[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] Here is the dyno sheet

Shocks are definitively necessary. I ask GAZ shocks, but they don't do dual adjusters ones.
I'll will have a look at AVO.
Car is basically set up as a gasser, without lot's front weight.

Hi Richie,

Yes, I'm glad I got this car, that's a long time dream of me.

Front beam is balljoint, stock spindles, lowered on adjusters.
I don't know my gear ratios. I cross the line a bit less than 7700rpm. I tried with the rev limiter at 7500 and I hit it just before the finish line. It got a spool and weddle straight cut gears, that's all I know.
I have the dyno sheet of the rolling dyno, I'll post that later.
Car should be less than 600kg. I can weight it a some friends farm, they got a balance for cereals, I don't know where else to weight it. I could ask the MOT station if we could weight front and back to have some more usefull data, but I don't know if they will do a car without registration.
I installed a 2 steps for the last race at clastres and tried to launch at 5.000 and 5.500. 60ft were 1.54 and 1.51. It either spin the tires, do small wheelies or a bigger wheelie.
I do have vids, I'll try to upload that.

Sorry to be as usefully acurate as a hammer in a matches building contest, but I want to learn and improve.

Hi Many people forget how important a shock absorber is
Especially on a drag racing car
Front is good if you can adjust so you can change how much the front part lifts so the weight distribution from the front wheels to the rear tires
Rear is even more important that you have adjustment in the return side and pressure side
In the UK there is a shock absorber manufacturer called AVO who are cheap and work well for a sportsman car
Many people forget how the weight balance is late whether it is a Volkswagen or ProStock car
Many in the Volkswagen world lighten the car like crazy at the front then the balance becomes incorrect
In my world it is better to put a few kg of lead far down as far forward as possible because the weight balance on the car should make the car go forward as fast as possible Not high up in the sky for every inch it goes up how much slower it gets 60 F
/// M

Hi J-F

thats cool you got that car and are racing it   Is it ball joint or king and link front end? am sure better shocks at both ends would help.  Really to analyse it some more info would be needed, do you know gear ratios? and ring & pinion? some engine spec? and rpm you launch and shift at? maybe weight of car?
Any video of it launching?

cheers Richie

This is an original empi oil sump made by Lang in Canada. It is an excellent condition perfect for your display case or to use on your motor.

I am asking only $600 shipped within the US overseas please ask for shipping quote. I can send any detailed pictures of the sump and the parts that go with it.
[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

Last weekend during Scandinavian Callook & Classic I did a bit of shopping at the swap meet, a welded and balanced doghouse fan and 1.25:1 rockers.
I also took delivery of a nice shiny handle for the Berg shifter I have lying around.


Next on the agenda was the rear-view mirror. The old accessory mirror gives good visibility but doesn't look the part for what i'm after.


When I was repairing the rust on the car I found the original plug that replaces the rear-view mirror on the door hinge.


A "bullet" mirror from the UK (intended for Mini Cooper) with convex glass was purchased. I taped the mirror to the door to try to figure out where to mount it.



Instantly added at least 5 hp. As usual with these small mirrors, you can't see shit in them. That's the case here too... At least compared to the old mirror. But the convex glass does help a little!


Next up was the shifter. The Berg shifter isn't new (I'm guessing late '90s/early 2000s) and has 60% shorter throw than stock. It needed some polishing and cleaning up. The shiny parts were polished and the base was painted semi-gloss black.








A nice little kit to put together! The USA-made boot was also washed clean and treated with some tire dressing.
The shifter was assembled with MoS2 grease on the metal-to-metal parts and PTFE grease between the metal ball on the shifter and the nylon bushings.




Time to throw it in the car! Changing a shifter barely takes a minute! Not in this case! Apparently I'm a bit too much of an originality tart to cut up the original rubber carpet.


So all of a sudden I had a whole new project on my hands. New carpets for the entire interior...
I had quite a lot of carpet left over from working on my bus, so I grabbed that roll.




I also made templates of the floor.




Unfortunately, the small amount of binding I had left over from the bus was only enough for one of the front floor mats. More is on the way...



Next up was the floor carpet and the pieces by the door sills. I made templates to get a better fit against the A- and B-pillars than the original.








What a difference! Can't wait until everything has had the binding added for a more finished look!
Keep ripping out carpet! I'm going to remove the footrest on the passenger side, as well as the entire rear seat. I'll replace the rear seat with an MDF-panel and carpet over it.








With all the pieces cut and waiting for more binding, I tackled the headlight buckets, which had looked awful for far too long. I had some silver 1K spray paint on the shelf, which had to do as a cosmetic band-aid for the time being. I've also found a better looking chrome ring for the drivers side headlight.







Far from perfect. They'll definitely be rusty again by next season. But it'll have to do for now..
That's all for this time!

As title says. 78mm crank with Chevy journals

Thanks,
Glauco

pm..

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