The 4" Bore Thread

[andy198712]

4 years now, many people still doing 4inches or has it fallen out of fashion?

[UltraOrange67-2443]

Still building mine, about 7 years now 

[andy198712]

Still building mine, about 7 years now 

I’ve just brought a wbx to aircool and I’m thinking about it, but it’s some major money to drop on the heads isn’t it?!

[spoolin70]

I've still got mine but it's in boxes spread over two counties 

[spoolin70]

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine 

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

[andy198712]

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine 

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

looks like 3inch to me? 

i'm currently weighing up keeping the WBX head stud pattern and looking into 4in bore.... or going smaller 

[UltraOrange67-2443]

Still building mine, about 7 years now 

I’ve just brought a wbx to aircool and I’m thinking about it, but it’s some major money to drop on the heads isn’t it?!

Not just the heads!

[andy198712]

Still building mine, about 7 years now 

I’ve just brought a wbx to aircool and I’m thinking about it, but it’s some major money to drop on the heads isn’t it?!

Not just the heads!

This is true.
The thing that catches me eye is the gap between the cylinders is so small, I don’t use my car as a daily anymore but I like to drive it and plan a trip to Europe once it’s all up and running I think so need something that can handle the distance okay at sensible speeds (60-70 prolonged)

[spoolin70]

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine 

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

looks like 3inch to me? 

i'm currently weighing up keeping the WBX head stud pattern and looking into 4in bore.... or going smaller 

Wooden cylinders are a lot cheaper than Pauter but I suspect they don't cool as well 

Andy - what did you have in mind for pistons and barrels ?

[pupjoint]

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

[UltraOrange67-2443]

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

This Virus ain't helping my 4" build!

[richie]

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

It is here   Depends on what you want to do with it? race or street? N/A/turbo/nitrous?

cheers Richie

[richie]

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

This Virus ain't helping my 4" build!

What actually is the hold up on it? seems like you been waiting several years?

cheers Richie

[andy198712]

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine 

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

looks like 3inch to me? 

i'm currently weighing up keeping the WBX head stud pattern and looking into 4in bore.... or going smaller 

Wooden cylinders are a lot cheaper than Pauter but I suspect they don't cool as well 

Andy - what did you have in mind for pistons and barrels ?

Deutz or Porsche 964 I’m thinking.... pistons I don’t know but more then likely have some made unless I find some that fit well....
Long term build though, probably 100mm bore too maybe... who knows. The heads are the main factor, was look at aircraft heads earlier in an oxyboxer build from lambiech (sp)

I’ve got another engine to finish and blow up first

[UltraOrange67-2443]

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

This Virus ain't helping my 4" build!

What actually is the hold up on it? seems like you been waiting several years?

cheers Richie

Very slow engine builder.

Got my parts back now

[pupjoint]

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

It is here   Depends on what you want to do with it? race or street? N/A/turbo/nitrous?

cheers Richie

80 % street with highway driving. 20% hill climb spirited driving and maybe once twice a year fun drag. 4 speed gearbox with 3.88 RP ratios to be spec out accordingly . NA with Type 1 cooling. Sequential EFI with Jenvey IDA throttle bodies. I have European RON 100 and RON 98mm TF-1 case is what I have in mind, need advise on the rest of the parts.  currently running sequential EFI 2332 with 170whp type 1 cooling 044 heads, Wasp Stage 1 exhaust. JPM heads only option?

[mikko k]

JPM heads are the best option for street use.

[brewsy]

The closest I've got is my 'eco' mock up engine 

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

Thats a 2x4 engine isnt it?? 

[DaveN]

If it’s for a Race car maybe but for a Road car waste of time and money.  How fast can you go on the road? Doesn’t matter if you have a 2.8 or a 2165 you won’t get traction.  It makes  more sense to me to use off the shelf parts 94mm B&P, CNC heads, etc for a road car or use those parts with a power adder if racing. They are cheaper, more available and you won’t be waiting years.

[Wray]

Here is mine pity it's on hold due to other projects




Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

[spoolin70]

If it’s for a Race car maybe but for a Road car waste of time and money.  How fast can you go on the road? Doesn’t matter if you have a 2.8 or a 2165 you won’t get traction.  It makes  more sense to me to use off the shelf parts 94mm B&P, CNC heads, etc for a road car or use those parts with a power adder if racing. They are cheaper, more available and you won’t be waiting years.

