My kitchen built 2276 dynoed at 165 PS. Engine tuning experts needed.

[181]

I robbed it from an old doghouse shroud I had lying around. But try these guys they make repros:

http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/Venturi_Ring.html

[airstuff]

Hello Jan,

are you using total seal rings on your engine build,or just regular rings?

[181]

I use only regular Mahle rings and will see how they´ll hold up since I´ve seen mixed opinions on Totalseal..

[airstuff]

Jan,

how are your heads out of the box?

are stem heights of all valves the same?

did they come with the pre-shimmed springs,or you have to do it yourself

[181]

made some small progress on lower engine tin today. I started with drivers side because it is more complicated. I had to trim the sled tin because it interfered with big turn of tubing from 4th cylinder. That means the industrial tin had to be shortened for a little bit too.





Then I moved the industrial tin toward the engine so it wont interfere with number 3 J-tube and trimmed a 1/2 inch stripe of tin from the sled tin and made new holes to attach the industrial tin.

Last picture shows how much metal will be added to the industrial tin so it will end under the head.

[Diederick/DVK]

very nice dude! but as far as i know, many people don't even run that tin, right?
what kind of pushrod tubes do you have? they look stock, but shiny

[181]

these are (cough cough) EMPI (cough) stainles steel windage tubes. As I tried to stay away from EMPI as much as possible, I douldn´t find any other brand stock pushrod tubes. As I use aircooled.net alu HD pushrods, thing inside are very crowded.

I try to use as much stock tin as possible!

[Bad bug]

made some small progress on lower engine tin today. I started with drivers side because it is more complicated. I had to trim the sled tin because it interfered with big turn of tubing from 4th cylinder. That means the industrial tin had to be shortened for a little bit too.





Then I moved the industrial tin toward the engine so it wont interfere with number 3 J-tube and trimmed a 1/2 inch stripe of tin from the sled tin and made new holes to attach the industrial tin.

Last picture shows how much metal will be added to the industrial tin so it will end under the head.

Are these stock length pushrod tubes.

[181]

yes they are, I only stretched them a bit by hand. Engine is almost stock width with only 2.5mm barrell shim added on each side..

[youngnstudly]

Looks great! You're pretty much at the same step(s) I am at with my 2276. Actually I fitted my lower tin and pushrod tubes a month ago but I did have to snip the sled tin after I converted my heater boxes over. On the last engine I used those Empi stainless pushrod tubes and they worked fine. You shouldn't have any issues with them. After I ground my big beef manifolds and shaped the cylinder head tin, I was still able to fit the German deflector tins to the cylinder head tin cleanly. I also bought the same CSP intake nuts as you mentioned on the other forum that they were easier to install. You were right! Looks great. I will be working on my engine today and hopefully I can get it done soon!

-Andy

[181]

quick mockup for my T-shirt. Going for drags with my 1500 kadron singleport again, but I´m getting CLOSER!

[181]

modded Scat shroud complete:

added a venturi ring, welded internal vanes to both sides of the outer skin so they won´t fell of by vibrations

made holes for stock ign. wire holders, welded tabs for holding alt. wiring

added threaded inserts for ign. coil bolts

welded and reshaped area around hoover bit to make it seal perfectly

scrubbed and painted everything

added stickers:-)

[Peter]

Looking good my friend!
Its amazing how thorough you work!
I m sure it will perform flawlessly 
You ll have great fun with it, i can assure you

[181]

Thanks Peter, I enjoy being precise in this engine build.

One extra for Zvonimir:

stock original valve cover can hide 1.4 rockers on FK8 cam. I only welded on breather tube like Berg does and some gasket retaining tabs to the inside..

[181]

I decided to go EDIS:-) So stay tuned. As I invested a lot of time to my Superhawk crotch rocket, the engine hasn´t run yet. My plan is to break it in on the stand with conventional ignition, make repairs that may occur during break in procedure and install it to the car in spring 010.

[181]

here is a neat tip for those of you running Dells. You can buy great hex nut mixture screws that can be adjusted  with an opened wrench without removing carbs from the engine! They cost few bucks at Alfa1750 Ebay store and they can save a lot of time!

[181]

Oh well here I come with my stupid question. I never built such a big engine as my 2276 definitely is. How hard is to turn a fresh engine like this? The bottom end turned super nice and smooth but after I added heads with sparklplugs and mainly pushrods (dual vale springs), the engine is really hard to turn by a ratchet. I´m pretty sure nothing binds at the monment, CR is close to 10.5:1..

[Peter]

its normal

[Peter]

remove the plugs and you ll see it is much easier

[181]

Now I have a question, I´m sure that my 4.37 stock trans will not hold up for a long time, but it has to serve for the engine break-in period. I´m saving cash for a new gearbox and I´m considering this config:

rear tires: 205/65x15 radials
swingaxle
4.12 Ring and pinion
0.82 4th
welded syncros on 3rd and 4th

I´m considering breaking my wallet for a Quaife diff, otherwise I´ll go with superdiff.

The car is a VW Thing/181/Trekker for the street and very, very moderate strip use. My goal is to achieve good freeway speeds and I want my 1/4 mile to happen in first three gears. I hope that the engine will push out around 160 WHP.

(engine specs: 2276, FK-8, 1.4 CB rockers, 5.4 rods, 48 DRLAS, 1 5/8 sidewinder ,42x37 Steve Tims Stage 2 heads)

What are your ideas and advices? 3.88 rp and 0.89 fourth? What about 1st gear? I believe that with power and torque stock first would be very, very short and not useful..I think that I´l inquire KCR, rancho in US and bears and CogBox in UK for prices and will choose the right supplier frome these 4.

[Zach Gomulka]

IMO, stock 4.12 ratios really can't be beat. Use the late 3.78 2.06 mainshaft, and 1.26, .89 for 3rd and 4th. You can quarter mile in the first 3, then cruise home in 4th

[181]

are there differences in strength between 3.88 and 4.12 ring and pinion?


Would you prefer new Quaife or refurbished ZF?

[richie]

are there differences in strength between 3.88 and 4.12 ring and pinion?


Would you prefer new Quaife or refurbished ZF?

3.88 is stronger and I would chose a new quaife over a ZF any day

cheers richie,uk

[181]

allrigt so 3.88 rp and 0.89 4th will be a better bet

thanks Richie

[181]

my other random question is...stock case, stock gusseted case or Rhino case?

Thanks,

Jan

[Zach Gomulka]

3.88 will make it a bit doggy off the line compared to a 4.12, or a 4.37 for that matter. If you have a light car with loads of torque it isn't much of an issue... or if you adjust the other gears accordingly to have a similar final drive ($$$). Your choice I like the torque multiplying factor of a 4.12, the 4.37 makes the engine a bit too buzzy at highway speeds for my taste.
From what I've heard the Rhino cases have all the gusseting in the wrong place, good for a mid engine car, but useless for a rear mounted engine. I'd like to hear what the trand pro's say on that one...

[Donny B.]

I have also heard from more than one tranny builder that the Rhino cases are of softer material than the stock transmission cases.

[richie]

Good stock case,gusseted if you will use sticky tyres at all?

cheers richie,uk

[Brown-nose]

Rancho now sell a rhino case with extra gusset

http://www.ranchoperformancetrans.com/blog/complete-ranchorhino-case-package/

[Diederick/DVK]

funny to read your comments are theirs on their website. in their words proper gussetting is then extra gussetting