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Author Topic: Fanshrouds??  (Read 18533 times)
Jim Ratto
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« Reply #30 on: January 09, 2009, 23:38:05 pm »

What Frenchy said.  I still like the round 40 the best, too.  If I had my druthers, I'd add a remote cooler for the hot summer months we get here.  The fact that your able to change plugs without being a contortionist is a big plus.  OEM = quality Cool / Aftermarket = hours spent modifying, cussing, bleeding and misery Angry.

dude... could your motor get any cleaner? Geeezz....   Grin
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ian c
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« Reply #31 on: January 09, 2009, 23:42:30 pm »

Sarge, yours is an OEM 36hp? What are the 40hp look like?

jesse ,
thats a 40hp stale air shroud Wink
« Last Edit: January 09, 2009, 23:44:03 pm by ian c » Logged

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Sarge
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« Reply #32 on: January 10, 2009, 01:20:06 am »

What Frenchy said.  I still like the round 40 the best, too.  If I had my druthers, I'd add a remote cooler for the hot summer months we get here.  The fact that your able to change plugs without being a contortionist is a big plus.  OEM = quality Cool / Aftermarket = hours spent modifying, cussing, bleeding and misery Angry.

dude... could your motor get any cleaner? Geeezz....   Grin


Thanx, bro.... first Margarita's on me tomorrow Wink Cool


But OEM didn't come with a doghouse or did they?? Sarge, yours is an OEM 36hp? What are the 40hp look like?


What Ian said, Jesse.... no doghouse on the back.  I've been using a 356 Porsche cooler inside that 40hp shroud.  Like I mentioned, an external cooler would make things sweet in the summer with this set-up.
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lawrence
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« Reply #33 on: January 10, 2009, 01:34:06 am »

What Frenchy said.  I still like the round 40 the best, too.  If I had my druthers, I'd add a remote cooler for the hot summer months we get here.  The fact that your able to change plugs without being a contortionist is a big plus.  OEM = quality Cool / Aftermarket = hours spent modifying, cussing, bleeding and misery Angry.

dude... could your motor get any cleaner? Geeezz....   Grin

Sarge never drives his car, he just wipes it down all the time. Seriously though, that stale air 40hp shourd is kinda uncommon because I think they only came on early, bastard engines??
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #34 on: January 10, 2009, 01:41:41 am »

What Frenchy said.  I still like the round 40 the best, too.  If I had my druthers, I'd add a remote cooler for the hot summer months we get here.  The fact that your able to change plugs without being a contortionist is a big plus.  OEM = quality Cool / Aftermarket = hours spent modifying, cussing, bleeding and misery Angry.

dude... could your motor get any cleaner? Geeezz....   Grin

Sarge never drives his car, he just wipes it down all the time. Seriously though, that stale air 40hp shourd is kinda uncommon because I think they only came on early, bastard engines??

yeah becuase there was a stale air shroud that was the same shape as 13-15-1600 shrouds... I wonder what the production run was on those. Did the KG and the Bus run a different one w/o the indent (since air cleaner was hung to the right)?
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Sarge
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« Reply #35 on: January 10, 2009, 01:58:28 am »

I'm "thinking" that shroud was only a 66 or 67 bus.  My '63 sedan came with a stale air 40hp shroud that was flat on top.
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lawrence
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« Reply #36 on: January 10, 2009, 02:08:57 am »

I did a quick samba gallery search and it looks like beetles, buses and ghias all had the dent at the top of the shroud. There weren't many hits on the search, so I could be wrong. VW change over stuff is kinda screwy. Nothing was set in stone and improvements were made when necessary.
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javabug
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« Reply #37 on: January 10, 2009, 03:16:42 am »

Sarge, yours is an OEM 36hp? What are the 40hp look like?

jesse ,
thats a 40hp stale air shroud Wink



40 h.p. stale air on the left, Scat 36 on the right.

Yet another angle to throw everybody off...Maize uses the 40 h.p. on his 2276 with small fan, external cooler only, and F.I. venturi ring added.  Runs perfectly cool in humid Pennsylvania summers.  No major highway time, but it drives 20 miles or so to the track, raced, and driven home.

