My kitchen built 2276 dynoed at 165 PS. Engine tuning experts needed.

[181]

I planned to use our 95 RON regular but I can step up to 98 RON or 100 RON fuel.

[airstuff]

It would be better if you could use 98 ron,but I was also thinking of running my future motor on 95 ron.

So Jan,what will you do with the deck height then?

Leave it as is or?

[181]

Still trying to solve this with Greg Tims, I´m not decided yet. It would be great to have my deck (quench) height around healthy 0.05 and that is not possible with the step included in Stage 2s, if this step´s inside diameter is smaller then outside diameter of Mahle piston. But if they remove the step, some slight enlargement of chamber will be needed. I´m lost in this..

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1349.0;attach=25574;image

Is this step in the Stage 2s cut for internal diameter of 94mm piston outside diameter? If yes, it can act as a built in shim and I´ll just add a thin 0.015 barrel spacer to achieve my desired number!

Zvonimir, if you have a 94 mm piston handy can you measure it for me?

[richie]

Still trying to solve this with Greg Tims, I´m not decided yet. It would be great to have my deck (quench) height around healthy 0.05 and that is not possible with the step included in Stage 2s, if this step´s inside diameter is smaller then outside diameter of Mahle piston. But if they remove the step, some slight enlargement of chamber will be needed. I´m lost in this..

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1349.0;attach=25574;image

Is this step in the Stage 2s cut for internal diameter of 94mm piston outside diameter? If yes, it can act as a built in shim and I´ll just add a thin 0.015 barrel spacer to achieve my desired number!

Zvonimir, if you have a 94 mm piston handy can you measure it for me?

I think .020 is the thinest shim readily available,they are not very good though,the thinest I would use is .030,and I thought they left the step in the head as it is not very strong there,the extra material helps with this

cheers richie

[181]

so basically you say that the step shouldn´t be removed? I hoped that if they enlarge the ID of the step to be larger then OD of the Mahle piston, that I can safely use it as a part of my "shim stack"

[richie]

so basically you say that the step shouldn´t be removed? I hoped that if they enlarge the ID of the step to be larger then OD of the Mahle piston, that I can safely use it as a part of my "shim stack"

I think if you put a cylinder inside the head and look down it the step shouldnt interfere with the piston at all, i have had a dish put into the piston to solve this exact problem you have,when you want tight deck but a certain compression and there is no extra cc available in the head,the last ones I had done on mahle 94mm pistons were 7.5 cc

cheers richie

[airstuff]

Still trying to solve this with Greg Tims, I´m not decided yet. It would be great to have my deck (quench) height around healthy 0.05 and that is not possible with the step included in Stage 2s, if this step´s inside diameter is smaller then outside diameter of Mahle piston. But if they remove the step, some slight enlargement of chamber will be needed. I´m lost in this..

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1349.0;attach=25574;image

Is this step in the Stage 2s cut for internal diameter of 94mm piston outside diameter? If yes, it can act as a built in shim and I´ll just add a thin 0.015 barrel spacer to achieve my desired number!

Zvonimir, if you have a 94 mm piston handy can you measure it for me?

Hey Jan,

I measured it for you.

Step cut ID is something like 91.5 mm close to 92,and the piston OD is 93.43 as stated on the head of piston

piston head does not fit into the step ID at all,on both heads

[181]

Thanks a lot, that is bad. I can´t use the step as a part og my "shim" stack so time for plan b.

[airstuff]

Thanks a lot, that is bad. I can´t use the step as a part og my "shim" stack so time for plan b.

and what is your plan B?

I was thinking of removing the step in my head,I don't like it.Donnow how much it would really affect the stenghtness of that area,but as I read in www.thesamba.com forums,many Volks have removed it,and are using heads withouth the problem

Did you maybe talk with Greg Tims about this step?What does he reccomend?

When I was ordering my heads on phone,ha asked me whether I would like to have this step or not,and I said to him to leave it,until I see what deck will I gain,and now,as I will be at the same situation as you,or nearly similar situation,using 82 stroke and 5.4 rods,I am thinking of removing it.

[airstuff]

it also interests me,how many cc's remains in the head when the step is removed,does it affect the cc's?

