The Cal-look Lounge
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
April 18, 2024, 13:01:47 pm

Login with username, password and session length
Thank you for your support!
Search:     Advanced search
350680 Posts in 28573 Topics by 6819 Members
Latest Member: Umanisti
* Home This Year's European Top 20 lists All Time European Top 20 lists Search Login Register
+  The Cal-look Lounge
|-+  Cal-look/High Performance
| |-+  Pure racing
| | |-+  How much money to run 10s in a street car?
« previous next »
Pages: 1 ... 27 28 [29] 30 31 ... 33 Print
Author Topic: How much money to run 10s in a street car?  (Read 462444 times)
nicolas
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 3996



« Reply #840 on: November 05, 2016, 07:11:52 am »

also best thing I did to stop wheelhop was tie cage to torsion housing, it is amazing how much it moves when its not tied in

can you show a picture of how that is done. i am considering a cross member between the shock towers, but this is new to me or is it the downbars from the main hoop that go to the torsion housing insted of the shell near the wheel wells?
Logged
Neil Davies
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 3437



« Reply #841 on: November 05, 2016, 08:03:48 am »

Looks good Smiley  Mine braces across to shock towers as well, also best thing I did to stop wheelhop was tie cage to torsion housing, it is amazing how much it moves when its not tied in,

It's not something that most people think about. I didn't, even with a low 12-second car.
It surprised me when I sold Headstraight at the end of 2005 that there were some cracks in the body where the crossmembers join the ends of the heater channels. Not rust, but stress fractures. Of course the crossmembers are bolted to the end of the torsion tubes so they move with the that. I'd got a couple of bars joining the inner arches across the car and down to the end of the frame horns, and a couple more going forwards from them to the main hoop. If I'd have kept the car I would have removed the shock mounts and tied the torsion housings to those bars and mounted the shocks off them too.
Logged

2007cc, 48IDFs, street car. 14.45@93 on pump fuel, treads, muffler and fanbelt. October 2017!
numbnuts
Full Member
***
Posts: 125



« Reply #842 on: November 06, 2016, 09:17:03 am »

This looks good, I want to fabricate something similar for my street car but that will not run a cage. I thought about bracing to the corner of the underside of the parcel tray and inner wing but I feel this may flex? Maybe I could run a bar inside the car behind the rear seat that this bolts to?
Any ideas?
Logged

2854cc 1956 cal looker coming to this space shortly
WhiteTrash
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 268



« Reply #843 on: November 06, 2016, 17:19:14 pm »

also best thing I did to stop wheelhop was tie cage to torsion housing, it is amazing how much it moves when its not tied in

can you show a picture of how that is done. i am considering a cross member between the shock towers, but this is new to me or is it the downbars from the main hoop that go to the torsion housing insted of the shell near the wheel wells?

This is what Richie means. I had to do it on my car as the small tab from the torsion housing on which the floor pan sits, snapped straight through. Now the car launches better. The bars are just welded straight to the inside of the shock tower.
[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Logged

HOFF#67

Lotus White '67's are the best!!!
richie
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 5620



« Reply #844 on: November 07, 2016, 16:46:06 pm »


can you show a picture of how that is done. i am considering a cross member between the shock towers, but this is new to me or is it the downbars from the main hoop that go to the torsion housing insted of the shell near the wheel wells?


 Smiley

cheers Richie
Logged

Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
nicolas
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 3996



« Reply #845 on: November 07, 2016, 20:15:24 pm »

thanks! i can put that on my eternal to-do-list  Roll Eyes  Grin
Logged
Eddie DVK
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 864



« Reply #846 on: November 07, 2016, 23:07:09 pm »


can you show a picture of how that is done. i am considering a cross member between the shock towers, but this is new to me or is it the downbars from the main hoop that go to the torsion housing insted of the shell near the wheel wells?


