my 67 has a 2 inch front axle, dropped spindels and red Konis, camber is set to -1°.
I am very happy with the setup in the front.
I managed to assemble a standard roll-bar to the narrowed beam, no need for a special part on my beam.
Maybe you can give it a try before you buy a narrowed one.

Steve, the fronts are 80-1787 and the rears are 80-1350, at least for a balljoint car.

@felix/DFL : Tyres are old...no cracks etc but they have to be 20 years? Tracking is good. I put the 24mm rear bars in because the originals were sagging and the engine is heavier than stock. I cant see a standard size front anti roll bar for narrowed beams listed anywhere. I may have to narrow the original.
@andrewlandon67 : Do you have a reference for the Koni shocks ? Part number ?

Thankyou
Steve

Ah ok, that's on the lower level with the tire pressure. I would maybe test a bit higher preassure at the back...

Not enough weight is also an effect that it rides bouncier, espacially with bigger torsion bar's at the back.
Put a spare tire at front if you don't have at this moment, and throw in some people or stuff and check how it behaves.

Track measurement front & BACK is spot on?
How old are the tires?

Totally agree, cars look really good 

wow, the car looks absolutely great finished from the outside.
Outstanding job 

I agree on the Koni / Billstein, rides much better.
But switching to IRS rear made it also a lot less bumpy than the swing ale.
Enjoy it a lot more than before.

Between the Konis and the bigger tires, my car became better at going over railroad crossings than my Saab, and while handling is also greatly improved, the ride improvement is possibly my favorite thing I've done to my car.

Thanks all for some quick input. Tyre pressures are pretty low (!) 1.3 front and 1.6 rear, so I dont think I can go lower there. I do have space for wider tyres on the front as I currently have a 6mm spacer so they fill the arches just right, so thats worth looking at. I do suspect the anti roll bar - it is indeed a big chunk of steel! I will see If I can find a std one for narrow beams. I do have a set of Koni Red somewhere....I recall trying them 30 years ago or so but that was without the current beam and rear torsion so could re visit those. May take me a while to do all that but will report back. Any other ideas are welcome!
I know it is a 50+ year old car and wont ride like a modern one, but I think I can do better :-) Its really about comfort so we use it more rather than speed into corners - I'm nervous of that anyway and I have other cars that will do that much better!
Thanks
Steve

Some setbacks, but alot has happened and progress has been made! I even think this will have to be two updates..
While waiting for the ordered 6V battery, I cleaned the floor mats. Quite a difference it made... The mats went back into the car together with new boots for the shifter and parking brake.








First off, I never managed to get hold of a 6V battery..(There appear to be a national shortage) Since I was planning to convert to 12V later, I didn’t want to buy one that was too expensive. The battery I ordered online on a Sunday still hadn’t been shipped by Wednesday. So, I canceled that order and instead ordered all the lightbulbs in 12V and bought myself a 12V battery from a local autoparts store.
I already had an electronic ignition kit lying around (Thanks to David Ruiz), and earlier this summer I got hold of an alternator kit at a good price. At this point, it would be quicker to convert the whole car than to order another 6V battery..

First, the engine came out so I could switch to the alternator.








Then the bulbs in the speedometer and fuel gauge were replaced. These bulbs had a small solder blob I had to file down. The solder kept the bulb from going all the way down into the holder, so they could twist and lock in place. This resulted in them making poor contact and flickering sporadically..


I had big problems building oil pressure in the engine, even with the 12V battery in the car. The engine coughed to life but the oil pressure warning light was still on..
To troubleshoot, I tried swapping the sensor. Same problem..
I pulled out the oil pressure sensor and put some paper outside the hole, turned the key but no oil came out..
I got a tip from a friend to feed the pump oil via the hole for the oil pressure sender. Lo and behold—It worked! Lots of oil came out when cranking.


The ignition was set and the carburetor adjusted! Cheers in the garage! I also made a spacer for the carburetor with the help of a paper template. That spacer turned out.. functional..



To be able to get out for a test drive, I wanted to get the fenders on and the rest of the electrics! Starting with the rear fenders.





Polished up the T-bars and mounted them too!




The other side as well, of course!


The license plate light got its 12V bulb and a little freshening up.



Then the front fenders slipped into place. Quite a bit of trimming was needed to get the trim strip around the end of the fender right.





Washed off the running boards since they had gotten really dirty from lying on the shelf so long. I took the opportunity to apply rubber/tire treatment to them as well. Mounted the stainless trim and put them on the car. Very pleased with the fit of both running boards and fenders.






In went my sports seat that I made in 4th grade woodshop, and off for a spin around the neighborhood!




I can hardly believe it’s my car. It changes so insanely much just by getting fenders and working lights on it.


To be continued...