How much money to run 10s in a street car?now with part2, The evolution to turbo

[richie]

Had it on the scales today, as exact as I could get it to when it was going down the track on the 10.42 pass, it weighs 1788lbs with me in it with race suit, helmet, window net, steel decklid, passenger seat oil tray etc.

With some weight reduction in mind I started with some simple things to remove or swap like
 
drivers seat cover[ 2.5 lbs]
then passenger seat[ 22lbs ] 
fiberglass decklid instead of steel [5lbs]
Lightweight battery instead of stock [23lbs]
Normal race suit instead of heavy /15 suit I have to wear in cabrio [5lbs]

so a good start   I have calculated I need to loose 113lbs total

cheers Richie

[Paul Bahnstormerz]

I am not one for leaving stuff alone so with winter here I got plans for some things that will hopefully make it better both on street and ET, so 1st thing loose a little weight[ yes me as well   ] but focussing on the car, idea is still to keep it as cheap as possible but with the success of "how much money to run 10s in a street car"  there is only one logical next phase 

So I spent a few hours looking at stuff that could be lighter without much outlay, 1st all the stupid things like bolts that are to long are getting shortened and replacing the steel bolts and washers on wings and running boards with lighter ones. My aim is to get car down to about 1700lbs [and not go crazy with a holesaw or drill]  weight with driver suited up in it so helmet etc.
So todays total loss 909grams/2lb 0.06 which doesn't include all the grinding/cutting filings on the floor

cheers Richie

"how much faster can you run in a 10 second street car" ?? 

I don`t remember if you have lexand or glass windows in this car, but changing into lexan on side and rear window is easy lost pounds

Its all genuine VW etched glass so that would help , just need to find some sensibly priced and cut it myself I think

cheers Richie

I've got a pair of side windows you can have in lexan

[richie]

I am not one for leaving stuff alone so with winter here I got plans for some things that will hopefully make it better both on street and ET, so 1st thing loose a little weight[ yes me as well   ] but focussing on the car, idea is still to keep it as cheap as possible but with the success of "how much money to run 10s in a street car"  there is only one logical next phase 

So I spent a few hours looking at stuff that could be lighter without much outlay, 1st all the stupid things like bolts that are to long are getting shortened and replacing the steel bolts and washers on wings and running boards with lighter ones. My aim is to get car down to about 1700lbs [and not go crazy with a holesaw or drill]  weight with driver suited up in it so helmet etc.
So todays total loss 909grams/2lb 0.06 which doesn't include all the grinding/cutting filings on the floor

cheers Richie

"how much faster can you run in a 10 second street car" ?? 

I don`t remember if you have lexand or glass windows in this car, but changing into lexan on side and rear window is easy lost pounds

Its all genuine VW etched glass so that would help , just need to find some sensibly priced and cut it myself I think

cheers Richie

I've got a pair of side windows you can have in lexan

Cool thanks mate

[FatKid]

This is exactly what I needed, thank you Richie. I have a '58 that I've had for a better part of ten years that I've been waiting to start. Now that it is it's turn, I've been trying to figure out how to go about doing it. Originally it was to be a gasser, then that changed to a DKP type car, but more recently I've been leaning towards a street legal strip car. So I have spent the last few years collecting original '58 parts and speed parts.

Over the last few days I have read this thread from start to finish. I had my goal set to get into the 12's in a slightly lightened street trim (plus I am a large handicap being an excessively large fellow), mostly steel bug. After reading this, I like the idea of not ringing out the engine with high compression and exotic fuels. I love the style of the Swedish guys with the raised and narrowed torsion housing but not sure if it's overkill for me.

As of right now the engine is a mild manor 2332 with IDA's set with about 8.5:1 compression. I was planning to swap out the AA p/c for something stronger and bump the compression. I went with a KCR Pro Street Plus back when it was only gonna be a street car. I know the trans will be the limiting factor. I know I need to pull weight out of the car to get it to it's potential. I have collected so far a carbon front hood and a fiberglass large scoop decklid. I need to lose the German fenders for some lighter ones. I wanted to switch to Chevy pattern brakes and wheels but I think I might stay wide 5. I already have a brand new set of Center Lines still in the box. And that'll help me keep the cost down as well. There is a bunch I still need to learn but I'm on my way.

