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Author Topic: Fanshrouds??  (Read 18531 times)
Jesse/DVK
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« on: January 08, 2009, 18:07:11 pm »

Ok guys, I'm at the point of buying a fanshroud for my new 1915 engine. What fanshrouds are good to use? I know a 181 shroud is good but I like the look of a 30/36hp shroud. I know SCAT and CB sell a black 36hp fanshroud with doghouse. Are they any good?

I don't believe a 36hp shroud came with a doghouse from VW??

Also I want to know if I should use a stock or a welded fan?

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peach_
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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2009, 18:16:19 pm »

I heard that the 36hp one restricts cooling compared to the more effecient latter model ones?

And id deffinatley go welded fan after seeing this  Shocked Shocked



http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_1HA1H4cmIbI/SRmX9h-Q0iI/AAAAAAAABD8/5ARNm1QWCO0/s1600-h/a4.jpg
« Last Edit: January 08, 2009, 18:19:13 pm by peach_ » Logged

1966 java green looker- 2276 Street Machine, with standard gear box@ 14.5 (2013), With Pro Street Box @ 13.5 (2014), still more to come!

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benssp
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« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2009, 18:29:49 pm »

definitely a welded fan, had one let go many years ago, even snapped the dynamo stand
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2009, 18:38:29 pm »

I like the stock VW fan shroud for cooling but not for access! Most work on the motor on my car reqires removing the decklid and the 48mm Webers. An option is the Industrial Brazil fan shroud.... much more compact. I ran one on my father's 2054 in his Transporter and on Sheep's 1914 IDA motor.

As far as fans go.... Bugpack's welded fan is probably the best out there. they use a OEM VW fan, weld the blades, balance them and coat them for corrosion. I have one in my '67.
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2009, 18:41:34 pm »

Thanks for the quick replies.

So I go for a welded fan. I think this one http://www.vwspeedshop.com/shop/product.php?productid=16428&cat=380&page=1

They also sell fanshrouds, if I look at the engine detailing topic I see a lot 36hp so it should work?
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2009, 20:04:50 pm »

i guess the choice of fan shroud is a trade-off between looks and cooling performance. but so many people run aftermarket 36hp shrouds, so i guess they ain't too bad after all.

jesse, if you're gonna get that fan, can you get me one as well? Wink
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Diederick
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louisb
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« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2009, 20:20:42 pm »

Be careful of which welded fan shroud you buy. There has been some problems with some of them coming apart. I like the Berg unit and the price is reasonable.

--louis
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Louis Brooks

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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2009, 20:34:47 pm »

i guess the choice of fan shroud is a trade-off between looks and cooling performance. but so many people run aftermarket 36hp shrouds, so i guess they ain't too bad after all.

jesse, if you're gonna get that fan, can you get me one as well? Wink

accessibility is a key point too
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Diederick/DVK
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« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2009, 20:39:34 pm »

fair point Wink
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Diederick
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2009, 20:58:11 pm »

Be careful of which welded fan shroud you buy. There has been some problems with some of them coming apart. I like the Berg unit and the price is reasonable.

--louis

Agreed.
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2009, 21:08:29 pm »

Ok, so a Bugpack or Berg fan, and the fanshroud, as long it is a SCAT, CB or Bugpack it should be ok? Weld the internal vains or use the thermostat?
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airstuff
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« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2009, 21:18:29 pm »

Sorry for OT Jesse,any info on Bugpack welded fans guys.

I decided to go with the stock doghouse,stock oil cooler,and deciding to run a thermostat or not run the termostat.

Jesse will you run flaps on your shroud?
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lawrence
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« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2009, 23:23:27 pm »

I have had zero issues with the Berg welded fan on my 1914 which sees blasts up to 6k regularly. I also have a scat 36hp doghouse and I am pleased with the fit and finish. I followed Mark Herbert's advice and put a bead of silicone sealant on all the internal vanes I could get to. A preventative measure to make sure the vanes don't vibrate loose. Also, if you plan on using braided fuel line with AN fittings you will have to use 90 degree fittings off of your carbs so that they will clear the shroud.
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"Happiness is a Hot VW!"
181
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« Reply #13 on: January 09, 2009, 00:01:51 am »

IŽm going to use SCAT 36 HP style shroud with doghouse, IŽll install flaps and thermostat from a stock engine and IŽll laso have lower engine tins and industrial tins that cover the gap between lower engine tins and header tubes on my 2276.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #14 on: January 09, 2009, 00:30:01 am »

IŽm going to use SCAT 36 HP style shroud with doghouse, IŽll install flaps and thermostat from a stock engine and IŽll laso have lower engine tins and industrial tins that cover the gap between lower engine tins and header tubes on my 2276.