You mileage may vary.
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #38 on: January 10, 2009, 03:39:46 am »


   Thanks Sarge

   Just for everyone information I remember back in the 70's FAT performance talking with Ron Fleming he liked the later 40 HP shrouds because as Sarge mentioned it had a clean look and was easier to get to adjust the 48 IDA and to get to the plugs. With patience you can modify a 40 HP and add the dog house cooler.

  Thanks
  Frenchy
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Hotrodvw
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« Reply #39 on: January 10, 2009, 04:52:34 am »

I've read from more than a few individuals that CB's 36hp Doghouse Scat shroud has the best cooling and is the most correct as far as vane placement goes.  I run it, and have had no issues w/ heat. 
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Donny B.
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« Reply #40 on: January 10, 2009, 16:48:21 pm »

Quote
Seriously though, that stale air 40hp shourd is kinda uncommon because I think they only came on early, bastard engines??

My '61 Bug came with one stock.
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richie
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« Reply #41 on: January 10, 2009, 22:55:18 pm »

How about get rid of cooler and run external fan and cooler so motor get more air to the cooling fins?

Thats what I have in the cabrio,I use a Scat 36hp style shroud without doghouse,but berg welded doghouse fan,then oil coller block off and remote 14row oil cooler with electric fan,seems ok to me

cheers richie,uk
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #42 on: January 12, 2009, 21:53:03 pm »

I wonder why VW changed the shape of the fan housing, from the semi-circular 36/early 40hp style to the later, flat topped style.

1. cooling efficiency? Did the 36hp profile limit air flow and room for directional airfoils inside?
2. manufacturing ease or costs?
3. ?

or ?

Interesting to think about.

FWIW, Porsche left the 356/912 fan housing profile alone. I know they changed the duct into the fan, and on Super 90's/912, how the hot air escaped from motor.

 Huh
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Hotrodvw
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« Reply #43 on: January 12, 2009, 22:20:22 pm »

The 36/40 hp style shroud makes more sense as far as the arc of the air flow, and the way the vanes are positioned.  No idea why it was changed.  Good question Jim!
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #44 on: January 12, 2009, 22:25:55 pm »

The 36/40 hp style shroud makes more sense as far as the arc of the air flow, and the way the vanes are positioned.  No idea why it was changed.  Good question Jim!

maybe it was part of the planned fresh air heating system to be debuted with 40hp (later model)? Maybe the profile of the shroud was better suited to directing a portion of the blown air into heater ducts. But why the stale air flat top shroud?
It had to have cost VW lots of $ to change tooling.
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Chris W
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« Reply #45 on: January 12, 2009, 22:42:23 pm »

What about a industrial shroud with a external cooler? That would give you more air than the 36hp style? No heater out lets, just less room around the carbs.





« Last Edit: January 12, 2009, 23:10:09 pm by Chris W » Logged
Hotrodvw
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« Reply #46 on: January 12, 2009, 23:08:13 pm »

Pic no worky
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181
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« Reply #47 on: February 26, 2009, 20:20:00 pm »

IŽm going to use SCAT 36 HP style shroud with doghouse, IŽll install flaps and thermostat from a stock engine and IŽll laso have lower engine tins and industrial tins that cover the gap between lower engine tins and header tubes on my 2276.

The "181" guy is using a Scat shroud?! Cheesy Wink

well in Europe first series of 181 (until 1972) were equipped with 1500 singleport with non doghouse non heater outlets shroud (gas heater in car) and gearbox from a split bus :-P

Although I can get hold of a famous 181 quite easily, IŽll use Scat shroud due to smaller dimensions.
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deano
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« Reply #48 on: February 26, 2009, 21:59:21 pm »

As I recall, the 36hp housings really don't sit on a late case right, due to a bolt boss that is right in the way. You have to cut out a small section on the bottom front for it to sit square on the case. The early 40hp works and sits much better, since it was designed for the later case shape. Beware of some of the aftermarket 36hp dog house fan housings..... There is a huge air gap between the cooler and the lower housing sheet metal. Before you use one of these housings, turn it upside down, fit your dog house cooler inside the compartment, and look at the seal around it. You might be in for a shock! There needs to be a tight air seal around the base of the cooler. It's hard to beat a late model OEM housing (Thing too).
« Last Edit: February 26, 2009, 22:01:17 pm by deano » Logged

