If everything goes well, I'll get the body + all shiny pieces of beetle before Christmas. You'll get me then from my garage :-)

[broen messiaen]

look nice.
Is the R-P steering from a vw polo 86c or a 6N?