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 41 
 on: May 26, 2025, 07:27:04 am 
Started by nicolas - Last post by richie
Congrats on the 12 Grin Cool 

So no rev limiter or shift light at all once you go to the 009? sounds like maybe you need someone watching you in burnout so you now wheels are spinning if you don't feel that in car? hopefully damage is not to bad, am sure you know a machinist that can fix it  Wink

cheers Richie 

 42 
 on: May 26, 2025, 06:05:30 am 
Started by nicolas - Last post by nicolas
Whow, congrats for that 12, and bummer for the engine damage  Embarrassed
Let me know if I can give you a hand.


thank you!

after this weekend. and contemplating about it some more. I came up with 2 options. 1. rebuild this engine. which would be the best option as it is a street engine and the car is ready to be driven more often on the street. 2. with a set of heads I have a 1914cc... a little bit more farfetched but maybe a nice small drag engine.

I need to get my head together a bit more and maybe next week have an idea that is clearer.

 43 
 on: May 25, 2025, 22:10:06 pm 
Started by leec - Last post by leec
Sold

 44 
 on: May 25, 2025, 21:19:10 pm 
Started by nicolas - Last post by j-f
Whow, congrats for that 12, and bummer for the engine damage  Embarrassed
Let me know if I can give you a hand.

 45 
 on: May 25, 2025, 09:51:13 am 
Started by Glauco - Last post by nicolas
I think you are correct.
I know of one SS header for type1 and that seems to be from the 90s or 00s. my type3 SS header also has both tubes detachable. that is from the early 2000s

 46 
 on: May 25, 2025, 09:48:23 am 
Started by nicolas - Last post by nicolas
an update on the race weekend at Clastres last weekend.

This may seem as a pittyful post and a cry for attention and compassion. But this is not Facebook, so it isn't. just a real view of how the weekend went from my point of view.

We arrived Friday and did tech inspection. the cage and improvements (belts, springs on the carbs,...) were met with a thumbs up from the inspector. My new bike helmet (certified but not good for autosport) and my overall I bought last year, was OK up to 12.00 but could be improved. He advices a Hans for better neck support. I will be looking into this, but suggestion and leads are appreciated.

Saturday I ran for the first time on slicks. I was really nervous and expected 13-14 seconds of looking at a blue sky.
that didn't happen. I barely did a burnout. the guy next to the track even came out to make me do it again. I did. I tried?
the first run was scary. I tried to feather it a bit. In my mind I have been on boats that are more stable. the car danced a bit. of course everyone who saw the run say it all looked pretty straight and basically good.

after talking to Stephan Speelman of the Muppet Racer he said I shouldn't feather it on slicks. he summed it up as slicks=putting your foot in it!

so more stress. in my head I went from yoga to herbal tea and sandalwood candles in the car all the way to a good well aimed lobotomy to cut out the nerves. the best option in the end was to calm down, take a deep breath and do it step by step and go for it. Which I did and that resulted in better and better times.

I even, for a few minutes thought I had run my first 12  Shocked I raced against Lena Kunold and although I didn't win, I think I held my ground. After the run a little oil dripped on her exhaust and when getting of the track I stopped just to let her know. At that moment she got a message that she had ran her first 11 (big congratulations), which she improved over the weekend. So that got me thinking that I wasn't THAT far behind... I could have run my first 12? it ended up being a 13,16... but still my best run, a better feeling about the car. good times are on the way (pun intended)!

So then something upset my zen state again and it was the car not starting. I had this before at Marl. and I diagnosed it as a bad coil then. but now again. strangely the car would start again sometimes, also without a clear indication. So I opted to look at it and try to see what the problem was. I tried to make the mad distributor run on a coil only without the box. as the box seemed suspect. In the end and a couple of hours later. I lend a 009 (with a type4 clamp wedged between two washers) and a msd coil. that ran good. checked and reset my timing and tried a last run of the day. it was getting late and last run calls were made.  only with one misshift from 2nd to 3rd on a run against the muppet Racer. But confident that I could race and the car working, albeit without 2step. 13,49 to end the day was Ok.

