Lickity Split

[Stripped66]

*Pushrods hitting Jaycee tubes.  Order Pauter tubes.  Wait.  Pushrods hitting Pauter tubes.  Weld heads, send to Shawn to have the pushrod tube hole moved based on actual geometry.  Shawn cranked these things out for me, huge thanks to him.

Tall pushrod cup lifter?

I run the Pauter tubes backwards (large end at case, fits the wasserboxer case better) and didn't have rubbing issues with either a tall or short pushrod cup lifter, but I don't have as large OD pushrods as you (nor the same heads or rockers)...however, I hope the geometry issue wasn't due to tall pushrod cup lifters.

[hotstreetvw]

I don't know if it is what you consider tall.  They are long lifters.  It's just they are ment for a v8 where the weight of the pushrod keeps it in the cup.  The clearence issue was not on the lifter side, but the head side.  The pushrod tube hole had robe moved by a 1/4"-3/8" in some cases.

Hopefully I can get it back together this weekend.

[Stripped66]

I don't know if it is what you consider tall.  They are long lifters.  It's just they are ment for a v8 where the weight of the pushrod keeps it in the cup. 

That is the tall variety. Even V8's have lifters with recessed cups. The tall lifters on our engines increases the pushrod angle; was wondering if that increased pushrod angle was the source of your clearance issues.

[hotstreetvw]

Increased pushrod angle is absolutely the cause of the issue on the head end.  The 1/2 side needed the tubes moved more than the 3/4, makes since due to the cylinder arrangement over the lifter bores.

[Stripped66]

FWIW (and I made the same comment in Richie's thread), I had significant lifter bore wear with the tall ISKY lifters with a mild roller cam, 440lbs over the nose, at 5000 miles (daily driven). The pushrod angle reflects the lateral forces into the lifter bore. I had my bores re-sleeved and replaced the tall ISKY's with Pauter (Crower) roller lifters; bores look good 15K miles later. I don't know what kind of miles you're planning on running on the street, but something to keep in the back of your mind especially with those stout springs you're running. There is no free lunch...any time we think we're fixing one problem (long pushrods), we're creating others.

[richie]

I don't know if it is what you consider tall.  They are long lifters.  It's just they are ment for a v8 where the weight of the pushrod keeps it in the cup. 

That is the tall variety. Even V8's have lifters with recessed cups. The tall lifters on our engines increases the pushrod angle; was wondering if that increased pushrod angle was the source of your clearance issues.

As it has much more interference with heads than mine did and I think I have less stroke and shorter rods so angle should be worse I am thinking the rocker ratio has a lot of affect, I have bigger ratio so longer rocker and less issues. Just a thought

cheers Richie

[Stripped66]

How's the build coming along?

[modnrod]

+1. I like this build-up.
 

[hotstreetvw]

Thanks! 

I've been busy!

I had the big engine back together for a short time, one pass down the street resulted in two broken rockers.  it was the two rockers where the pushrods jumped, so maybe my fault, but I don't think the rockers can stand the spring loading.  Heads and rockers are sold.  Shawn is building a set of 910s with T&D rocker setup, big CFMs.

I cut the cage out.  Finished building out the other pan, just needs fuel lines.  Started sanding the body, getting ready for paint, building new cage floor plates.  This time the cage is integrated into the body, nothing down to the pan.  A-pillar plates are 4"x9"x.125", notched around the a-pillar.  Main hoop sits on plinth boxes built into the heater channel.  I ran everything by the main NHRA tech guy in the region and he said it will all pass Cert.

Plan is to have the chromoly cage finished thanksgiving.  Then start getting the body work knocked out.

I'll get some picture up in a couple days.
 

[hotstreetvw]

[BeetleBug]

Wow! That is what I call a decent thread update. Please keep`em coming!

-BB-
Norway

[Andrew]

Wow! That is what I call a decent thread update. Please keep`em coming!

-BB-
Norway

Amazing work, been catching up on this thread, great too see an update.

[hotstreetvw]

Not much for words on the last update.

I've replaced the firewall and package tray.  Its not a split with the "hump" in the package tray or with the access panel, but close enough for me.  I didn't want to hold out for a split and have the car sitting forever.

The cage is WAY lighter.  So for anyone thinking of caging their car, go moly the first time and never look back.  I have a spreadsheet and based on redoing the cage, Imy estimate is I will save 70-80lbs.  So much extra weight, Those 6X6 plates doubled over and bolted are lbs!!  So the car is going on a serious diet.  The goal is supergas weight, 1725lbs w/ driver, but I think I can do better, like 1675lbs.

The new pan is awesome.  It is in much better condition than the old.  I went with the WW pan halves, they are solid, although might have added a few pounds in the wrong direction.  I am going to redo the wheel tubs.  Ditched the 1" trans raise.  I have a new autocraft rear apron along with WW quarter panels and bumper brackets.  Apron will be made removable. 

Body was sanded down to bare metal, then primed with master series.  I like the stuff, although it is nasty due to the aromatic drying process (draws moisture out of the air to cure) which means if you don't wear a full face mask, it pulls moisture out of your lips, nose and EYEs.  Full face 3M respirator is a requirement IMO.

Progress has been moving at a pretty good pace.  I've been busting balls before the weather gets here.  I hope I can get it back together for next spring because I'd really like to do some racing next year.