The "181" guy is using a Scat shroud?! Cheesy Wink
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jick
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« Reply #15 on: January 09, 2009, 01:07:54 am »

i have no direct experience, but i'm pretty sure i've read on the American forum in the past that lots of guys that had used scat welded fans had experienced problems......best to stick with a welded up OEM one.
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Gary Justus
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« Reply #16 on: January 09, 2009, 02:05:56 am »

OK!....
Get a VW fan and have it welded (by the right folks)!!!
36 shroud OK!.....after powdercoat or paint ...silicone the veins..
Then go out and .... ,,,,,,
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Dave Rosique
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« Reply #17 on: January 09, 2009, 06:21:14 am »

I like the stock VW fan shroud for cooling but not for access! Most work on the motor on my car reqires removing the decklid and the 48mm Webers. An option is the Industrial Brazil fan shroud.... much more compact. I ran one on my father's 2054 in his Transporter and on Sheep's 1914 IDA motor.

As far as fans go.... Bugpack's welded fan is probably the best out there. they use a OEM VW fan, weld the blades, balance them and coat them for corrosion. I have one in my '67.

Ditto what Jim said.

For best cooling, I prefer a fan shroud from a 75-79 fuel injection beetle that has the additional air horn on the air inlet. I run them with the flaps intact and wired open...

~DR.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #18 on: January 09, 2009, 17:03:36 pm »

Ditto what Jim said.

For best cooling, I prefer a fan shroud from a 75-79 fuel injection beetle that has the additional air horn on the air inlet. I run them with the flaps intact and wired open...

~DR.

Now, I'm not a scientist so I haven't proven this in that way, but have you ever compared the shrouds from a FI Beetle and an earlier doghouse? Specifically the part where the air is routed for the oil coooler. There are 3 types that I've seen, the FI Beetle uses a simple ovaled hole, whereas the one that I prefer has a large "scoop", seemingly grabbing a lot more air for the oil cooler. My theory is the factory sacrificed a little oil cooling on the FI beetles in order to try and keep those hot running heads in check (which is also why the air horn was there). The best thing to do is drill off the air horn and install it in an earlier "scooped" doghouse shroud, IMO.
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louisb
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« Reply #19 on: January 09, 2009, 17:09:00 pm »

I like the stock VW fan shroud for cooling but not for access! Most work on the motor on my car reqires removing the decklid and the 48mm Webers. An option is the Industrial Brazil fan shroud.... much more compact. I ran one on my father's 2054 in his Transporter and on Sheep's 1914 IDA motor.

As far as fans go.... Bugpack's welded fan is probably the best out there. they use a OEM VW fan, weld the blades, balance them and coat them for corrosion. I have one in my '67.

Ditto what Jim said.

For best cooling, I prefer a fan shroud from a 75-79 fuel injection beetle that has the additional air horn on the air inlet. I run them with the flaps intact and wired open...

~DR.

There was a guy repoing that piece to be used on earlier fan shrouds but I can't seem to find the ad on the samba anymore.

--louis
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Louis Brooks

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Dave Rosique
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nobodyouno


« Reply #20 on: January 09, 2009, 17:14:03 pm »

Ditto what Jim said.

For best cooling, I prefer a fan shroud from a 75-79 fuel injection beetle that has the additional air horn on the air inlet. I run them with the flaps intact and wired open...

~DR.

Now, I'm not a scientist so I haven't proven this in that way, but have you ever compared the shrouds from a FI Beetle and an earlier doghouse? Specifically the part where the air is routed for the oil coooler. There are 3 types that I've seen, the FI Beetle uses a simple ovaled hole, whereas the one that I prefer has a large "scoop", seemingly grabbing a lot more air for the oil cooler. My theory is the factory sacrificed a little oil cooling on the FI beetles in order to try and keep those hot running heads in check (which is also why the air horn was there). The best thing to do is drill off the air horn and install it in an earlier "scooped" doghouse shroud, IMO.

