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11
on: August 19, 2026, 17:38:49 pm
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Started by Glauco - Last post by richie
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No idea on who ported them but it will be a nightmare to get them to seal between ports so I would not use them
cheers Richie
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12
on: August 19, 2026, 15:47:23 pm
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Started by bugster1 - Last post by bugster1
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Hi looking for a complett dogring kit for quick shifts mayby inkl instalation
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13
on: August 19, 2026, 10:04:47 am
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Started by Glauco - Last post by Glauco
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OK Loungers,
Before I accept my defeat and ask it on FB, I want to try it here first :-)
I've had these heads several years now and I just want to know if anyone recognizes the work. The guy I got them from got them out of a big batch of 70s-80s high performance parts that he bought true auction here in Belgium, but the shop it originally came from was US based. He didn't have a clue what shop and why it was auctioned. He bought the parts somewhere around 5 - 10 years ago, nobody knows how long they have been in Europe prior to that. they are (old?) MOFOCO 041 castings, rather rough around the edges still. exhaust seats are for 40*35.5 [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
the inlet ports are enlarged allot, so much both ports touch, not sure if this is going to be usable as such. They used Defcon or Belzona to work around the thin walls, there is a little spot of Defcon/Belzona visible on the inlet itself [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Exhaust port at the flange is only ~30mm (~1 1/16"), so I want to believe they were never finished. they did shave the valve guide flush
they have a serial number on the exhaust flange: 296634 and have some stamping next to the combustion chamber (5 of S) [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
There also is a 4 (or IIII) next to a combustion chamber, I think to link it to cylinder 4. but nothing much more to see.
Does anyone recognize the work done?
Thank you, Glauco
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14
on: August 19, 2026, 09:44:37 am
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Started by j-f - Last post by j-f
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Hi One question Can you measure in any way how long your clutch slips We usually slip around 3-4 tenths in 1st with the combi you have in clutch on a good track The weight balance in the car is often what does the most good If you put a 5kg lead bar in front of the front car it usually works well for 60 F so the weight balance makes the car go forward instead of up with the front wheels 90% of those here in Sweden who are fast have a lead battery in the spare wheel well then Good shock absorbers front and rear On my pro mod I have 120kg lead in the front If you were to look at US Pro Stock they have at least 20-40 kg in the front PPR Micke
Hi Micke, No idea how to measure clutch slippage? I stage using the stage brake, leave the clutch slightly engage to preload the gearbox a bit, put gaz and lift the clutch, smiling and hoping for the best  Barely anything in front of the car. Battery is on the passenger floor and even the fuel tank sits above the driver knee. I believe it was set up for show and go rather than chasing time. I will change that, Thanks, JF [ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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15
on: August 18, 2026, 21:26:57 pm
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Started by j-f - Last post by PPRMicke
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Hi One question Can you measure in any way how long your clutch slips We usually slip around 3-4 tenths in 1st with the combi you have in clutch on a good track The weight balance in the car is often what does the most good If you put a 5kg lead bar in front of the front car it usually works well for 60 F so the weight balance makes the car go forward instead of up with the front wheels 90% of those here in Sweden who are fast have a lead battery in the spare wheel well then Good shock absorbers front and rear On my pro mod I have 120kg lead in the front If you were to look at US Pro Stock they have at least 20-40 kg in the front PPR Micke
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16
on: August 18, 2026, 10:04:11 am
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Started by j-f - Last post by j-f
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Hi I don't know what you know about clutch adjustment Have you heard of breaking loose when adjusting the clutch to set a controlled slip Tools you need to have an input shaft from a gearbox with a sleeve (1/2 socket) that is welded to it A flywheel lock then a torque wrench How to do it You start by locking the flywheel then you insert the input shaft into the disk then you pull with the torque wrench in the opposite direction to the engine goes to the disk release the grip then you get a torque You should be 5-10% less than the maximum torque that the engine has How to get the pressure down in the pressure plate you shim between the flywheel and the pressure plate so you get what you want for the start to be optimal You always have slip in the start if you want to get a good 60 F /// PPR Micke
Hi Micke, Yes, it is done. Clutch is set at 250nm. Seems to work well that way. Kennedy stage2, exedy disc.