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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #49 on: February 26, 2009, 22:59:25 pm »

As I recall, the 36hp housings really don't sit on a late case right, due to a bolt boss that is right in the way. You have to cut out a small section on the bottom front for it to sit square on the case. The early 40hp works and sits much better, since it was designed for the later case shape. Beware of some of the aftermarket 36hp dog house fan housings..... There is a huge air gap between the cooler and the lower housing sheet metal. Before you use one of these housings, turn it upside down, fit your dog house cooler inside the compartment, and look at the seal around it. You might be in for a shock! There needs to be a tight air seal around the base of the cooler. It's hard to beat a late model OEM housing (Thing too).

you're right, they don't fit the 40hp & later case, without trimming. Sheep tried using a VW 36hp shroud on one of his motors, and lost his temper trying to get the thign to lay down on the motor nicely. I came over later and asked what the dimples were in the top on the shroud. he said "from my fist"
 Shocked
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« Reply #50 on: March 01, 2009, 12:15:40 pm »

I installed many 36hp shrouds from various suppliers. I have never really compared two shrouds side by side or even opened them to compare the veins. (If I remember correctly there was once a article about shrouds in a HotWV’s issue). Hasn't it occurred to anyone that these shrouds might all come from one and the same Chinese manufacturer. I don't think there is much difference between EMPI, Bugpack, Scat or CB Performance... Please tell me if I am wrong. (If I remember right I once realized a difference in the area of the fresh air outlet scoops between a doghouse and a non doghouse 36HP shroud)
All I know is that I have to spend countless hours to get any of them fit right. I took me 3 h and bleeding fingers to install factory flaps to a 36hp shroud. (*Yes I like to run the original thermostatically controlled flaps) If accessibility or looks is not the main reason I would stick to an OEM shroud.

Welded fans or not? I used original German fans in all my engines and the see occasional RPMs of 6.5K without any issues. Granted if an engine revs higher I can see that a welded (OEM) fan might be a good investment. To me, the key to a good reliable engine is use as many "Made in Germany" parts as possible. Rather a dirty, filthy old German Fan than a shiny new welded Chinese fan. (Same applies to cheep cranks etc...)

*Why flaps? They do not restrict airflow as much, they direct the cooling air to the proper location at any time and they cool some parts of the engine earlier than others. Keep in mind that the engine parts such as cylinders and heads and bolts all have different expansion rates. By installing the flaps, engines have a tendency to stay dry (no leaks) longer.

Doghouse cooler or not? I like the doghouse offset cooler as it doesn’t restrict airflow to the left head as much. I like to use the original oil cooler and run an thermostatically controlled additional cooler within the full flow system. If necessary you can add an additional fan to that one. This set up keeps the flow restrictions of the cold oil to a minimum. (small oil circuit) as the oil gets thinner the restrictions by oil tubing is not such a big issue anymore and the additional circuit to the 2nd cooler helps to keep the oil temperature down.

Maybe I am wrong and I an open to suggestions.

Cheers Dom
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« Reply #51 on: March 01, 2009, 19:27:27 pm »

Just a idea, but with the bump in the bottom of the later fan shroud. May be some of the air is redirected back to the case area instead of all to the head area. Just a guess
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Deanodynosaurs
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« Reply #52 on: November 10, 2010, 14:42:09 pm »

This is a really intresting topic as I have been doing some research on the most effective fanhousing for the motor I'm building up.

However, as do many here, I also have concerns about clearance issues using a later genuine fan as I'm gonna be running duel carbs, and I'm also as not going to be running heat exchangers, thus I don't need the air outlets.

As for repro fanhousings the concensus seems to be that whilst SCAT fanshrouds are ok, there not as good as a genuine fanshroud.

However, I found this modification to a genuine later fanshroud, which seems to slove all these problems.

http://www.newlancsvwclub.co.uk/Project_pages/Projectpages_page0002.htm

Although its lot of work, it does seem like at the end of it you do get a really good fanshroud with correct internal vains, and cooling properties of the OEM item.