 Smiley

cheers Richie

Richie, on a mexican body there is a hole there to bolt the body to top of the torsionhousing.
Is that not the case in every beetle?
« Last Edit: November 07, 2016, 23:14:53 pm by Eddie » Logged

Regards Edgar

" Type 4, it is a completely different engine. You have to drive one to understand! "
Neil Davies
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 3437



« Reply #847 on: November 08, 2016, 08:06:16 am »


can you show a picture of how that is done. i am considering a cross member between the shock towers, but this is new to me or is it the downbars from the main hoop that go to the torsion housing insted of the shell near the wheel wells?


 Smiley

cheers Richie

Richie, on a mexican body there is a hole there to bolt the body to top of the torsionhousing.
Is that not the case in every beetle?

There is, but that's why my car started cracking the body - the torsion housing was moving relative to the cage and frame forks and taking the body with it!
Logged

2007cc, 48IDFs, street car. 14.45@93 on pump fuel, treads, muffler and fanbelt. October 2017!
spanners
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 286



« Reply #848 on: November 08, 2016, 09:22:06 am »

VW left the bolts out on late cars, 1302/3 models still had the fixings on the torsion tube but no bolts used, Undecided not sure about Brazilian production, one tweak I did on the cup cars was removing the rubber packing from the inner wing mountings and making it solid with a steel insert and a decent washer and bolt, I'd noticed how much the torsion tube moved while repairing rust bucket street cars so plenty of rear steer from toe change, tight regs stopped any real re enforcing being added unless factory, we could run front axle stiffeners for instance.
Logged

Best regards, spanners.
baz
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 772



« Reply #849 on: November 08, 2016, 09:48:05 am »

Would something like the pic below be effective in a car without a cage?  Say the uprights from the framehorns were further to the ends of framehorns , more vertical than in the pic and connected to a plate welded to the luggage floor. Then a crossbar connecting the shock towers and diagonals down to the torsion housing?


Logged

I will prevail.
Eddie DVK
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 864



« Reply #850 on: November 08, 2016, 15:44:27 pm »


can you show a picture of how that is done. i am considering a cross member between the shock towers, but this is new to me or is it the downbars from the main hoop that go to the torsion housing insted of the shell near the wheel wells?


 Smiley

cheers Richie

Richie, on a mexican body there is a hole there to bolt the body to top of the torsionhousing.
Is that not the case in every beetle?

There is, but that's why my car started cracking the body - the torsion housing was moving relative to the cage and frame forks and taking the body with it!

VW left the bolts out on late cars, 1302/3 models still had the fixings on the torsion tube but no bolts used, Undecided not sure about Brazilian production, one tweak I did on the cup cars was removing the rubber packing from the inner wing mountings and making it solid with a steel insert and a decent washer and bolt, I'd noticed how much the torsion tube moved while repairing rust bucket street cars so plenty of rear steer from toe change, tight regs stopped any real re enforcing being added unless factory, we could run front axle stiffeners for instance.

Ok clear.  Smiley

Oooh spanners did you see how Remmele braces his rear suspension on circuit cars
http://remmelemotorsport.com/bodengruppe.html
« Last Edit: November 08, 2016, 16:04:44 pm by Eddie » Logged

Regards Edgar

" Type 4, it is a completely different engine. You have to drive one to understand! "
spanners
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 286



« Reply #851 on: November 08, 2016, 21:48:43 pm »

Thanks Eddie, yes, it is impressive, not wanting to piss on their fire, but it's a lot of tube work, IE weight, also air Jack turrets, a car like that will weigh in at over 1000 kg, it won't out turn and brake a 700kg car, plus I can't see any uk saloon race series that allow air jacks, again, weight, I get ill with anxiety if I see my race ready weight go over 800kg with me in the seat! That's with liquid cooling, rads, coolers, the lot, I then have to take parts of and throw them away, I don't know why I even have instruments, I never look at them and dream of a flyweight digi dash and minimal thin wall wiring, Cheesy my shocks are over slung on the a arm and tie into the rear cage through the wheel box, the old shock towers are about to get the chop, but hey, off topic, but build em light as possible.  Wink
Logged

Best regards, spanners.
numbnuts
Full Member
***
Posts: 125



« Reply #852 on: November 08, 2016, 22:49:06 pm »



Or this one which I like a bit more but doesn't tie into the cradle....