Your probably right...

Installing the air horn on the earlier shroud sounds like a great idea.
I still prefer to run the flaps fixed in the open position rather than remove them... your thoughts?

~DR.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #21 on: January 09, 2009, 17:19:23 pm »

I prefer to run the flaps like the factory intended, fully functioning. Warm up is faster, and the heater works more effectively (if still equipped).
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danny gabbard
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« Reply #22 on: January 09, 2009, 17:38:06 pm »

How about get rid of cooler and run external fan and cooler so motor get more air to the cooling fins?
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #23 on: January 09, 2009, 18:09:48 pm »

How about get rid of cooler and run external fan and cooler so motor get more air to the cooling fins?

Hi Danny that's something I've been thinking about for a long time now. Why not block airflow to doghouse duct, use the wide B fan, and run an enternal cooler either in full flow loop or off top of case, with one of those RAPID COOL adapter blocks. The air that was dedicated to flow to doghouse, woudl have to exit elsewhere... and that would be the exit to heads. Where else can it go?

I think, had the Bug been a performance-minded car from the factory, they would have engineered it to remove the cooler from the engine compartment. But since the VW was a budget minded thing, they weren't going to engineer oil lines, etc.... like a 911 Porsche.

Sure would be easy to do the mod, especially for a handy guy like you dude.
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drgouk
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« Reply #24 on: January 09, 2009, 19:40:50 pm »

How about get rid of cooler and run external fan and cooler so motor get more air to the cooling fins?

Hi Danny that's something I've been thinking about for a long time now. Why not block airflow to doghouse duct, use the wide B fan, and run an enternal cooler either in full flow loop or off top of case, with one of those RAPID COOL adapter blocks. The air that was dedicated to flow to doghouse, woudl have to exit elsewhere... and that would be the exit to heads. Where else can it go?

I think, had the Bug been a performance-minded car from the factory, they would have engineered it to remove the cooler from the engine compartment. But since the VW was a budget minded thing, they weren't going to engineer oil lines, etc.... like a 911 Porsche.

Sure would be easy to do the mod, especially for a handy guy like you dude.

Thats exactly what im going to do on my next engine.  I think it should work well with a nice big setrab oil cooler.
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Zach Gomulka
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« Reply #25 on: January 09, 2009, 21:07:22 pm »

You can stuff a doghouse fan in a 36hp shroud, so why not do that? I wonder if there are any problems with removing the internal cooler... good question for Jake Raby.
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Frenchy Dehoux
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« Reply #26 on: January 09, 2009, 21:15:51 pm »


     I like the later style 40 HP which has the same look as the 36 HP except that the 36 HP shroud will need to be modified in the lower center because it will not clear and stay evenly where the center of the case. The later 40 HP shroud has a small square indentation at the top center for the original air cleaner to clear. There for the later 40 HP is a better fit. If you buy the Scat style with the dog house and you are going and use the Berg cross bar linkage one of the upper hole ( left ) for the rear generator shroud the hole is offset and the Berg cross bar linkage will be at a different angle. If you use a center pull linkage than it will not matter . When these reproduction dog house shroud were made this perticular hole was offset from day one. I have a few of the early Puma style shrouds.

  Thanks !!!!

   Frenchy
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Jim Ratto
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« Reply #27 on: January 09, 2009, 21:56:56 pm »

You can stuff a doghouse fan in a 36hp shroud, so why not do that?

     If you buy the Scat style with the dog house and you are going and use the Berg cross bar linkage one of the upper hole ( left ) for the rear generator shroud the hole is offset and the Berg cross bar linkage will be at a different angle.
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Sarge
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« Reply #28 on: January 09, 2009, 23:16:44 pm »

What Frenchy said.  I still like the round 40 the best, too.  If I had my druthers, I'd add a remote cooler for the hot summer months we get here.  The fact that your able to change plugs without being a contortionist is a big plus.  OEM = quality Cool / Aftermarket = hours spent modifying, cussing, bleeding and misery Angry.
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Jesse/DVK
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« Reply #29 on: January 09, 2009, 23:27:08 pm »

But OEM didn't come with a doghouse or did they?? Sarge, yours is an OEM 36hp? What are the 40hp look like?
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Der Vollgas Kreuzers
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