[181]

I found on other forum, that it is 57 cc with the step and circa 48-49 cc without I have no plan "B" yet 

Yeah edit: I wrote Greg if they can remove the step and enlarge the chamber to 56 cc at the same time. That is the only way I can retain correct, not excessive deck height of 0.06 and a correct compression ratio of 9.5:1 at the same time. My learning curve is slooowww:-)

[airstuff]

any news? 

[181]

No move in engine build, need to sort out the compression ratio and quench height stuff. I´m conversating with Greg via e-mail I´ll let you know as soon as I have the solution

[airstuff]

Any news?

[181]

Not much Zvonimir.. Steve will remove the step from my heads and will reshape the chambers to 53 cc (which is the maximum on 043 casting and 94 bore to keep the combustion chamber nice). If I use a 0.06 copper gasket it will make exact 10.0:1 CR so I´m deciding if I can live with this compression ratio or if I should dish my pistons Richie recommended above.

What do you guys suggest? Can I live with 10.0:1  CR with FK-8 cam and 95 RON pump gas?

[181]

My engine will feature an S:Cat shroud :-D

(not mine quote, but funny as hell..)

[181]

[airstuff]

very nice to hear that you are almost at the end of competion

have you measured pushrod lenght,and set up the geometry,or that has to follow?

[airstuff]

so this is a Scat oil sump

did you have any problems mounting it to the case,is it hard to get to the studs wit a wrench?and what kind of studs did you use?

[181]

Zvonimir, I received my heads yesterday (!) so I only kinda mocked it up to take a new breath and find power (didn´t touched the engine for one month waiting for the heads) so valve geometry fun is ahead!

No problems with Scat sump and very easy to mount with some mods follow my pic:

I used Scat delivered bolts for mounting the sump to the case but used high grade long bolt through the case where the suction bascet attaches (you have to do it when the case is split)

[Peter]

I advice i can give:
dont let the cat come too close to the engine,
i thought i cleaned everything properly during assembly,
but when i cleaned the oberg, i found a lot of white hair!!
and there s only one guy in my house that has it:)
so watch out !

Peter

[181]

Thanks Ruff, I realise there are kitty hair flying everywhere in the apartment so I keep the engine wrapped in blanket when I don´t work on it. It is time consuming but I´m anal when it is about cleanliness :-D I also clened all parts with compressed air (yes I brought my compressor to the kitchen) and I vacuum clean all parts before installation from all dust it may collect. 

[181]

Well this is a flange of CB Big Bœuf manifold ported for Steve Tims heads. A lot of meat is left untouched.



and this is a view of right side cylinder tin (german original) untouched and unmodified.



My question is - if I transfer the shape of the original opening to the flange on the manifold and grind off excessive meat, will the manifolds give the carbs enough support and will there be anough sealing surface? I cannot bend the tin inwards because stock deflector inside is already almost touching the most outwards cooling fin on the head.

[dirk zeyen]

hello,

the sealing surface will be enough. you have also to clear the area around the nuts on your manifolds( where you screw the nuts to fit the manifolds to the heads) there is no flat surface and no place for the nut to turn free.

dirk

[181]

Yes I noticed that that area of the CB Big Beefs you mention is very unfinished and gives no correct seating surface for manifold nuts. I will get back with pics of finished product later. Thank you Dirk!

[181]

I modified my big beef intakes today. Cooling is crucial for me, as the car is street driven driver, so I do not want to heavily cut and mot my upper cylinder tins. This mod allowed me to use these intakes only with some light tapping on upper cylinder tins.

this is typical intake of 043 Stage 2´s from Steve Tims.



this is intake gasket cut to shape of intake flange on the right, on the left is size and shape of CB Big Beef flange gasket



I then copied new shape to the manifold



cut, grind..beer..grind again...in fact as a final step I bolted both manifolds together, flange to flange, and grinded them together to keep the shape the same on both





and also created seating surface for my CSP intake nuts (10 mm hex 8 mm thread)

[dirk zeyen]

good work!!!

dirk

[youngnstudly]

Your manifolds and tin turned out really nice! I didn't get a chance to finish mine yet or weld the deflectors into the tin, but there's always tomorrow . Keep at it!

-Andy

[181]

welded FI venturi ring to my Scat shroud

[Diederick/DVK]

Where did you get the ring? I've been trying to find one...
Nice work by the way!!!