I think either of these will be OK on a street car with no cage, any opinions?
« Last Edit: November 08, 2016, 22:56:32 pm by numbnuts » Logged

2854cc 1956 cal looker coming to this space shortly
Eddie DVK
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 864



« Reply #853 on: November 09, 2016, 08:33:19 am »

Thanks Eddie, yes, it is impressive, not wanting to piss on their fire, but it's a lot of tube work, IE weight, also air Jack turrets, a car like that will weigh in at over 1000 kg, it won't out turn and brake a 700kg car, plus I can't see any uk saloon race series that allow air jacks, again, weight, I get ill with anxiety if I see my race ready weight go over 800kg with me in the seat! That's with liquid cooling, rads, coolers, the lot, I then have to take parts of and throw them away, I don't know why I even have instruments, I never look at them and dream of a flyweight digi dash and minimal thin wall wiring, Cheesy my shocks are over slung on the a arm and tie into the rear cage through the wheel box, the old shock towers are about to get the chop, but hey, off topic, but build em light as possible.  Wink

whahaha he sells a lot off carbon parts too.
Logged

Regards Edgar

" Type 4, it is a completely different engine. You have to drive one to understand! "
baz
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 772



« Reply #854 on: November 09, 2016, 10:16:24 am »



Or this one which I like a bit more but doesn't tie into the cradle....

I think either of these will be OK on a street car with no cage, any opinions?

I like the last one best too, would additional bars connecting to the outer ends of the torsion housing work even better?

Logged

I will prevail.
Fiatdude
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1823



« Reply #855 on: November 09, 2016, 19:32:16 pm »

I think that it needs to tie in with more of the car than what is shown -- -- I battled wheel hop with the oval and it didn't go away until I tied everything in with a RLR 6 point cage which had the down tubes to the frame horns....
Logged

Fiat -- GONE
Ovalholio -- GONE
Ghia -- -- It's going

Get lost for an evening or two -- http://selvedgeyard.com/

Remember, as you travel the highway of life,
For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
numbnuts
Full Member
***
Posts: 125



« Reply #856 on: November 09, 2016, 23:30:49 pm »

Where on the frame horns does the rlr cage meet?
Logged

2854cc 1956 cal looker coming to this space shortly
Erlend / bug66
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 955

SCC Event


WWW
« Reply #857 on: November 09, 2016, 23:46:34 pm »

I did this;

 


150mm * 150mm plates over and under parcel tray, and tied to the cage. Solid!
Logged

The '67:
10.626 @ 132mph, SCC 2016
10.407 @ 134mph, SCC 2017
10.221 @ 135mph, SCC 2018

The '59:
Not yet..
Fiatdude
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1823



« Reply #858 on: November 10, 2016, 03:34:53 am »

Where on the frame horns does the rlr cage meet?

Where ever you want --- He gives you a plate and a piece of tubing and you can be place it where it works best for you
Logged

Fiat -- GONE
Ovalholio -- GONE
Ghia -- -- It's going

Get lost for an evening or two -- http://selvedgeyard.com/

Remember, as you travel the highway of life,
For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
numbnuts
Full Member
***
Posts: 125



« Reply #859 on: November 14, 2016, 21:49:19 pm »

a few pics stolen from the funkenblitz website. They tie the frame horns to the parcel shelf





Maybe a combination of the 2? Tie the body into the parcel tray underside and also triangulate between the shock towers?
Logged

2854cc 1956 cal looker coming to this space shortly
leec
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2585


« Reply #860 on: November 14, 2016, 22:12:55 pm »

I stole/used that set up when I ran the oval without a cage. It went 12.1 with that set up and never had any wheel hop and the firewall on my oval was never the best in terms of condition  Grin
Logged
numbnuts
Full Member
***
Posts: 125



« Reply #861 on: November 14, 2016, 23:25:41 pm »

In terms of condition before or after?
Logged

2854cc 1956 cal looker coming to this space shortly
leec
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 2585


« Reply #862 on: November 14, 2016, 23:46:52 pm »

Sorry, meant it was a bit thin/wobbly before. This never got any worse after the above set up was used.