[richie]

This is exactly what I needed, thank you Richie. I have a '58 that I've had for a better part of ten years that I've been waiting to start. Now that it is it's turn, I've been trying to figure out how to go about doing it. Originally it was to be a gasser, then that changed to a DKP type car, but more recently I've been leaning towards a street legal strip car. So I have spent the last few years collecting original '58 parts and speed parts.

Over the last few days I have read this thread from start to finish. I had my goal set to get into the 12's in a slightly lightened street trim (plus I am a large handicap being an excessively large fellow), mostly steel bug. After reading this, I like the idea of not ringing out the engine with high compression and exotic fuels. I love the style of the Swedish guys with the raised and narrowed torsion housing but not sure if it's overkill for me.

As of right now the engine is a mild manor 2332 with IDA's set with about 8.5:1 compression. I was planning to swap out the AA p/c for something stronger and bump the compression. I went with a KCR Pro Street Plus back when it was only gonna be a street car. I know the trans will be the limiting factor. I know I need to pull weight out of the car to get it to it's potential. I have collected so far a carbon front hood and a fiberglass large scoop decklid. I need to lose the German fenders for some lighter ones. I wanted to switch to Chevy pattern brakes and wheels but I think I might stay wide 5. I already have a brand new set of Center Lines still in the box. And that'll help me keep the cost down as well. There is a bunch I still need to learn but I'm on my way.

Sounds like you got a cool basis for a quick car there and earlier cars are lighter to begin with so it all helps   If you want to remain somewhat streetable I would stick to wide 5 brakes, you can always get some Ercos to chop the weight down.
Glad to see the thread helping and motivating you to go for it

cheers Richie

[benlawrence]

I was planning to swap out the AA p/c for something stronger and bump the compression.

Ive run AA's for 3 years in my all steel street car 10.5-1 and regular visits to 8000rpm territory, zero issues and im extremely hard on my engine, imo the AA's are pretty good at my level.

[richie]

I was planning to swap out the AA p/c for something stronger and bump the compression.

Ive run AA's for 3 years in my all steel street car 10.5-1 and regular visits to 8000rpm territory, zero issues and im extremely hard on my engine, imo the AA's are pretty good at my level.

Which ones Ben? are they the coated version similar to the wisecos? I wouldn't want to be wanting to use the budget ones to those limits

cheers Richie

[benlawrence]

I was planning to swap out the AA p/c for something stronger and bump the compression.

Ive run AA's for 3 years in my all steel street car 10.5-1 and regular visits to 8000rpm territory, zero issues and im extremely hard on my engine, imo the AA's are pretty good at my level.

Which ones Ben? are they the coated version similar to the wisecos? I wouldn't want to be wanting to use the budget ones to those limits


cheers Richie

They are coated but they arent forged ala wiseco, they are the hypertuteric version pretty much same as the mahles i.e the cheap version, weve ran them in 3 motors that see over 7500 rpm regularly and never had any issues over the years.

[FatKid]

I was planning to swap out the AA p/c for something stronger and bump the compression.

Ive run AA's for 3 years in my all steel street car 10.5-1 and regular visits to 8000rpm territory, zero issues and im extremely hard on my engine, imo the AA's are pretty good at my level.

Which ones Ben? are they the coated version similar to the wisecos? I wouldn't want to be wanting to use the budget ones to those limits


cheers Richie

They are coated but they arent forged ala wiseco, they are the hypertuteric version pretty much same as the mahles i.e the cheap version, weve ran them in 3 motors that see over 7500 rpm regularly and never had any issues over the years.

I am not sure which ones I have. It was built about 5-6 years ago. So I'm guessing they are just the cheap ones. However I know the builder, I'll try and track him down to see what he can tell me.

[richie]

So latest progress, this is without decklid but everything else as I would go down track and still with my thick racesuit [ I have a normal one I will use  but didn't have it to hand] belt was still on with all tin etc
1st pic is as would be raced, 2nd pic car on own with no driver/racesuit/helmet

I still have a few ideas but not much big left so wont make huge difference to total

cheers Richie

[Paul Bahnstormerz]

Is there a reason for the 25lb difference on the rear sides?

[richie]

Is there a reason for the 25lb difference on the rear sides?

Yes, everything was just thrown in car as I was only after total weight and tyres weren't set equal, just aired the slicks up, that alone can make a huge difference, also it now only has a driver seat so more on that side

cheers Richie

[spanners]

50lb off with driver is not a huge deal, I've spent hours trying to get below that sort of figure, even then not achieving it,  torsion bars can suffer a lot of 'sticksion' with eurathane bushes, giving misleading and un repeatable readings, the front is very good for a torsion bar car, a bad front balance is disastrous for a circuit car, worst thing is it won't brake well, let alone steer.