Sunday we had the plan to do as much runs as possible up to 12 -13 hours as we needed to get back in time.

the first run was around 9:45 against a 10 second Honda Civic. Righfully assuming I wasn't a match for him, I concentrated on my own run and everything felt good and pretty comfortable (but still a heartbeat of 10000), but good. Confident to make a few more passes like this.

It turned out to be the 12.79 run.  Grin the weekend was good. now I didn't need to do anything, just enjoy it and learn, learn, learn. seat time.

the races were delayed by a few oil downs and around noon we got to make another pass.
So I got in the box and did a burn out. that is what I thought I did anyway. in fact I didn't. add to that that I didn't know if I was or not, I kept my foot in it... to long, way too long,... the engine stalled and I couldn't start. I was pushed back out and I pushed the car back to the pits with some help. the smell was not good, the feeling even worse.

Now one week later the engine is out to get a idea of the damage done. I didn't take my foot of the clutch fast enough and the clutch slipped. so that got really hot. the bad news is that I did it too long and ended up seizing the trust bearing as well... a big bummer on what could have been a really really nice weekend.

this is a steep learning curve, and will continue to be. but that is OK. Now my main focus is how to get that 38mm scat gland nut loose and disassemble the engine. check the crank. hopefully save the case and crank. rebuild it with a new flywheel if necessary , balancing,...



I am learning the hard way, but you know what they say, happiness is a 12 second pass!!  Wink


 47 
 on: May 24, 2025, 19:02:30 pm 
Started by BossHogg76 - Last post by FredH17
Whoooo Rob, it’s been to long since i checked in here…..but what a progress you and the kid made!

All these carbon parts look like a million dollars buddy. Especially with the white paint. Just lovely!

Keep it up!!

 48 
 on: May 24, 2025, 18:45:59 pm 
Started by tpb_karl - Last post by tpb_karl
Small continuation!
Brushed off the worst of the rust and dirt from the forks with a wire brush.



Then I replaced the bushings for the spring plates. I cheated a bit here and didn’t paint either the cover or the spring plates... Time-saving or something..




Lots of grease, so hopefully I’ll avoid squeaks from the rear..



Of course, the other side was done in the same manner..



I’m dreaming of SAW spring plates and torsion covers with bronze bushings.. One day.
I’ve soaked a few parts to de-rust and make them nice for when it’s time to reassemble the brakes.


Then I tackled the gearbox. First up was replacing the boots.



Previously I’ve installed these dry, but this time I added a bit of Aviation Sealant at the outer end since the axle tube was so rusty and pitted.




Took the opportunity to replace the starter motor bushing now so I won’t have to do it when the car is in use..



The return spring for the clutch arm recently broke on my bus so I bought an extra one and replaced it on this gearbox as a precaution.



New mounts (STD) and a freshly painted gearbox support bar. (It got painted since it wasn’t terribly dirty, and it fit in the bucket with Evapo-Rust)


Removed the pedal cluster to replace the clutch cable. Soaked the coiled cable generously in chain oil so it will slide nicely in the tube.



With a new Bowden tube, now it’s just a matter of waiting for the gearbox.


However, I accidentally bought the wrong front gearbox mount.. So I need to order the right one...
In the meantime, I needed something else to keep myself entertained. So I pulled out the shift rod and replaced the bushing with a POM version from Washburn’s Metal in the States.



Had to modify it a bit to make it fit properly.


Went over the entire rod with red scuff pad and applied a thin layer of grease before it went back into the tunnel.



At the other end of the linkage, a bushing from Empi was installed, which is a bit stiffer than the original.
I think I’ll have to get the "Heavy Duty" version of the front gearbox mount  Grin


That was all! I'm just about to finish my thesis for my studies so I probably won’t be working on the Express until after the Bug Run event in early June.

Until then!

 49 
 on: May 24, 2025, 13:33:25 pm 
Started by Glauco - Last post by Glauco
I need some experts advice on S&S headers. I have 2 1-1/2 merged headers, but one has the 2 front tubes connected to the front collector and the other just has one. Once mounted they are exactly the same. Can anyone tell me witch came first?
My guess is the one with the single tube on the collector because all the newer once you can still buy today have 2 tubes connected.

Thanks
Glauco


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 50 
 on: May 23, 2025, 14:45:47 pm 
Started by restojohnny - Last post by restojohnny
New Lower Price

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