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17
on: August 18, 2026, 08:38:22 am
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Started by j-f - Last post by PPRMicke
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Hi I don't know what you know about clutch adjustment Have you heard of breaking loose when adjusting the clutch to set a controlled slip Tools you need to have an input shaft from a gearbox with a sleeve (1/2 socket) that is welded to it A flywheel lock then a torque wrench How to do it You start by locking the flywheel then you insert the input shaft into the disk then you pull with the torque wrench in the opposite direction to the engine goes to the disk release the grip then you get a torque You should be 5-10% less than the maximum torque that the engine has How to get the pressure down in the pressure plate you shim between the flywheel and the pressure plate so you get what you want for the start to be optimal You always have slip in the start if you want to get a good 60 F /// PPR Micke
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18
on: August 18, 2026, 06:43:51 am
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Started by j-f - Last post by richie
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The idea is more rpm/power helps clutch slip at hit and it wheelies less  As Micke mentioned you may need to add a little weight to front of car to help balance it better
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19
on: August 17, 2026, 20:36:10 pm
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Started by j-f - Last post by j-f
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Hi Richie,
Yes, I'm glad I got this car, that's a long time dream of me.
Front beam is balljoint, stock spindles, lowered on adjusters. I don't know my gear ratios. I cross the line a bit less than 7700rpm. I tried with the rev limiter at 7500 and I hit it just before the finish line. It got a spool and weddle straight cut gears, that's all I know. I have the dyno sheet of the rolling dyno, I'll post that later. Car should be less than 600kg. I can weight it a some friends farm, they got a balance for cereals, I don't know where else to weight it. I could ask the MOT station if we could weight front and back to have some more usefull data, but I don't know if they will do a car without registration. I installed a 2 steps for the last race at clastres and tried to launch at 5.000 and 5.500. 60ft were 1.54 and 1.51. It either spin the tires, do small wheelies or a bigger wheelie. I do have vids, I'll try to upload that.
Sorry to be as usefully acurate as a hammer in a matches building contest, but I want to learn and improve.
Ok cool  Here is my launch theory, and this is clutch dependant, you need launch rpm high enough so that as clutch pulls rpm down as it launches it stays above peak torque, usually 2 step around 6300-6800 rpm, you are trying to get clutch to slip a little ideally and it needs enough hp & rpm to do that  Never been to Clastres so no idea on what track prep is like, if it spins tyres then work on tyre pressures and when you go some better shocks adjusting them as well. Get a really good tyre gauge, needs to measure at least as small as 0.1psi increments, and you might need different pressure side to side to compensate for driver weight:o Clastres is a good prepped track. I tried between 0.9 and 1.1bars, I use a karting tyre gauge. If I launch at 6300 rpm, I think it will wheelie pretty hard. I read the article that John Connely from aircooled.net wrote a while back, it seems to be a good honest base line.
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20
on: August 17, 2026, 17:55:57 pm
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Started by j-f - Last post by richie
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Hi Richie,
Yes, I'm glad I got this car, that's a long time dream of me.
Front beam is balljoint, stock spindles, lowered on adjusters. I don't know my gear ratios. I cross the line a bit less than 7700rpm. I tried with the rev limiter at 7500 and I hit it just before the finish line. It got a spool and weddle straight cut gears, that's all I know. I have the dyno sheet of the rolling dyno, I'll post that later. Car should be less than 600kg. I can weight it a some friends farm, they got a balance for cereals, I don't know where else to weight it. I could ask the MOT station if we could weight front and back to have some more usefull data, but I don't know if they will do a car without registration. I installed a 2 steps for the last race at clastres and tried to launch at 5.000 and 5.500. 60ft were 1.54 and 1.51. It either spin the tires, do small wheelies or a bigger wheelie. I do have vids, I'll try to upload that.
Sorry to be as usefully acurate as a hammer in a matches building contest, but I want to learn and improve.
Ok cool  Here is my launch theory, and this is clutch dependant, you need launch rpm high enough so that as clutch pulls rpm down as it launches it stays above peak torque, usually 2 step around 6300-6800 rpm, you are trying to get clutch to slip a little ideally and it needs enough hp & rpm to do that  Never been to Clastres so no idea on what track prep is like, if it spins tyres then work on tyre pressures and when you go some better shocks adjusting them as well. Get a really good tyre gauge, needs to measure at least as small as 0.1psi increments, and you might need different pressure side to side to compensate for driver weight:o
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