[richie]

50lb off with driver is not a huge deal, I've spent hours trying to get below that sort of figure, even then not achieving it,  torsion bars can suffer a lot of 'sticksion' with eurathane bushes, giving misleading and un repeatable readings, the front is very good for a torsion bar car, a bad front balance is disastrous for a circuit car, worst thing is it won't brake well, let alone steer.

On the New cabrio I got it within 5lbs rear side to side and about 20lbs front, and old cab was within 3lbs front and about 10lb rear, just takes some work and time with thinking head on , amazing what a difference slightly different roll out on slicks makes as well, next I will move battery over to pass side then move bottle around till I get best place for that, and maybe driver can loose a few pounds to help as well

cheers Richie

[Paul Bahnstormerz]

Is there a reason for the 25lb difference on the rear sides?

Yes, everything was just thrown in car as I was only after total weight and tyres weren't set equal, just aired the slicks up, that alone can make a huge difference, also it now only has a driver seat so more on that side

cheers Richie

And there I was thinking you had some unknown science going on!!

[WhiteTrash]

I hope you didn't buy that number plate to show it's a budget build car, You Tight Arse 

See that's the German in you, its actually  Young Trendy Affluent       

More miles on it this weekend 

I saw this at Le Mans Classic. It's the real deal Porsche Transporter from the old days. Check out the number plate. The perfect transporter for the '67.
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[richie]

Nice, think that would blow the budget though

cheers Richie

[nicolas]

Nice, think that would blow the budget though

cheers Richie

haha! if Frank still has his bus, this can be an inspiration to make something similar, that MUST be achievable budget wise… 

it could be the first real bus on gas burners, think about it Richie! 

[richie]

Car is on the back burner at moment with to much else going on but I did get these arrive today, 6.2lbs each


cheers Richie

[Erlend / bug66]

Car is on the back burner at moment with to much else going on but I did get these arrive today, 6.2lbs each


cheers Richie

Hmm. Makes me feel my spares are heavy weight..

[richie]

Car is on the back burner at moment with to much else going on but I did get these arrive today, 6.2lbs each


cheers Richie

Hmm. Makes me feel my spares are heavy weight..

Yep, these feel really light when I picked them up, probably wouldn't take to many wheelies though

cheers Richie

[j-f]

Remember, it's a street car 

Or do you want to change the thread title to "how much money and weight to run run low 9s in a pro street car" 

[richie]

Remember, it's a street car 

Or do you want to change the thread title to "how much money and weight to run run low 9s in a pro street car" 

Yes it is, but like fitting slicks and stinger at the track, race front wheels with front runners is a good thing, and high 9s will do

cheers Richie

[j-f]

Looks like a good recipe for hot rod drag week too 

[Fiatdude]

Some weight saving ideas for you

http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/07/when-bike-meets-beetle/

[Mags]

Richie  you  can see Jørns Bug on SCC.

[hotstreetvw]

Richie,

Do you run any type of rear engine support, traction bar, kafer bar, etc beside having the cage tied into the frame horns?  Any issues with wheel hop?

Will

[richie]

Richie,

Do you run any type of rear engine support, traction bar, kafer bar, etc beside having the cage tied into the frame horns?  Any issues with wheel hop?

Will

Hi Will

no nothing else

cheers Richie

[hotstreetvw]

Awesome.  I ran the two "B" bars down through the package tray and tied into the frame horns.  They are flanged right below the package tray.  I split a 6"x6".125" plate and welded to the package tray to support the area due to having the narrowed torsion and no rear body mounts.

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[richie]

Awesome.  I ran the two "B" bars down through the package tray and tied into the frame horns.  They are flanged right below the package tray.  I split a 6"x6".125" plate and welded to the package tray to support the area due to having the narrowed torsion and no rear body mounts.

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Looks good   Mine braces across to shock towers as well, also best thing I did to stop wheelhop was tie cage to torsion housing, it is amazing how much it moves when its not tied in, on old cabrio I was just starting to see some flex on rear of frame fork after cage down tube end of last year but that is at about 600hp level and hitting it really hard about 20-30ft out with a small tyre which doesn't help

cheers Richie