I might upgrade the 2275 over winter.  I REALLY want to try a set of Ultra Wedgeports and some compression, along with a 86C.

[Neil Davies]

Looking good! I'd consider grafting in an access panel in the rear luggage tray - makes clutch adjustments so much easier, and as for the pan halves adding a few pounds - I'd rather have weight low down and remove it higher up!

[Fasteddie63]

Looks great,now get it running

[hotstreetvw]

Time for an update.  Don't worry Eddie, it will be running.

Lots of things brewing in the engine department.  Waiting on my 910s.  Picked up a set of PG heads to throw together a high compression PG type engine.  Street engine is getting a 86c.

Dash for 2017


Staging brake setup.  I machined the pedestal to fit the tunnel radius.  couple iterations with a boring head and dialed it in.  underside is hollowed out to save those precious ounces.


Sitting a little low in the rear but that is easily fixed.

[Andrew]

Brilliant work! Looks really mean...in the side on shot.

[hotstreetvw]

Thanks Andrew.  

I'm keeping busy trying to get the car finished before our third child gets here (ETA is April 3rd), so I'm down to the wire.

The car has gone through a complete transformation this off season.  Started with cutting the mild steel cage out and replacing it with chromoly.  Body had to be sanded to bare metal to cover of my torching of the paint last year.  Everything on the car has been considered for weight savings.  My new estimate for weight this year is 1685 w/ driver, that's assuming I can loose the fifteen pounds of baby weight that I've put on.  Sympathy weight if you will , I sure did enjoy eating though, now I get to enjoy the treadmill.

Couple shots of the engine bay.  I machined a bracket for the fuel pressure regulator, mounted the y-block.  Not realy happy with the 90 degree to 90 degree.  I might make my own this summer.  Through firewall plug for ignition coil.  I figured that would unclutter the engine bay a little, one less set of wires back there.

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Built a new breather box.  Weighted in at 3.9lbs lighter than the old box.   Physically smaller, thinner material.  Stickers are a bit lighter  Cost was like $22 for the fittings, I had the filter from the old box.
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[Zach Gomulka]

I've lost 15 pounds in the last two months solely by going vegan. It did the trick, but I miss cheese. And bacon.

Swap that aluminium alternator stand with a factory mag one

[ibg]

Zach, not sure if you are being funny.... but if there is a Magnesium alt stand I want one, how do you tell them apart, any particular years?

[Zach Gomulka]

1973 and up came with an alternator. Anything aftermarket is going to be aluminium and say "firing order", factory will be magnesium and say "Zündfolge". Notice the shape difference in a generator stand (left) vs an alternator stand (right). The inner radius is the same.

[hotstreetvw]

But how am I going to remember the firing order?!?

I might have one in my stash.  If I can't find one, I bet a swap meet would be able to  turn one up.

[Chip]

But how am I going to remember the firing order?!?

I might have one in my stash.  If I can't find one, I bet a swap meet would be able to  turn one up.

You may have to brush up on your german number reading skills...
Glad to see you are moving forward! Gonna bring it out to SLC for the msvwra race this year?

[hotstreetvw]

LOL, now that I'm on a PC I can read the numbers on the stand.  I'll keep brushing up on my German numbers though.

SLC is on my calendar but I don't know if I can commit yet.

[Chip]

LOL, now that I'm on a PC I can read the numbers on the stand.  I'll keep brushing up on my German numbers though.

SLC is on my calendar but I don't know if I can commit yet.

Shoot, my car runs and drives and i can't commit for sure, probably not for sure until the day of 

[Andrew]

1973 and up came with an alternator. Anything aftermarket is going to be aluminium and say "firing order", factory will be magnesium and say "Zündfolge". Notice the shape difference in a generator stand (left) vs an alternator stand (right). The inner radius is the same.

That's interesting, how much lighter, as an estimate?

[richie]

But how am I going to remember the firing order?!?

I might have one in my stash.  If I can't find one, I bet a swap meet would be able to  turn one up.

Will,

I see one at a swap meet today and it was $5 so grabbed it, if you need it just cover the $5 & post and its yours If not I will just keep it

Andrew it weighs 14.7oz and the aftermarket ally version weighs 1 lb 6.6oz so decent saving

[hotstreetvw]

I'm in.  I'll send you a PM.

Thanks!

[Andrew]

Thanks Richie, worth keeping an eye open for then.

[hotstreetvw]

I'm trying to get this "Pro-Gas" engine sorted out for the beginning of the season.  Still waiting on the 910s, and then there will be a time period on the big engine to get it sorted out.  I didn't want to sit out part of the season, and I want to go fast, so the street engine is set aside and this Pro-Gas configuration will get finished.

Over Christmas, I started building a piston vice for cutting valve pockets.  I finished it this last weekend and cut the pistons for the PG engine.

He is the vise in the Bridgeport.  Its basically a clamshell, with a delrin insert.  The insert is machined to work up to about a 103mm piston, so it will cover the 101.6 nicely.  The valve angle is fixed at 8 degrees, which lays the pocket back just a bit relative to the valve angle.  I figure I've got about $80 into it for the aluminum block ($2/lb bought as scrap), the delrin (which I have a nice size chunk left over for another project), and the hardware.  It was a worthwhile project for the mill.  I made a lot of chips and was able to build a tool that is functional.