Do you have a heavy right foot Dave 

[DaveN]

Do you have a heavy right foot Dave 

Not particularly
But I’m sure you can see my point that it’s a waste of time buying expensive/exotic parts for a car that will spend its life on the road and won’t be able to put the power down.

I do actually own a 4” bore motor, noise out of choice. I tried to sell it but unless I wanted to give it away, I couldn’t sell it so I built it.

[andy198712]

Do you have a heavy right foot Dave 

Not particularly
But I’m sure you can see my point that it’s a waste of time buying expensive/exotic parts for a car that will spend its life on the road and won’t be able to put the power down.

I do actually own a 4” bore motor, noise out of choice. I tried to sell it but unless I wanted to give it away, I couldn’t sell it so I built it.

if i do one, it will just be the challenge of doing it.... just as a hobby and personal interest

[Eddie DVK]

If it’s for a Race car maybe but for a Road car waste of time and money.  How fast can you go on the road? Doesn’t matter if you have a 2.8 or a 2165 you won’t get traction.  It makes  more sense to me to use off the shelf parts 94mm B&P, CNC heads, etc for a road car or use those parts with a power adder if racing. They are cheaper, more available and you won’t be waiting years.

Just to scare audi s tesla s en mercs, a 170hp engine won t do that anymore.

[DaveN]

I
Just to scare audi s tesla s en mercs, a 170hp engine won t do that anymore.

Most of these modern cars are AWD now and the 0-60 times are getting lower even the heavy ones, E series , 5 series, etc.

[richie]

4" bore still popular today?

thinking of getting some parts for one with TF-1 case. what bore and stroke is recomended and who sells the crank, rods, pistons?

It is here   Depends on what you want to do with it? race or street? N/A/turbo/nitrous?

cheers Richie

80 % street with highway driving. 20% hill climb spirited driving and maybe once twice a year fun drag. 4 speed gearbox with 3.88 RP ratios to be spec out accordingly . NA with Type 1 cooling. Sequential EFI with Jenvey IDA throttle bodies. I have European RON 100 and RON 98mm TF-1 case is what I have in mind, need advise on the rest of the parts.  currently running sequential EFI 2332 with 170whp type 1 cooling 044 heads, Wasp Stage 1 exhaust. JPM heads only option?

If you got the budget then 82x101.6 ,5.4 rod with "C" pin height piston keeps it nice and narrow and pushrods short, I would do flange crank and get thrust set up done to the tf1 case, there are few heads out there that can be used or made to work [like cb comp elims with no stud pattern] JPMs probably cool the best but both angleflos and comp elims been proven to work on street and cool good enough, and there are some others from Thorsten pieper that look like they would cool well 

[-Alex-]

I sold mr. piepers heads over year ago and havent yet ordered my own design heads. Maybe later at this year.  I already have all valvetrain parts and material for valvecovers, it is one reason that i am not goiing to order off the shelf heads.

[-Alex-]

If it’s for a Race car maybe but for a Road car waste of time and money.  How fast can you go on the road? Doesn’t matter if you have a 2.8 or a 2165 you won’t get traction.  It makes  more sense to me to use off the shelf parts 94mm B&P, CNC heads, etc for a road car or use those parts with a power adder if racing. They are cheaper, more available and you won’t be waiting years.

Just to scare audi s tesla s en mercs, a 170hp engine won t do that anymore.

Yeah, more displamecent is needed, atleast 2400cc with high +85hp/liter tune, fuel injection migth help and on the circuits/highways 5-speed close ratio transaxle.

[Fiatdude]

Add boost to what you have -- with 7 PSI you easily have 250 HP -- I had a 3 liter (2990) (4.060" x 90mm) and it was very difficult to keep it cool in SoCal driving it around. Maybe it you went 4" and keep the size down around 2500 it might live better. But I like the performance of a boosted engine a lot better...

[spoolin70]

Add boost to what you have -- with 7 PSI you easily have 250 HP -- I had a 3 liter (2990) (4.060" x 90mm) and it was very difficult to keep it cool in SoCal driving it around. Maybe it you went 4" and keep the size down around 2500 it might live better. But I like the performance of a boosted engine a lot better...

Was it the outside temperature that meant you couldn't keep it cool or the install/design of the system ? With hindsitght do you think you could control it now.

I always presumed with enough oil coolers and fans you could keep an engine cool enough.

Mine won't have an oil cooler in the fanhousing (oil ways blocked off) but thought I could easily compensate with 2x decent sized, well placed, good quality oil coolers with fans fitted. Or am I wrong