Lee
Logged
numbnuts
Full Member
***
Posts: 125



« Reply #863 on: November 15, 2016, 19:04:57 pm »

Well it seems like that may be the simplest and lightest solution for someone like myself that doesn't particularly want to run a cage, just to brace from the cradle to the parcel shelf underside only as per the funkenblitz images
Logged

2854cc 1956 cal looker coming to this space shortly
nicolas
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 3996



« Reply #864 on: November 20, 2016, 08:44:36 am »

Well it seems like that may be the simplest and lightest solution for someone like myself that doesn't particularly want to run a cage, just to brace from the cradle to the parcel shelf underside only as per the funkenblitz images

i have thought about that as well, but i come to the conclusion that if you need that kind of bracing, you need a cage as well.
Logged
Fiatdude
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1823



« Reply #865 on: November 21, 2016, 18:05:08 pm »

Well it seems like that may be the simplest and lightest solution for someone like myself that doesn't particularly want to run a cage, just to brace from the cradle to the parcel shelf underside only as per the funkenblitz images

i have thought about that as well, but i come to the conclusion that if you need that kind of bracing, you need a cage as well.

X2 -- -- If you've got this type of HP to need this, You've got enough HP to really hurt yourself quickly..... and I can name quite a few of our predecessors that can vouch for this by either walking away from a crash or NOT....
Logged

Fiat -- GONE
Ovalholio -- GONE
Ghia -- -- It's going

Get lost for an evening or two -- http://selvedgeyard.com/

Remember, as you travel the highway of life,
For every mile of road, there is 2 miles of ditch
richie
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 5620



« Reply #866 on: December 29, 2016, 13:48:44 pm »

Its getting harder to find easy places to loose some weight on the car but I have been looking last few days, this was 1st place I thought of, I cut all the holes, then swaged the edge to put the strength back in Smiley total loss is 1.7lbs, not sure it was worth the effort as I probably ate more than that in xmas cake Cheesy


cheers Richie
Logged

Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
andy198712
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1063



« Reply #867 on: December 29, 2016, 15:29:32 pm »

which does raise a very good point.... this thread seems to miss the driver?

carbon helmet over a heavy one, maybe even 1kg there??!! more like 500grams but still.

also unless your pretty lean, you can loose KG's that way too.

just a thought  Grin (given how much i've eaten over xmas  Roll Eyes)
Logged
richie
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 5620



« Reply #868 on: December 29, 2016, 16:38:28 pm »

which does raise a very good point.... this thread seems to miss the driver?

carbon helmet over a heavy one, maybe even 1kg there??!! more like 500grams but still.

also unless your pretty lean, you can loose KG's that way too.

just a thought  Grin (given how much i've eaten over xmas  Roll Eyes)

I did show scales with and without driver before, I am not a jockey that's for sure and it is a big problem trying to scale a car with a typical weight[170-200lbs] driver and nothing to offset the weight.

Last time I bought a new helmet I compared the carbon version to normal and it really isn't worth it, it was something like less than 1/2lb, real benefit would be in a circuit or rally car were the weight saving helps with fatigue

cheers Richie 
Logged

Cars are supposed to be driven, not just talked about!!!   


Good parts might be expensive but good advice is priceless Wink
henk
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 654


« Reply #869 on: December 29, 2016, 23:27:45 pm »

The first kg's are always the easy one to loose.
But 1kg here 500gr there,... will make some difference in total as well.
And you can always use the seat to take passengers with you,those "drainholes" on the seat base may be handy Grin

Henk!!!
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 27 28 [29] 30 31 ... 33 Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!