Was just intrested to see what everybody thought about it?

Dude  Cool
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1957lowlight
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« Reply #53 on: November 10, 2010, 22:37:11 pm »

Jesse,

I think there is a difference in use.  Do you drive your car 500 km to a meeting?  I do, so I choose to use a big fan and an external cooler.  In trafic use the external cooler don't work (unless you have an electric cooling fan), that's why I certainly wanted the big fan in my fanshroud.  I also liked the 36 horse style so I bought a CB first and then a SCAT.  Unless an other brand, I think they are made in the same factory, as the generator holes where in the 2 exemples bored wrong, something you don't find in original shrouds and can be very nasty with a Berg linkage which has to be straight.  I wanted the 36 hp shroud becouse of the extra space for my IDA's.  With my other motor I had a 181 shroud and had problems installing and removing the carbs with the engine in the car.

Hope you can make your decision now, with an extra advice.  Hereby a picture of my engine.

Philip
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glenn
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« Reply #54 on: November 10, 2010, 23:00:22 pm »

All I know is what has worked for me. My 1904 lasted 97,000 miles and my current 2180 has 12,000 miles. Both has all factory tin with a Type 181 shroud, stock Type 1 oil cooler, 1.5qt sump, remote filter and never needed a secondary cooler. Oil is 10W-30, timing is 30 BTDC, 9.5:1 cr, 93 octane oil temps have never exceeded 205F even climbing hills on 95F days cruising at 75mph.

OEM tin fits like a glove.
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Speed-Randy
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« Reply #55 on: November 10, 2010, 23:39:28 pm »

Ok, so a Bugpack or Berg fan, and the fanshroud, as long it is a SCAT, CB or Bugpack it should be ok? Weld the internal vains or use the thermostat?
those are all coming out of the same place in Taiwan, all of them. they do fit better than they used to, but if you want to run the berg linkage, the backing plate bolts are "clocked" different than stock so your linkage wont be straight. Like Sarge said"OEM equals quality"
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pupjoint
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« Reply #56 on: November 11, 2010, 02:47:25 am »

OK!....
Get a VW fan and have it welded (by the right folks)!!!
36 shroud OK!.....after powdercoat or paint ...silicone the veins..
Then go out and .... ,,,,,,

i dont like the idea of siliconing the vanes. why not just tack weld them from behind and powdercoat?
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pupjoint
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« Reply #57 on: November 11, 2010, 02:50:48 am »

Ok guys, I'm at the point of buying a fanshroud for my new 1915 engine. What fanshrouds are good to use? I know a 181 shroud is good but I like the look of a 30/36hp shroud. I know SCAT and CB sell a black 36hp fanshroud with doghouse. Are they any good?

I don't believe a 36hp shroud came with a doghouse from VW??

Also I want to know if I should use a stock or a welded fan?

the 181 shroud is way overrated in my opinion. first jake tested and found they cool just the same as the normal doghouse.

second, a lot are telling the vanes are slightly different than normal doghouse to compensate for the lack of heaters horns, makes sense but not a single pic i have seen to confirm this. so untill a pic is shown, it is just science fiction to me.
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pupjoint
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« Reply #58 on: November 11, 2010, 02:54:09 am »

How about get rid of cooler and run external fan and cooler so motor get more air to the cooling fins?

Thats what I have in the cabrio,I use a Scat 36hp style shroud without doghouse,but berg welded doghouse fan,then oil coller block off and remote 14row oil cooler with electric fan,seems ok to me

cheers richie,uk


i believe late Mark Herbert also tried this and reported good results....
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javabug
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« Reply #59 on: November 11, 2010, 04:22:03 am »


the 181 shroud is way overrated in my opinion. first jake tested and found they cool just the same as the normal doghouse.


I always thought the big attraction of the Thing/Trekker/181 shroud was simply that it is a factory piece with no heater outlets, which suits us hi-po, no heat tuff guys.

I am happy with my "Scat" doghouse 36.  Yes, it needs a little work, but that really doesn't bother me.
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Mike H.

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